No inertia switch still same issue.

[geck0]

89 B2 4wd atx,

the inertia switch was taken out when I first got it for being melted at the terminals and being bad. I put in a manual toggle switch with a power on light.

It won't start some times and other times it will fine light lit right up those times when it won't start or dies while driving the light goes out and the fuel pumps cut off stalling out the truck. It has rebuilt disty I did thinkin that would fix it (red box standard parts) it has a new fuel relay and I have the old one it does the same thing. If cranking the light on the switch flickers dimmly and either goes out when the relay kicks with the key turn or stays super dim (sometimes) I'm at a lose and I have too much money in it to just chuck it. When it stall the light will go out it'll stall since the fuel pumps die and leave me stranded up to 30 min then after cranking just light up and fire right up. I'm so frustrated with this truck. I just want to drive it!!! I have wiring diagrams but don't know how to read them properly. Maybe a groudn issue but where? I dunno thats a guess

 

[n_grimm]

I can't recommend anything as unsafe as wiring the relay directly to the ignition switch.......but that's what I did when I had that problem.

 

[geck0]

same issue? after removing inertia switch? and its unsafe because you'd have to turn the key to shut it off or what?

 

[n_grimm]

Yeah my inertia switch was melted too. It was a while ago but I think the the wires to the front fuel pump were shorted together and caused the inertia switch to melt. As you see if you look at the following diagram one could bypass the fuel pump relay since the power to the relay is switched on and off by the ignition switch. The risk of course is that if you were in an accident, the pump would continue to run until the ignition switch is turned off. You could have a short in the wiring between the inertia switch and the fuel pump like I did.
http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/F/T/42301424.gif

 

[Earl43P]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tec...es/Diagrams_ElectronciEngControls2_9_1of3.JPG

The PCM (EEC) relay has to work for the fuel pump relay to work. Replace that.

You may also be having the classic ICM problem. It is mounted on the distributor and is known to fail when they heat up. Once it cools down, engine re-starts. Why would that make your fuel pump quit? Because the PCM has to see engine rotation to maintain the ground that it uses to power up the fuel pump relay. It uses the ICM PIP signal to know the engine is running.

 

[geck0]

So I've now replaced the PCM (EEC) relay, no fix. I ohm'd out the original ICM and the one that's been in there for the past year both check ok, I went to Advanced they tested both multiple times they both work fine. Now the B2 is dead in the water. It cranks but no start at all. The light on the switch blinks on with the key turn then goes out when you finally start cranking.... so frustrated

 

[shane96ranger]

My 91 Explorer had no power going to the relay. I realized this after replacing the pump. I also bypassed the inertia, and swapped the FP relay with the A/C relay to no avail. After doing some poking around with my meter, I found there was no source for the relay. So, I just found another source for switched 12 volts in the same power box, and rolled with it for over 10 years before I sold it.

 

[adsm08]

Do you have spark when it won't start?

The fuel pumps get a 5 second prime from the computer when the key is first turned on. After that the computer uses the pip signal from the pickup in the distributor to figure out how fast to run them. Engine dies, signal dies, fuel pumps get shut off.

The same signal is used to determine spark timing. It is run through the TFI and out to the computer. If you don't have spark that may point us in the right direction.

 

[geck0]

i've tried using the wiring diagrams and they get me an idea of what i'm looking for but I find that some of the color/stripe combos end up wrong and so tracking where the power source starts is a bit hard, it all seems original though.

 

[geck0]

I do get spark if i'm not mistaken almost positive but i'll double check here this week

 

[ds1919]

OP, I only read your first post. It was not easy to read because of your grammar, but I think I understand. Im mentioning this because I didnt feel like sorting out the rest of the posts.

Anyways, it sounds like your pumps are starving for ELECTRICITY, not gas. They are finicky, very finicky. So if you have anything else wired in with the fuel pump circuit, then they will not get the voltage/current that they need, and will overheat and cut out. Once they cool down they will work again. You would need to trace the circuit and find out if anyone added something to that circuit, and rewire as needed. Pumps may already be halfway toasted too (they go out easy this way).

 

[scooter]

Pink wire runs the fuel pump. (it has a stripe, but i cant remember its color).

Just TEMP run a wire from ing switch to fuel pump directly and see if that fixes it.

 

[geck0]

OP, I only read your first post. It was not easy to read because of your grammar, but I think I understand. Im mentioning this because I didnt feel like sorting out the rest of the posts.

Anyways, it sounds like your pumps are starving for ELECTRICITY, not gas. They are finicky, very finicky. So if you have anything else wired in with the fuel pump circuit, then they will not get the voltage/current that they need, and will overheat and cut out. Once they cool down they will work again. You would need to trace the circuit and find out if anyone added something to that circuit, and rewire as needed. Pumps may already be halfway toasted too (they go out easy this way).

Being that I stated that the inertia switch wiring isn't getting power sent through it, I was aware it wasn't gas. As for overheating if you read grammar or not, it does it at start up which has always ruled out overheating. Thanks though. I's bad with the grammar...