No dash, no stop/tail and no reverse lights

[spottedsquirl]

Good morning all, I have a 94 ranger 3.0 with a 03 5 speed trans. Before anyone says that new of a trans won't work right in that old of a truck, believe me I know all about it. I'm not the one that put it in.

Anyhow, first off no dash and stop/tail lights. Is there any hidden relays or fuses that I need to be aware of?

What do I need to do to get the backup lights to work?

Thanks for any help

 

[RonD]

An '03 "5 speed" could be a manual or automatic, M5OD or 5R44E

Which is it?

Manual will work fine for any year as long as it is from/for an 3.0l Vulcan engine
Reverse wiring is just a contact closure switch on drivers side of trans, toward the top, same on any manual trans, connector might be different

Automatics use a linkage switch for Reverse lights, '94 used NSS(plunger type switch), '03 used DTR sensor on the shift rod of trans

Reverse light switch gets power with key on
When trans is in Reverse the switch is closed and power is sent down the other wire to the Bulbs in the rear

No relays or other "modern" complications in a 1994 Ranger
Just wires, fuses and mechanical switches, nothing is hidden

For 1994 Ranger, in cab fuse panel #13 is 10amp fuse for dash lights
This fuse is powered by main light switch also goes thru Dimmer first
So if #13 fuse is OK then problem is most likely main light switch connection or dimmer, either could be worn out after 24 years, but test them


Also in cab fuse box #10, 15amp, is Brake light and park light fuse
If front Park lights work, and 3rd brake light on cab works, then I would look at the GROUND for the rear lights, brakes and tail lights, AND Reverse lights all share the same ground
Brown wires are the Parking light wires
Light Green the Brake lights
Black are the Ground wires
Park and Brake use same Dual Filament Bulb socket, so bad ground would disable both

Turn signals, in Rear, use separate bulb but share same Ground as Brake and Park lights

If trailer light wiring has been added check that first

Get volt meter and start to test voltages and Grounds

 

[spottedsquirl]

Thanks for the reply. The 03 trans is a manual. It's already installed. I did find and replaced a blown 10 amp fuse. The park lights now work. Still no dash lights but, I do notice the radio dim to night mode now so may need to replace light bulbs I'll check into that when I install my other radio. The brake lights still don't work and the wires at the brake switch feel hot after just a few seconds after the pedal is applied. I'll look into the ground wires next and go from there. Oh and when I can get under the truck I'll see if the backup light wires are plugged in.

 

[spottedsquirl]

Grounds and brake light bulbs are good. Checking brake switch now.

 

[RonD]

If Park lights in rear came on then Ground is most likely OK since the one socket for both brake and tail lights is the ground for both

Brake light switch is most likely the problem if 3rd Cab brake light also doesn't work and fuse is OK
If it is getting hot then fuse for it should blow, #10, 15amp, make sure someone hasn't put in a 20 or 25amp fuse

 

[spottedsquirl]

Okay, switch works and when I pull down it to make contact I do feel the wires heating up. So I have a dead short somewhere... ugh... I hate chasing wires.

 

[RonD]

You will need an OHM meter

Low ohms is a short to ground
Measure from wire to a good ground

Remove #10 Fuse first, it has 12volts all the time

Short will be in the wiring going OUT to the lights or other devices, more than just the lights use that switch

Light green/Red stripe wire comes from the fuse, it is OK or fuse would blow
Other light green wire with no stripe runs to:
Clutch switch
PCM(computer), pin2
ABS Module, pin11
3rd brake light(cab) <<< this fixture can get water inside causing corrosion and shorts
and finally rear brake lights << Trailer wiring!!!

Wire is the same Light green no stripe at all these devices

Check trailer wiring FIRST, very common place for shorts

 

[spottedsquirl]

Definitely a dead short somewhere. I unplugged the brake switch, l and r brake lights and third brake light. Checked continuity from the green wire at the brake switch to ground and there sure enough the meter tapped out. Now to figure out where it's grounding.

 

[spottedsquirl]

Forgot to mention, there's no trailer wiring. I'll check the other locations for the green wire

 

[spottedsquirl]

Okay I'm scratching my head on this one. I traced it down to the brake tail light harness by the lights. I unplugged that part from the main line and tested for ground on the light harness. I got ground lights are unplugged at the sockets. It's all factory wire. Just to make sure I plugged even thing else in and check the brake switch again and the wires didn't heat up like before. Guess I'll pull the light harness out and dig further.

 

[RonD]

Didn't quite understand what you did?

You unplugged the tail light harness at the back of the truck under the bed
You tried the brakes and 3rd brake light works and no heating up of the switch?

 

[spottedsquirl]

Yes, that's what I did... I'm so slow at times. All my lights where working fine minus the back up light. My brother took some self tapping screws and bolted on my tag to the sub rail on the bed (have no rear bumper). After all this time it occurred to me that he went straight through the harness. Palm to face. And the only wire it hit was the green one. Now repaired and working like it should. Got under my truck found the reverse light wasn't plugged in and now that's taken care of. All lights work as they should, even the dash lights. Thanks for the support and help today much appreciated

 

[RonD]

Good Work

"Let there be light(s)"