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robotzombies
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2015
- Messages
- 45
- City
- Seattle, WA
- Vehicle Year
- 1989
- Engine
- 2.9 V6
- Transmission
- Manual
- Total Lift
- 3"
- Tire Size
- 33"
Alright, here we go. 1989 Bronco II 2.9. Originally had the FM146, but recently did the M5OD swap. I also did the Explorer clutch swap, in which I also did the Explorer starter swap. I followed the posting in the forum for the FM146 to M5OD swap: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/fm146-to-m5od-and-complete-clutch-upgrade/#gsc.tab=0
After the swap, truck had been sitting for a while, but starting seemed to be fine. I've been through a couple iterations over the past week or two of what exactly happens, but currently, it's doing nothing when turning the key. Accessories all seem to work, just no click, no crank when turning to try to start. Here's what I've gone through so far:
- Battery - it's relatively new, like a year or so. Has been out of use, so could be the culprit. However, I have made sure it's charged, have verified it's getting 12+ volts, and have done a load test at home that says it's good. Still could be a bad battery, but everything keeps saying it's good.
- Cables - was getting like a 10 volt drop from terminals to cables. Replaced the clamps, replaced the battery to frame ground cable. Actually used the old battery to frame ground cable to make a new frame to block cable, since the old frame to block cable was trashed and the old battery to frame ground cable looked okay. After doing that, I was getting 12+ volts to all ground cables (checking at actual cable and lugs). I replaced the positive cable from starter relay to starter. Getting 12+ volts at all positive cables (have not checked the new cable I replaced, since I'm not getting any cranking at starter to do so).
- Starter solenoid - Note that since I did the Explorer starter swap, this solenoid may be redundant (fender mounted solenoid, original to the BII). Just replaced the starter solenoid last weekend. New Motorcraft relay. I seem to be getting 12+ volts at the battery terminal and the switch terminal. I think it was originally wired with the 12 gauge wire from relay to starter on the switch terminal, and the positive cable from relay to starter on the firewall side terminal. It was the same no crank situation. I also tried the positions mentioned in the transmission swap post, so 12 gauge wire on firewall side terminal, and power from relay to starter on the battery side terminal where the battery to relay cable is. Still nothing.
- Power distribution box - I checked all the fused in the PDB, and they are all getting 12+ volts. I assume since I'm getting accessories on, power is getting from the PDB to anywhere it's supposed to go. I haven't checked the cabin fuse box, as the fuse diagram doesn't seem to show any ignition, power, or charging related items.
- Starter - Pretty new, like within the last year or so. This is different than the original BII starter, which I think didn't have the starter solenoid on top, if I remember correctly. The Explorer starter has a solenoid on top, so maybe it's just too complicated with having a solenoid before a solenoid on the starter? The 12 gauge wire from the fender mounted solenoid goes down to the little blade for the S terminal at the starter. As noted above, I replaced the wire from the fender mounted solenoid to the starter, and that's on the power terminal of the starter solenoid. I haven't checked the starter yet, but I can get it to work if I bridge the terminals at the fender mounted solenoid, so I assume it's good. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
- Ignition cylinder - Also relatively new, the last year or so. I did check the voltage here, but I don't know if I did it correctly. I did voltage at the plug instead of at the actual ignition. I unplugged it, put the positive of the multimeter on the blade of the female end, then put the negative on bare metal ground. Still got 12+ volts, so I assume there's power to at least the clip that you plug the ignition into. Still could be a bad ignition, but when I turn it to the acc. position, everything seems to work like normal.
So any thoughts? This is driving me crazy. I'm trying to avoid replacing everything (battery, starter, ignition, on top of what I've already replaced), so was attempting to narrow it down. I can replace those other items, but it's better if I can avoid it.
After the swap, truck had been sitting for a while, but starting seemed to be fine. I've been through a couple iterations over the past week or two of what exactly happens, but currently, it's doing nothing when turning the key. Accessories all seem to work, just no click, no crank when turning to try to start. Here's what I've gone through so far:
- Battery - it's relatively new, like a year or so. Has been out of use, so could be the culprit. However, I have made sure it's charged, have verified it's getting 12+ volts, and have done a load test at home that says it's good. Still could be a bad battery, but everything keeps saying it's good.
- Cables - was getting like a 10 volt drop from terminals to cables. Replaced the clamps, replaced the battery to frame ground cable. Actually used the old battery to frame ground cable to make a new frame to block cable, since the old frame to block cable was trashed and the old battery to frame ground cable looked okay. After doing that, I was getting 12+ volts to all ground cables (checking at actual cable and lugs). I replaced the positive cable from starter relay to starter. Getting 12+ volts at all positive cables (have not checked the new cable I replaced, since I'm not getting any cranking at starter to do so).
- Starter solenoid - Note that since I did the Explorer starter swap, this solenoid may be redundant (fender mounted solenoid, original to the BII). Just replaced the starter solenoid last weekend. New Motorcraft relay. I seem to be getting 12+ volts at the battery terminal and the switch terminal. I think it was originally wired with the 12 gauge wire from relay to starter on the switch terminal, and the positive cable from relay to starter on the firewall side terminal. It was the same no crank situation. I also tried the positions mentioned in the transmission swap post, so 12 gauge wire on firewall side terminal, and power from relay to starter on the battery side terminal where the battery to relay cable is. Still nothing.
- Power distribution box - I checked all the fused in the PDB, and they are all getting 12+ volts. I assume since I'm getting accessories on, power is getting from the PDB to anywhere it's supposed to go. I haven't checked the cabin fuse box, as the fuse diagram doesn't seem to show any ignition, power, or charging related items.
- Starter - Pretty new, like within the last year or so. This is different than the original BII starter, which I think didn't have the starter solenoid on top, if I remember correctly. The Explorer starter has a solenoid on top, so maybe it's just too complicated with having a solenoid before a solenoid on the starter? The 12 gauge wire from the fender mounted solenoid goes down to the little blade for the S terminal at the starter. As noted above, I replaced the wire from the fender mounted solenoid to the starter, and that's on the power terminal of the starter solenoid. I haven't checked the starter yet, but I can get it to work if I bridge the terminals at the fender mounted solenoid, so I assume it's good. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
- Ignition cylinder - Also relatively new, the last year or so. I did check the voltage here, but I don't know if I did it correctly. I did voltage at the plug instead of at the actual ignition. I unplugged it, put the positive of the multimeter on the blade of the female end, then put the negative on bare metal ground. Still got 12+ volts, so I assume there's power to at least the clip that you plug the ignition into. Still could be a bad ignition, but when I turn it to the acc. position, everything seems to work like normal.
So any thoughts? This is driving me crazy. I'm trying to avoid replacing everything (battery, starter, ignition, on top of what I've already replaced), so was attempting to narrow it down. I can replace those other items, but it's better if I can avoid it.
