Newbie needs advise on engine replacement

[franknson]

OK, I just purchased a 1998 Ranger, supercab, 4x4, 5 speed, for my sons 1st vehicle. (VIN# 1FTZR15U4WPA81552, 123,000 miles on truck) The 3.0 in it is seized. Didnt check it out yet but Im guessing it was the Can sensor gear/oil punp that did it in. I have already lined up a replacement engine at a salvage yard. Its a bit pricey but it is from a 2000 ranger, 80k miles and still in the truck so I can hear it run.( VIN# 1FTYR11VXYTA21957) Im going to pick up a Clymers manual but I have questions about compatibility. Some expert advise would be appreciated. What if any in-compatibility issues might I run into? How would I know if either one is a flex fuel engine and does it matter? Does the A/C have to be discharged to remove engine or can I lay the compressor intact without disconnecting the hoses to the side and remove enginne? Any suggestions on what to look for or parts I should replace/service while the engine is out to make the truck road worthy would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance, FM

 

[Earl43P]

That 2000 IS a flex fuel. (V in the VIN instead of U).

Use any "different" parts from the 98 including the injectors (flex fuel's are larger) and you'll be fine.

Suggest you replace the oil pan gasket (clean the oil pickup while off) since they tend to squeeze out and leak. Hard, if not impossible to replace that gasket with the engine installed.

Do exactly what you proposed with the compressor, leave it intact. I'd also suggest you throw a new water pump on it while the compressor bracket is off (there is one bolt with bracket interference).

There are differences in the heads on the Flexfuel, but an old Babcock engine rebuilding article (can't find that link anymore, oops, here it is: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2179/rebuilding_the_ford_30l_v6.aspx) downplays that, so I think it'll run great.

Inspect/replace the clutch itself, but I'd ABSOLUTELY replace that slave cylinder while the engine is out. You'll need an $8 quick disconnect tool for that and have to bleed it (most likely) afterward. Our slaves are notoriously failure prone.

Might want to seal the transmission shift rail plugs or put "freeze plug" style plugs in it, but you'll have to lower the trans for that. Good opportunity to drain and refill its ATF (yes, ATF) and the same goes for the transfer case (remove the damper to find the drain), again with ATF. Might as well do the rear axle with some synthetic 75-140. While the motor is out, suck all the oil out of the front diff and refresh it too (no drain).

I can't think of much else, new thermostat (193) and common sense stuff, belts hoses as needed. Idler and tensioner pulleys can be problematic, so grab those spares. Most have luck with the Gatorback serp belt.

I'd also get rid of the T's in the heater hoses and run regular 5/8' hoses to the heater core. There's really no need to heat/cool the intake so just bypass the nipples on the intake manifold (called the Hot Water bypass mod).

Welcome to The Ranger Station!

I'm sure there will be an expert along shortly....

 

[franknson]

Thanks

Thanks Earl43P. Great info. By the way, got the truck home today and pulled out cam sensor drive. Guess what? The gear was worn with about 3-4 teeth chewed off. I guess that settles that question. What I dont understand is if the sensor stops turning I would think the engine would stop running before it seized. Looking at other options (less expensive) I found a '96 Aerostar engine with 101k for $250. Not sure but with a $100 engine gasket kit I would be saving $400 over the 2000 engine. That would go a long way in replacing the parts you mentioned and anything else that pops up once I get it running. Any opinions out there on the 96 block?

 

[JP02XLT]

OK heres is my take on this based off my previous similar situation. They wanted $800 + for a 3.0 Vulcan from a "Ranger" all with well over 75K miles, I bought a 3.0 Vulcan from a Taurus, 2005, with 10K miles for $250, They are much easier to find, I got mine on E-bay. You will need to change the Head gaskets on the FWD motor to the RWD style gaskets & switch your intake manifold & accessories & you will need a new set of head bolts. I did not have to switch the oil pan as the FWD model cleared the frame nicely. Only issue I had is the FWD dipstick & tube is shorter & with the Whipple it makes checking the oil only something you do when its cool, This would not be an issue without the Whipple SC. Like was mentioned on the AC, remove the condensor & carefullly lay everything aside, I pulled mine out & layed it over the passenger fender with several blankets under it & strapped it in place with bungies. Remove the hood, 1st thing & Pull the motor & trans together, its much easier for removal & install. As for differences in the motor Flex fuel vs Non, there are some differences in the heads, valve stem sizes & springs, Fuel injector sizes etc, But the FF motor would run just fine on either set of injectors & with the stock computer program. Also depending on what you get on the FWD motor you can sell some of the extras to help pay for the motor. I think I sold almost all my extra sensor, brackets & intake / exhasut manifolds & wound up with about $100 left in my new motor. I would look for any low mileage late year 3.0 Vulcan style motor for a replacement.

JP02XLT

 

[franknson]

Hmm, more food for thought. Thanks, but I think I want to stay away from the FWD car engines. Dont feel like swapping head gaskets, etc. Funny how a lot of the salvage yards say the '98 was a one year deal.

 

[franknson]

Starting to go crazy with my replacement options. I have possibly located a 2002 engine. Aside from changing injectors, manifolds and possibly oil pan will this one work? Thought I read somewhere that these had a dual profile cam. (whatever that means).

 

[Toms01PSD]

Where exactly are you located? Also, Mac posted this link which helped me find a cheap rear axle for my truck. www.car-parts.com Go here and type in the information for the vehicle and it will give you the price for whatever you're looking for and where it's located.

 

[franknson]

Thanks everyone for your input. It comes down to this. Tough finding an engine I can hear run before buying. Checked many salvage yards and want ads. My choices now are a 1997 Aerostar engine with supposedly 67k or a "very clean" 2000 Ranger engine with unknown mileage. Wont be able to hear either run. $375/$400 respectively. Thoughts?

 

[BlackBII]

Earl provided a good amount of information, good post!

Before you buy any motor, I would take the valve covers off and look for sludge, an easy way to tell if it was neglected or not.

Although, even a neglected 3.0 will run forever....

 

[franknson]

Thanks to all. Located a 2000 engine. Miles a little high but its still in truck and I can hear it run. Price is good also. JP02XLT says its easier to remove tranny and engine at same time. can anyone tell me why that is? Plan to get into it this week. Will review my Haynes manual but not sure if it references engine alone vs engine/tranny removal. Any thoughts are appreciated..

 

[JP02XLT]

Crawl under the truck & look at the room to work around the trans in the tunnel, You have to get to all the bolts on the back of the block that bolt the trans to the motor. It will become obvious real quick, not alot of room in there. I have pulled motors with trans & without, Its much easier to remove & install it all together.

JP02XLT

 

[franknson]

Makes sense. I am assuming the transfer case stays in the truck?

 

[nocigarette]

I am about to tackle the same project right know.....I have a line on a non flex fuel 3.0...The only thing is the truck is a flex fuel....Should this be a easy swap or should i wait and find a flex fuel model..

 

[cargs]

Makes sense. I am assuming the transfer case stays in the truck?

no you will have to remove it first. it is only bolted to the transmission tail housing, no other mounts.

good luck.