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newb ranger owner w/ coolant issues


dzrtracer88

Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2008
Messages
17
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
what up every one? I just bought a 93 ranger and after it ran great for two months, I've hit my first issue. I've got a lot of coolant coming out of my radiator cap. So I replaced the radiator cap and it's still happening. I know that I need to replace my water pump cause I have water residue around the weep hole so I'll be doing that tomorrow.
I also have sporatic spikes in temperature too. It'll be fine sometimes and then spike to almost past normal on the gauge then drop back to normal.
Any suggestions for this newb?
 
Well why your changing the water pumb I would also suggest replacing the T-stat. Its super cheap and will keep everything in line. Also how are your hoses looking? Are they cracked or looking nasty? Might be a good time to swap those out as well. As for why you are having the coolant comming out. I am not quite sure why that is happening. Perhaps when you flush and fill your coolant system you will find something that is causing a blockage?

You also got the correct pressure radiator cap right? I think its 16 lbs of pressure or something
 
the hoses all look good and the radiator is brand new. I also think that it is not a stock ranger radiator. It mounts to the stock position but the fan shround sticks below the bottom of the radiator. Is there a way to check to see if its the right radiator? And my cap is rated at 13 psi. Is that right?
 
If it's blowing water overoard through the Rad cap that's a major warning side.

It COULD simply be running hot due to a faulty T-stat or a clogged radiator

OR it could be a harbinger of major engine work... a compression leak to the water jacket that is pressurizing the cooling system with combustion gasses....

I know I'm just full of potential bad news...

I'm not saying you should worry, but be REAL suspicious.

Last january I was expecting to have to replace my engine because it was foaming the coolant... as it turned out of all the tubes in my two-row Explorer radiator exactly 11 of them weren't completely obstructed.


AD
 
Well thanks for the advice I suppose LOL :/.

Well let's hope I don't have to do that. So here's my plan. I'm gonna change water pump and t stat tomorrow and see what happens.
Also, if this were to be a bigger problem, is there something to test the water pressure with? After I replace this parts I'd like to see if the pressure spikes or is high. Any thoughts?
 
I had the same problem with my 94, ( New Rad, thermostate, hoses, water pump, & pressure test, ) with no help. Then I found out that these 4.0 engines use the heater core as a bypass when the t-stat is closed and found mine to be partially plugged. I tried flushing it and it would help for a couple days then back to the samething, so I replaced the core and the truck has run cool now for 2 years with no issues.

The heater core for your truck is EASY to replace ( about 20 minuts ) and mine cost me. around $21.00 at AZ.

Hope you get it sorted out.
 
Last edited:
for less than $30 you can get a heater core (Honcho en Mexico)
from Advanced/Kragen/Shucks/Checker (depending on where you live)
that comes with a limited lifetime warantee.

The one I bought last december 14th developed a pinhole leak
and I wound up replacing it (again) saturday.
Lifetime warantees (when honored) are great.

AD
 
well I am not sure about your truck, but I am pretty sure my system is rated for 16 psi. So a 13 psi cap seems low to me.
 
what up every one? I just bought a 93 ranger and after it ran great for two months, I've hit my first issue. I've got a lot of coolant coming out of my radiator cap. So I replaced the radiator cap and it's still happening. I know that I need to replace my water pump cause I have water residue around the weep hole so I'll be doing that tomorrow.
I also have sporatic spikes in temperature too. It'll be fine sometimes and then spike to almost past normal on the gauge then drop back to normal.
Any suggestions for this newb?

What I read here is the coolant tank isn't hooked up properly. You have overflow and normal temp.. You havn't experienced high temp...
As coolant heats it expands and overflows back into the resevour. Then when the engine cools the shrinking coolant vacuums the same amount back into the engine. This leakage would only be visable during the warming time of the engine.
Other than that, the rise on the guage to above "normal" happens to all engines as they come to a stop after having some time moving.
Big Jim
 
I had the same problem with my 94, ( New Rad, thermostate, hoses, water pump, & pressure test, ) with no help. Then I found out that these 4.0 engines use the heater core as a bypass when the t-stat is closed and found mine to be partially plugged. I tried flushing it and it would help for a couple days then back to the samething, so I replaced the core and the truck has run cool now for 2 years with no issues.

The heater core for your truck is EASY to replace ( about 20 minuts ) and mine cost me. around $21.00 at AZ.

Hope you get it sorted out.

Keep spreading the word on the heater core, it will help a lot of early 4.0 owners. Good evening.
289-tiger-
 
alright, so heres the lo down

temps still spiking. not past m in normal on the gauge.

still leaking out the radiator cap. when ever i drive somewhere i look at it and its definately leaking out the radiator cap.

and the only overflow tube that is hooked up is one from just below the radiator cap to the overflow tank.

um so i guess now i check up on the pressure a stock ranger radiator cap is supposed to be... ten a compression leakdown test?

how do you do that?
 
alright, so heres the lo down

temps still spiking. not past m in normal on the gauge.

still leaking out the radiator cap. when ever i drive somewhere i look at it and its definately leaking out the radiator cap.

and the only overflow tube that is hooked up is one from just below the radiator cap to the overflow tank.

um so i guess now i check up on the pressure a stock ranger radiator cap is supposed to be... ten a compression leakdown test?

how do you do that?

Going to the "M" or even past the "L" is NORMAL for an engine!! As the amount of fuel being burned is NOT constant the amount of heat is also NOT constant. The thermostat REACTS to the amount of heat.. so the guage should be in almost constant movement except when the engine is at constant fuel use for a while! The engine isn't too hot untill it is puking.

ANY coolant getting past the cap should go thru the little tube and into the coolant resevoir.. If you have coolant coming out the cap, your problem is the cap is NOT installed correctly OR the tube has a crack in it.. EVEN the wrong "pound" cap will pass the coolant INTO the tank if it is installed correctly..

You don't need a leakdown test until you get the coolant to stop coming from where ever it is and INTO the resevoir.
Big JIm:nono:
 
well as of right now the radiator cap seems to be doing it.

i got a 16 psi cap and zip tied the overflow hose on both ends to ensure a good seal so it can deliver and vacuum from the overflow effectively. so far. so good.

i owe a big thanks to everyone on here. even if it wasnt the right advice, having some people to bounce ideas off of kept me motivated to fix this shit. thanks a ton
 

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