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New tools you've bought recently?


I broke off a driver in my brand new brushless impact...can't get this thing out to save my life
wrap the impact in a towel to protect the casing and put it in a vice, chuck pointing upwards (or if you feel especially adventurous, have the wife hold it) and take a hammer and a punch and put the punch against what is left of the chuck and give it a few whacks. it might be just wedged and the punch may cause it to unwedge.

AJ
 
Not a tool, but I've started using acetone and atf instead of penetrant. It works 1000 times better and 100 times faster.

I made a batch for this last round of work I did. Upper control arms & wheel bearing assembly. I started squirting bolts the night before I took anything off. Everything came off easy peasy.
 
what mixture ratio? 50/50 ?

I heard of this before and was curious myself. A quick search says 50/50.

I'm just about out of Kryoil... about $120 for a gallon.

This would be a cheap alternative for sure. I might even have what I need in the garage to try and small batch.
 
Acetone & ATF is more commonly known as "Ed's Red" and IMO it is no more useful than simply pouring ATF on stuff. ATF & acetone don't mix, for one thing, it's like oil & water. Secondly, acetone evaporates almost immediately.

Some guys swear by it but I have tried it and the acetone flashes off so fast that it seems pointless. I think you are better off using ATF & mineral spirits or something like that which can soak in a bit before it evaporates. One other recipe I found was equal parts ATF, kerosene, mineral spirits & acetone but I still think the acetone is a waste.
 
In pregaming for when I go to do the fluid changes on the Escape, I picked up a fluid extractor and a pump for 1 quart bottles.

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I bought one of harbor farts hand pump fluid deals awhile back... Suuuuper unimpressed lol.

"Fits most quart and gallon jugs"


I had both.


It fit nothing.


Their claim that it moves 1oz of fluid per pump was also definitely bogus in my case as well.. I musta pumped 112 times to empty my first quart into the axle lol.
 
Acetone & ATF is more commonly known as "Ed's Red" and IMO it is no more useful than simply pouring ATF on stuff. ATF & acetone don't mix, for one thing, it's like oil & water. Secondly, acetone evaporates almost immediately.

Some guys swear by it but I have tried it and the acetone flashes off so fast that it seems pointless. I think you are better off using ATF & mineral spirits or something like that which can soak in a bit before it evaporates. One other recipe I found was equal parts ATF, kerosene, mineral spirits & acetone but I still think the acetone is a waste.

That's the point. I THINK that's why it works so good. No scientist here, but I think the rapid evaporation of the acetone if what "drives" the atf in. I could be totally wrong, of course.
 
I heard of this before and was curious myself. A quick search says 50/50.

I'm just about out of Kryoil... about $120 for a gallon.

This would be a cheap alternative for sure. I might even have what I need in the garage to try and small batch.

I told someone yesterday to throw their Kroil in the trash. Acetone and atf is that good. Just got to make sure you shake it real good RIGHT before you put it on.
 
I bought one of harbor farts hand pump fluid deals awhile back... Suuuuper unimpressed lol.

"Fits most quart and gallon jugs"


I had both.


It fit nothing.


Their claim that it moves 1oz of fluid per pump was also definitely bogus in my case as well.. I musta pumped 112 times to empty my first quart into the axle lol.

Looking at the "cap" size on it, it might fit a Mercon bottle. They have an odd sized lid. I'm pretty sure it won't fit the standard cap opening on a gear oil or engine oil bottle. I guess I'll find out.
 
TOPDON AD500 scanner. I borrowed my sons and like it so much that I just bought my own. Paid $109. This thing monitors live data, screen shots it and emails it, all from the device, saves it as a file as well. Plus if you have a code, it links straight to a google search on the device. It does transmission codes, ABS codes, SRS codes and can put your brake system in maintenance mode for things like electronic parking brake service. Works on like 92 different makes and models like Lamborghini, Porsche, Mercedes. But I only need it for Fords, lol.
 
That's the point. I THINK that's why it works so good. No scientist here, but I think the rapid evaporation of the acetone if what "drives" the atf in. I could be totally wrong, of course.

I am not a scientist either but that doesn't make any sense. That WOULD be plausible, IF, the two parts combined to make a thinner final product. I believe that's how PB Blaster and other penetrating oils work. The product starts out very thin and wicks its way into small spaces, and the lighter solvents evaporate, leaving the heavier oils in place which help lubricate the fastener as it is removed. ATF & acetone do not do that.

Personally I am not a believer in penetrating oils in the first place. I have never found that it "frees up a stuck fastener" or whatever their BS claim is. The only things that solve that problem are a bigger wrench, a more powerful impact tool, heat, sometimes extreme cold AND heat, or maybe acids/electrolysis/other rust removing chemicals. Penetrating oils are very helpful AFTER you have the fastener broke free to lubricate the threads.

Try this: Find two identical, rusted solid, stuck fasteners. Soak one of them in penetrating oil and let it sit as long as you like. Then remove them both with your tool of choice without adding any more oil. My experience has always been that you will find no oil on the threads of either bolt.

That said I have certainly tried a bunch of them and will continue to do so - Ed's Red is snake oil in my mind. PB Blaster smells terrible, great for stuck rings though. I have admittedly not ever tried Kroil. Knock'er Loose sucks. My favorite was Torq CB that Kimball Midwest sells but it's really expensive. So I have actually been using garage door lube that Overhead Door sells... only because I acquired about 8 cans of it for free... it is a decent spray lube, smells OK and is really good for mounting tires.
 
I think kroil works as well if not better then everything ive used over my lifetime. It's thin and it creeps... probably not as well as their claims. I know it wouldn't free up my torsion bars in the control arms... and i used it several times over a week on those parts.
 
Kroil is great, but expensive. On this 01 Ranger, I used some PB Blaster multipurpose lubricant (blue label, because thats what I had on hand) on the front suspension and it worked much better than anticipated.
 
I like Shrans extreme cold & heat method.
a couple times I center drilled a broken bolt and froze it from the inside with CRC Freeze Off
other times just sprayed the stud/bolt with good results.
 
Try this: Find two identical, rusted solid, stuck fasteners. Soak one of them in penetrating oil and let it sit as long as you like. Then remove them both with your tool of choice without adding any more oil. My experience has always been that you will find no oil on the threads of either bolt.

I 100% agree on penetrant. I've noticed the same thing. Pull the bolt out, threads are dry. But not so with the atf and acetone. Threads have been wet every time. And yes my explanation doesn't really make any sense. It was the only thing I could think of.
 

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