New to trucks- 1994 Ranger

[badger]

Hi there!

I just bought my first truck last weekend from a friend of a friend... it is a 1994 Ranger, 2.3l 5-speed with over 240,000 miles.

I've never been a truck guy and used to drive a 2010 VW GTi that I bought new and was my first love. Then I moved down to Louisiana after finishing up grad school, got into motorcycles and track racing, and my life has gotten a complete overhaul! I sold the car to pay the bike off and bought the Ranger with some spare change. I really like the truck so far, and it makes me smile how plucky and down-to-earth honest it is! It has a good pull off the line and I'm in love with the clunky transmission and firm clutch (coming from a car, that is probably to be expected).

It isn't perfect, but it is more than enough for my short-term goals... move back to Wisconsin at around Christmas for more grad school, and track day hauling for next year. I plan on doing preventative maintenance and hopefully keep her around for a long time.

A very mechanically-inclined buddy of mine pulled up some codes on her today and these are what popped up:

Memory code: 332- EGR flow insufficient
Key On Engine Off: 332 again
Key On, Engine Running:
326- Exhaust pressure transmitter circuit voltage lower than expected.
538- Insufficient RPM change during dynamic response OR goose test KOER OR invalid cylinder balance test due to cylinder identification sensor failure
138- Cold start injector flow insufficient during KOER

He also said that the idle sounds really rough. We're planning on replacing the spark plug wires because they are the original, and maybe that would solve the issue (?)

Anything else that you chaps can think of?

If this is anything similar to bike forums, I'm sure you guys will want pictures, so here are some:

I'm calling her Olga... for how butch and rugged she is! I rode up 13 hours to Kansas City in freezing weather and drove her back down. Only because I felt I could have more confidence in a deal if it was with people I knew.

All in pursuit of this! I hope Olga will continue to be a part of this endeavor for a long time...

Cheers!

PS: Never buying a new vehicle again (maybe a motorcycle)... it feels like there is still tons of life left in my truck

 

[deankelly]

They are good trucks. Welcome aboard and good luck.

 

[wizkid00104]

Just dealt with rough idle on my 94 2.3L. The culprit was the idle air control valve. I got one from Napa for about $50 as cleaning the old one did not work.

Plugs and wires are a good idea.

I had the EGR problem with my fiance's Grand Vitara. I remove the EGR valve and cleaned it. That solved the problem, but I am not sure if that would help on a Ranger. I'd venture to say that the exhaust pressure code also has to do with the EGR. May be best to just replace it and see if it helps. It shouldn't be very expensive.

Welcome to TRS!

 

[badger]

Thank you for the welcome, guys.

wizkid... my thinking is the same, that both the exhaust codes are probably related. The friend asked me to not worry about the EGR error, but if it's a simple fix and will get rid of the CEL, I might just go ahead and try cleaning it out. How hard of a job is it? And, can I just take it off and clean it, or do I need to do anything else before I pull it off?

Also, I couldn't find a service manual for my year... would I just buy a Haynes manual off the internet?

Thank you!

 

[wizkid00104]

Never cleaned EGR on a Ranger to be honest. Suzuki Grand Vitara was easy enough. Remove the valve, soak with gumout, use a small wire brush to work the deposits loose (I used a battery terminal brush), soak in lubricant like WD-40 or PB Blaster, rinse with gumout, air dry, and re-install. Move the valve seat back and forth throughout the process to un gunk it.

I have a Chilton manual for mine which helps some. A factory manual would be nice, but I've never looked for one. This website can be far more valuable than any manual. I barely ever open mine unless I need bolt torques.

 

[badger]

Never cleaned EGR on a Ranger to be honest. Suzuki Grand Vitara was easy enough. Remove the valve, soak with gumout, use a small wire brush to work the deposits loose (I used a battery terminal brush), soak in lubricant like WD-40 or PB Blaster, rinse with gumout, air dry, and re-install. Move the valve seat back and forth throughout the process to un gunk it.

I have a Chilton manual for mine which helps some. A factory manual would be nice, but I've never looked for one. This website can be far more valuable than any manual. I barely ever open mine unless I need bolt torques.

That helps, thank you. I'll see what I can do with the valve on my own.

Still being new to working on vehicles, I'd love to get me hands on some torque specs. I'm planning on doing an oil change and switch to full synthetic. Do you have a torque number for the oil pan drain bolt by any chance? Sorry if I needed to look elsewhere.

Thanks again!

 

[wizkid00104]

I want to say its 14-20 ft lb. I don't measure that one usually. I use a standard 3/8" ratchet and snug it down. Nothing too extreme.

This is the IACV on my Ranger. The EGR on the Suzuki looked very similar. This is the old one that is very dirty.



Here is a comparison of the old one cleaned on the right and the new one on the left.



Notice that you can actually tell there are internals when the valve is cleaned.

Hopefully this will put a better visual to the description I gave earlier. If the EGR doesn't fix the problem. I bet the IACV will. My dad just replaced his IACV on his 99 Ranger yesterday. He was getting a code for low EGR flow and it was because of the bad idle.

 

[badger]

Sweet! Many thanks for the pictures. The IACV will be my next step after the EGR valve cleaning does not fix it.
And thank you for the torque number as well. I might just go snug with a wrench.

 

[XLTsplash]

Good looking Ranger. I love the Purple color Ford had in 94.