New to TRS

[rumblecloud]

Cool! thanks for the pics.
Wheels are def stock "deer hoof" 14s. The 17s you're thinking of may have a clearance issue up front during a tight turn depending on the rubber you choose. I run stock 15s with 31x10.5 and a cheap washer leveling kit. Depends on what kind of look you want I guess.
Someone did a little custom work on the front end with the lights and grill.
It's an XLT. No rust on the outside of the tailgate surprises me.
As RobbieD said, looks solid.
We do tend to respond pretty quickly when we get a new victi---I mean member.

 

[AutoRnD]

I've actually made a list recently. I need quite a bit of the small things, buttons and switches. My main focus is Thursday, that's when I'll be able to afford to actually lock in on a manual. Also want to learn how to replace all my fluids. Brake fluid, oil, antifreeze etc.

As for the look I suppose I wouldn't mind it a little lower. Can only say after I obtain the wheel style I want. I want to try and restore the current paint job if possible and if I can pull it off I might have the courage to try and paint it black which is the end goal.

 

[Josh B]

The 93/94 (I am not totally certain of the exact dates) "Hoofs" had two small holes between each hoof that the later ones didn't have and they are called 20 hole hoofs

 

[RobbieD]

The 93/94 (I am not totally certain of the exact dates) "Hoofs" had two small holes between each hoof that the later ones didn't have and they are called 20 hole hoofs

Based on the Ford sales brochures the "deer prints" started with the '93 models. Best as I can determine 1995 models could have either version, then '96 and later had the "no little holes" second version.

Fist version: Second version:

That's today's Fun Ranger Fact!

 

[AutoRnD]

I definitely have the second version.

Before I try swapping them out I'll try and restore their shine. I'm a sucker for original parts regardless of the changes I want to make to my Ranger, I still have respect for the original model.

Imagining them with a little shine on them is kinda nice
"Deer hooves, hmm"

 

[rumblecloud]

My '94 is definitely stock as I am the original owner and mine are the 20-hole hoofs.

Thanks for those fun facts.

 

[AutoRnD]

Was going to make a new thread for this but I thought I'd ask you guys first...

This morning a few minutes after I switched on the heat full blast I could hear a loud clicking sound under the hood that I've yet to hear before. When I popped the hood some rubber piping was shaking pretty roughly with each click.

(This one)

(Or two?)

I turned my truck off and the click persisted. I gave it a bit and it went away. I turned it on again and when I put the heat on it came back. It doesnt come on with the engine, it needs the heat to be turned on for it to happen. Is it some sort of over heating?

I tried to research best I could(Not very good) and I read that it could be a thermostat or radiator cap problem. I bought a new radiator cap back when I got the truck because I thought the one it came with was hideous but I only installed it earlier today after that clicking.(Still wasn't comfortable touching anything a few days after I first got the truck)

Unfortunately that wasn't the problem.

Anyone go through this? Want to drive my truck so bad but my inexperience has me paranoid.

 

[DILLARD000]

Was going to make a new thread for this....
...after I switched on the heat full blast I could hear a loud clicking
...rubber piping was shaking pretty roughly with each click.
...doesnt come on with the engin...needs the heat to be turned on

Yep, best to start your own thread for a topic like this.
Your pics are of the 2 HeaterHoses & HeaterControlValve\HCV;
this is the coolant loop that runs thru the cab HeaterCoil.
HCV is controlled by the smaller vacuum hose (Vacuum=Clos\NoVacuum=Open);
this vac hose often comes loose, so check that its snug on the Valves dashpot.
Best to drain+flush CoolantSystem & renew Coolant+ThermoStat+RadiatorCap every 33kMiles\4Yrs;
inspect+renew as needed Hoses+Clamps+Belts+Pump+HeaterControlValve+Radiator+PlasticFittings.

 

[RobbieD]

^^^ Right on.

AutoRnD: Are you checking the coolant (antifreeze) level in the radiator? Only when the engine's cold, of course.

Low coolant, as in pockets of air, can cause a loudish gurgling noise and the hoses to move around.

First thing, make sure that you're not running the coolant low.

 

[Roert42]

I’ve used a lot of various Haynes manuals. They are more like remove and replace manuals. With vehicle specs. Not really any troubleshooting help. So once you figure out what part is the issue, they will tell you how to get to it, and how to install the new one.

Leave a lot to be desired. I assume the chiltons are the same. The nice thing is they know must people reading the book are working in their driveway with basic hand tools

The factory manuals will give you step by step instructions on diagnosing issues. They also assume you have access to a lift and factory service tools.

I’ve got a complete set of factory service manuals for my 2011 Four books in total. Plus an aftermarket manual just on the 5R55E transmission. The stack is at least 6” thick. The whole stack probably cost almost $600.

 

[AutoRnD]

I’ve used a lot of various Haynes manuals. They are more like remove and replace manuals. With vehicle specs. Not really any troubleshooting help. So once you figure out what part is the issue, they will tell you how to get to it, and how to install the new one.

Locked in and ordered a Haynes manual for now. So excited, can't wait.

The factory manuals will give you step by step instructions on diagnosing issues. They also assume you have access to a lift and factory service tools.

Hadn't even thought of that but that makes a lot of sense.

 

[AutoRnD]

Got it!

 

[RobbieD]

Congratulations!

I have the same manual.

But, mine sure is greasy and beat up.

Wanna trade?

 

[AutoRnD]

Congratulations!

I have the same manual.

But, mine sure is greasy and beat up.

Wanna trade?

Why not?
It's probably more useful in your hands anyway. Lol.