New to Rangers got some questions...

[SD95turbo]

Hey there,
Just bought my first ranger the other day. Its a 1988 Ranger XLT supercab 4x4 with the 2.9 and 5spd. I spent today replacing all 3 of the fuel pumps to get her running. It had been sitting for the last 6 years and the tanks had turned to varnish. A few questions I have are whats it take to make the fuel gauge work? Will 30x9.5x15's fit on stock rims without rubbing? How hard is it to change a clutch in these things mines a lil slippery? And lastly what the easiest way to lift these things 2in?
Thanks for the help in advance.
Josh

 

[gribly]

The tires will fit, but will rub at full lock with swaybars removed and out wheeling - which I assume you'll be doing. Clutch ain't bad to replace, but the tranny with the transfer case will be heavy - use a tranny jack, or if on a solid concrete surface - ratchet strap it to a floor jack and be cautious as hell. Be warned though, it's something only to be done in a pinch, I've done it that way in a parking lot before. For a simple 2" lift, coil spacers, adjustable camber bushings, and longer rear shackles will do you good. Plus an alignment after.

 

[gribly]

As for the fuel tank, I could throw you some guesses, but there's a few dealer techs and fantastic mechanics that hang out here who will give you better advice.

 

[adsm08]

Well if the gauge doesn't work after replacing the tank pump(s) (you got a twin tanker?) then you need to check the wiring.

Get yourself some wiring books for it and check resistance across the gauge's pins at the connector behind the cluster. If all that is good on both tanks (there will be a certain resistance value for a certain amount of fuel) then your gauge is shot and you need a new cluster.

 

[Sunk]

With the tranny out, slit the body seam in the tunnel in a few places and pound it flat with a hammer. It'll make putting the tranny back in a lot easier.

 

[SD95turbo]

(you got a twin tanker?)

You bet got two tanks and a selector switch on the dash....not common?

 

[Captain Ledd]

You bet got two tanks and a selector switch on the dash....not common?

Easier to find than some options, but yes you really don't see them very often.

 

[adsm08]

You bet got two tanks and a selector switch on the dash....not common?

Less than 5% of production had that option.

 

[SD95turbo]

What kind of mileage do these 2.9's get?

 

[djk]

I'm runnin 30's with a stock 1.5 lift and getting an average of 18 mpg. But i haven't really done any work to try to improve it. That's pretty sweet that you have two gas tanks though! Gotta get me one of dem

 

[wrecking-crew]

If you plan on keeping the truck you should do a 4.0 clutch swap (see tech section for details). Taking out the trans shouldn't be too hard but it becomes a bitch to put it back in. As for the gauge, did you replace the intank pumps only or the whole assembly? Fuel mileage wise, I get a combined 18-20 mpg on 235-75R15.

 

[SD95turbo]

If you plan on keeping the truck you should do a 4.0 clutch swap (see tech section for details). Taking out the trans shouldn't be too hard but it becomes a bitch to put it back in. As for the gauge, did you replace the intank pumps only or the whole assembly? Fuel mileage wise, I get a combined 18-20 mpg on 235-75R15.

The 4.0 swap looks like a heck of an idea but don't have the time to get all that together so it'll get just an oem clutch. I replaced both intake pumps and the high pressure pump all 3 were dead. And for now I'm running 225 70 15's so I'm hopin for the 20+ range mpg wise, but am building a flat bed for it at the moment and planing on lifting it enough to fit 30x9.5x15's under it.

 

[gribly]

I don't give a crap if you *think* it looks hard to do. A 4.0 clutch swap is pretty much a bolt in affair. Do it, and be happier. If you have the time to change your own clutch, you have the time to use better components. You'll have smoother engagement and more overall grab when all is said and done. Correct me if I am wrong, but you just need the 4.0 flywheel and clutch, right guys?

 

[superds]

I don't give a crap if you *think* it looks hard to do. A 4.0 clutch swap is pretty much a bolt in affair. Do it, and be happier. If you have the time to change your own clutch, you have the time to use better components. You'll have smoother engagement and more overall grab when all is said and done. Correct me if I am wrong, but you just need the 4.0 flywheel and clutch, right guys?

I agree, the 4.0 clutch is awesome. It's super easy if you have any mechanical aptitude, which I hope the OP would if he's willing to change a clutch.

In addition to the flywheel, which you can get at Rockauto.com for pretty cheap, around $40 IIRC, you'll need a 4.0 length starter cable (around $10 at local auto parts store, they changed the starter style from 2.9 to 4.0) and a 4.0 manual transmission starter (can be had for around $50 for a reman on ebay). Luckily, the price difference between a 2.9 and 4.0 clutch is pretty minimal so you could probably do the whole change for an extra $100 over a standard clutch job.

I did a 4.0 clutch swap this winter and I'm happy I did, it's much better than the 2.9 clutch.

Ps. make sure you replace the slave cylinder, it'd suck for it to go out later and have to take out the transmission again.

 

[bobbywalter]

i can say this.....if it costs a 100 more to do the 4.0 clutch swap.....i would just do a 4.0 swap.