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New to me Truck.. Now on side of highway


4x40OHV

Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2024
Messages
8
City
Arizona
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Automatic
Hello, I’m new to the forum and have been using it the last few weeks with my new to me Ranger! Lots of great info on here and I really appreciate the knowledge everyone shares. But now I have my own issue I haven’t solved by browsing.

And no my trucks not still on the side of highway, it’s in a random parking lot for the next day (unless I get it fixed) before I tow it home, but you clicked to come help!



Driving my new to me 2000 4.0 OHV 4x4 auto I started smelling coolant on highway. Before exiting on next exit truck died completely loosing all power, not like running out of gas but loosing all electrical power also. no crank no start upon stopping.



I pop the hood and a heater hose has a pinhole and is spraying coolant all over the large bus connector on the passenger side of firewall and also all over plus wires/coil and back side of engine.



I dry everything off as best as I can and still crank no start but after about 30-45 minutes it starts but timing sounds off and misfiring like crazy.



I pull all plugs wires off and coil thinking maybe it grounds by mounting to manifold and get it all cleaned up but still same issue.



At this point it’s idling rough but not as harsh as before but timing still seems off. It dies immediately when shifting to drive.



I swapped to a new coil and same symptoms.



Various forums pointed me to the cam position sensor. I installed a new one and cleaned out the idle air control it seemed to run better but still dying when shifting into gear.



Pulling wires while running it seems to run better with #4 removed but it got late last night and it’s still sitting in a parking lot away from my house. But that’s where I’m at.



I’m going to grab new plugs and head to the truck but I’m stumped from here especially with it dying when shifting into gear. i really am leaning towards something shorting in the connector or something along those lines. Initially did open it up and spray and clean it out with electrical cleaner but it was full of grime. The design putting that right by the heater hoses is crazy to me without having it sealed off IMO.



I read somewhere it could be trans repeated with the pressure plate or something along those lines but I’m not transmission savvy.



Other info may or may not be relevant. I scanned codes and found no faults no codes and no CEL at all. So when I get there today I’m going to check if it comes on when Key is turned on with ignition off. Also no fuses are visibly damaged. Trans has slipped back into first from second in few moments after acceleration from a stop 3-4 times in the few weeks I have owned it. Also it seems to not think it’s in park when attempting to start a couple times until I juggle the shifter. ( shifter was loose and I tightened it upon purchase)



sorry for the long post just trying to get everything out that may be a factor as im new to the ranger platform.
 
Not sure if the parts you are putting on are helping, or it's just drying out from the coolant and slowly running better from that. It may run fine tomorrow if the coolant dries out. A little wd40 in various places will help get rid of the coolant.
 
Thanks. I’m back up here now and as a side note the CEL does not come on at all when I turn the key on. It also shows no codes when I scan it but it does read the emissions monitors for readiness? What would cause the system to not register fault codes?
 
Running out of gas (with a full tank) will show no fault codes, ask me how I know....

Fault codes have different levels, as do fault code readers. Often the readers employed read only high level faults. May be the reader's ability, not necessarily all of your trucks real & latest faults. You must dig deeper grasshopper.

Re-cycling the ECM and all of the electrical harness connections at the firewall and ECM itself (with the battery disconnected) should always be done when a project is new to me. Good chance to visibly inspect and clean and cycle the connection which will then be renewed. Which is just another reason to drive a parked vehicle. Not allowing simple corrosion to have it's way with electrical connections. You don't actually need to disconnect the connector, just rock it corner to corner.

Hope you can get her back better than ever!
 

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