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New motor need opinions on break in oil


1998XLT

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
14
Vehicle Year
1998
Transmission
Automatic
The title says it all. I'm rebuilding a 3.0l for my truck cause mine decided to take a dump. I've bought a re-ring kit from sealed power off summit racing along with new motorcraft spark plugs and new oil. the guys at autozone told me to just add an additive of zinc. Tell me what you guys think.
 
My 3.0 went out on me (through a rod bearing) and I ended up just replacing the bottom end with another vulcan of less mileage. What I have always liked doing is getting a lighter weight oil like 5w30 and adding the Lucas Super Heavy Duty Oil Treatment. I feel like it sort of balances it out. Then towards the end of the oil life cycle, I ran seafoam through the crack case, intake and gas tank, put cheap 10w30 in. Then after a couple hundred miles of that, I'd do the final oil change and put in the synthetic calling it good until the next oil change. The only thing you'd really have to do is take out your spark plugs and give them a good cleaning because the seafoam will gunk them up as everything flushes through your system Mine came out great and was serving me well up until the transmission went out. From there I began my swap..

I wish you luck.
 
When breaking in an engine I like the idea of keeping loose metal particles away from bearings and such.

At first start up following the above post, grab a strong magnet from a computer hard drive and duct tape to the oil filter.

Magnet and oil filter will trap all metallic particles.

On oil changes remove and cut open filter to see what is trapped.

Ray
 
Zinc is really not needed with a roller cam, just the old flat tappets ones. Always can do a Google to see why zinc is used or not used. The quantity got drop because of the effects on the converters.
Dave
 
This is just my opinion only. Others may agree or disagree but it is still just my opinion.

There is really no such thing as a break-in oil any more. When you assemble the engine be sure to use good assembly lube. Especially on the bearing, lifters, cam, etc. Once assembled use a good oil in the pan. I would not use synthetic but a good brand oil of your choice. Once the engine start, the oil will circulate through the motor and wash the assembly lube with it. It is the combination of the assembly lube and the oil that makes a "break-in" oil.
 
Gibson for new engine run in, sold be summit and many other speed shops, most overhaul shops use it as well as many racers, I use a oil pre pressurizer that primes the system by plugging into where the oil pressure switch is and injects oil in the system before start up I think summit has them, also pour oil in the filter and let soak in then refill it again then install
 

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