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[Ford hater]

Hi iam Ford hater the reason I say that is because I'm hating my Ford at this particular moment

 

[Ford hater]

Have a 97 Ford ranger 4 wheel drive standard transmission 4.0 place the clutch had a crank no start problem which turned into a no crank no start just a solenoid click under the dash I bypass the clutch switch I checked all the connections I have no power from ignition switch to the fender Mount solenoid can somebody please help me

 

[Curious Hound]

What's your battery voltage? How clean and tight are your battery connections?

 

[Ford hater]

What's your battery voltage? How clean and tight are your battery connections?

New battery new cables all connections are good

 

[Curious Hound]

Good.

What's your battery voltage?

"Just a solenoid click" usually indicates a voltage problem.

 

[Ford hater]

12.39 The click is inside the cab by the steering column I have no power from the ignition switch to the solenoid on the fender well

 

[Jazzer]

We still need to know your battery voltage. Do you have a multimeter?

A well charged battery might indicate that you have a problem in the ignition switch/ column/ wiring.

Have you tried jumping the posts on the solenoid (truck in neutral)?

 

[Ford hater]

12.4 yes it starts from the solenoid I have no power from the ignition switch to the solenoid on the fender well

 

[Ford hater]

We still need to know your battery voltage. Do you have a multimeter?

A well charged battery might indicate that you have a problem in the ignition switch/ column/ wiring.

Have you tried jumping the posts on the solenoid (truck in neutral)?

 

[Ford hater]

Just the battery is 12.4 volts I jumped it from the sunlight on the fender and it starts I have no power from the ignition switch to the solenoid on the fender

 

[Jazzer]

I don’t have a wiring diagram for your truck but someone should come along later with one.

Meanwhile you can take the bottom cover off the steering column and check for obvious wiring problems. Check for 12+V on the wire that activates the solenoid, or 12+V anywhere in there near the ignition switch.

 

[Curious Hound]

I have some diagrams I can check when I get home from work later this evening. Does your truck have PATS (passive antitheft system)? If so, do you see any abnormal Security system indicators when trying to start the truck? Security system is the only thing that would have a relay under the dash that might click when trying to start the truck. Otherwise, its just ignition switch, clutch switch (or neutral switch on an automatic) then out to the starter relay on the fender in the engine bay.

12.4volts is good. Thank you

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Does it have a tilt wheel? I’ve seen the slider on tilt wheels in particular that activates the actual ignition switch under the dash (the key just moves this slider) break. Causes all sorts of mayhem when that happens. Not a bad idea to make sure the key actually moves the ignition switch.

 

[Curious Hound]

Just looked. I don't have any diagrams with PATS. So I'm not sure how that is integrated, if it is.

 

[gaz]

@Ford hater

(1) 12.39 and 12.4v are too low; the 1st thing I do with a new battery is fully charge it off the vehicle, then measure the output. If it's not 12.64 or higher, expect starting issues.

This has happened to me with both new and used batteries.

(2) The next area I would persecute are the engine bay grounds.