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New Gears and some questions


Woods-Rider

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2007
Messages
264
Age
38
City
Oregon
Vehicle Year
2004
Transmission
Automatic
So im looking to buy some 4.88 gears for my '04 4.0L and just want to make sure i get all the right stuff and have some quick questions. My D35 is not reverse cut, correct? any suggestion on brands? do i need anything else besides the ring and pinion like a master install kit (front and or rear?) or any special tools? genuine gear looks pretty cheap, is there a reason i should stay away from them? does it matter if i have the same brand for the front and rear? sorry for all the questions but i dont know much and plan on doing this over thanksgiving weekend and want to make sure i have everything i need.
 
Yo,
Actually i belive the D35 is reverse cut, because the pinion enters above the center of the gears. I went with yukon when i bought my gears. I have not heard anything against genuine, but i have heard good things about yukons. I think TRS fab here has a good selection.
 
Yo,
Actually i belive the D35 is reverse cut, because the pinion enters above the center of the gears. I went with yukon when i bought my gears. I have not heard anything against genuine, but i have heard good things about yukons. I think TRS fab here has a good selection.
No, it is standard rotation on IFS, reverse on TTB.
 
No, '98 & up D35 (IFS) uses standard-cut gears.

I've seen several examples of Genuine gears not setting up properly (poor contact patterns), I would stick with Precision Gear, Yukon, US Gear, etc.

As for wondering if you need special tools, this is one of those jobs that if you have to ask...
I would STRONGLY suggest having this done by a shop. Yes, NUMEROUS special tools are needed (many that are costly, too). But even more important than that, you'll need plenty of expertise (and patience) in doing this also.
Gears have to be precisely aligned to within a couple thousandths of an inch, and proper preload put on the bearings, or everything may self-destruct within a matter of a few hundred miles. Several tries (assembling & disassembling it using different shims) are often needed before you get it right. It's not likely you'll be able to get two axles properly set up over a holiday weekend if this will be your 1st time doing gear jobs (even with all the needed tools).
 
I will have a guy there for part of it who has done it once before. its just hard to justify spending more money on labor than on parts. ive heard its like $300 per axle roughly for labor and i just dont have that kind of money. around $600 is what i have for the job including parts.
 
it will go faster if you have an adjustable shim pack for the carrier bearings and a crush sleeve eliminator kit.that way backlash will be adjustable and you won't need to worry about over torquing the crush sleeve and having to use another until its right.i do agree with junkie though,your buddy could wind up ruining your expensive gear set if its set up wrong.even if its only off a little it can score the teeth so it will make noise even when you put it in the right spot.unless you are really sure your buddy has enough experience to do it right the first time you are gambling on several hundred dollars in parts.if you don't have a dial indicator or inch pound torque wrench don't do it no matter what he says.
 
Need lots of special tools. Clamshell tool for carrier/pinion bearing removal, press for bearing installation, dial indicator for backlash, large impact gun or very very large breaker bar and pinion flange holding device for pinion nut and crushing crush sleeve, inch pound torque wrench for pinion preload and a 1/2 torque wrench for torqueing everything else.
I will have a guy there for part of it who has done it once before. its just hard to justify spending more money on labor than on parts. ive heard its like $300 per axle roughly for labor and i just dont have that kind of money. around $600 is what i have for the job including parts.

Thats even pretty cheap ^^^^^

Definetly buy a master overhaul kit for both ends, need sealant, locktight, marking compound and something to clean parts with.

If you have never done gears before, it will take quite a while to figure out how read a pattern and what to do to change it. Make sure you have some kind of good diff set-up guide. Randy's ring and pinion is where I get my yukon stuff, diff tools and they have a good diff book too. They have knowledgable staff too. Yukon kits have nice shim packs, marking compound, locktight, and a small install booklet. Genuine gears and kits seem cheap and incomplete. Yukon gears have a tendancy to humm a bit though, but are very strong and have better than OE life.

Also, this would be a very good time to add lockers or limited slips. You'll have to do everything over again for most types.
 
FYI

Ive had several vehecles towed to my shop because people were trying to set-up thier own gears or lockers and gave up. Everyone has to start somewhere though and it shouldnt be on someone elses rig. I don't know how they do it, but I hear of people getting away with throwing gears in without measuring a thing all the time. ????
 
vrruumm, you say you have a shop. what would you say an average cost of installing gears including parts is for my axles? if i can get it done for $630 i can afford that but if its gonna be more most places then i dont really have a choice.
 
I think $250-300 is probably about the going rate for a R&P install nowadays.

You should be able to save some more $$$ if you take just the housings to a shop though (axleshafts removed).
 
thats a good idea. ill call around and see what it'll cost me with just the housings.
 
ok, now i have a question. im also going to be getting 4.56's into my 94 ranger. it has a dana 35, reverse cut, obviously. the question is about the installation kits. is there a difference between regular and reverse cut gear installation kits? thanks in advance guys
 
Std and Rev doesn't really matter when it comes to install kits, you just need the correct kit for your D35 TTB axle (will have the proper shims & seals, and the roller bearing for the right-side axleshaft if it's a Master kit).
 

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