New ford ranger owner need help

[Johnnyboiranger22]

Hi all i just purchased a 89 ranger xlt with the 2.3 i got for 3oobucks and unfornatelt the original owner passed away and the truck sat for 5 + years, i got it to my house by towing it, charged a battery put it in and what do you know it started right up. Now i ovidously need yo do a tune up on it, also the truck never heated to halfway mark and the radiotor kept needing to get topped off and ive noticed the oil got milky, so im thinking a cracked head or head gasket the truck never overheated though it just never got up to temp. Also when put into gear truck ran like a tractor and turned off, what could that be? Sorry for the low knowledge only car i owned was a 2017 jetta and im wanting to teach myself how to work on cars and restore this as i love rangers.

 

[adsm08]

Sounds like it's time for you to learn to do head gaskets.

Welcome to TRS, it is a great place to come if you want to learn.

I personally would suggest starting by coming ebay and Amazon for the factory books for your truck, and then go hit up Harbor Freight during a parking lot sale and just buy one of everything.

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

Sounds like it's time for you to learn to do head gaskets.

Welcome to TRS, it is a great place to come if you want to learn.

I personally would suggest starting by coming ebay and Amazon for the factory books for your truck, and then go hit up Harbor Freight during a parking lot sale and just buy one of everything.

Okay thanks! Should i replace the head while im at it or is there somethinf i can do to clean it or stregthen it?, also I hear there a radiator upgrade i could do?

 

[RonD]

Yes, welcome to TRS

Did the oil level go up?
Like coolant/water would do if it was flowing in

Or did it just get milky?
Could have been alot of condensation in an engine that sat that long

There is a simple and free test for head gasket or cracked head issue
Do the Glove test, read here: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173979&highlight=Glove+Test

On your 2.3l unplug both Coil Packs for the Glove test
And you only need to remove 1 spark plug, from each cylinder, if you want to ID where the leak is, assuming there is one.

You have a 2.3l SOHC Lima engine, used in Rangers from 1983 to 1997
2001 and up Rangers got 2.3l DOHC Duratec engine, no relation to Lima 2.3l, so just a heads up when doing searches for 2.3l Ranger engines

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

Yes, welcome to TRS

Did the oil level go up?
Like coolant/water would do if it was flowing in

Or did it just get milky?
Could have been alot of condensation in an engine that sat that long

There is a simple and free test for head gasket or cracked head issue

Do the Glove test, read here: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=173979&highlight=Glove+Test

On your 2.3l unplug both Coil Packs for the Glove test
And you only need to remove 1 spark plug, from each cylinder, if you want to ID where the leak is, assuming there is one.

You have a 2.3l SOHC Lima engine, used in Rangers from 1983 to 1997
2001 and up Rangers got 2.3l DOHC Duratec engine, no relation to Lima 2.3l, so just a heads up when doing searches for 2.3l Ranger engines

Now that you mentioned it the oil pressure gauge was relitively high

 

[RonD]

I was referring to dipstick level in oil pan

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

I was referring to dipstick level in oil pan

Yes it did.

 

[RonD]

Then you have a blown head gasket, maybe cracked head but probably not

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

Then you have a blown head gasket, maybe cracked head but probably not[/QUOTE

Okay Thanks should i get the head resurfaced since it will already be apart? defiantly doing tune up, what else should i do?

 

[RonD]

Yes, head should go to machine shop to be cleaned, pressure tested and surfaced.
Pressure test will tell if head is cracked or a valve is bad

If you buy a head gasket kit it will come with new valve guide seals, take them with the head to the machine shop, machine shop may install these for free, included in cost, or for a small charge.

Clean black surface and piston tops, make sure you can still see some cross hatch on cylinder walls and there are no gouges, run finger around cylinder walls, if you can "see" it but not "feel" it then it doesn't matter
Gouges are caused by failing rings, rings move around on the piston to prevent gouging, if one gets stuck then it needs to be fixed, engine rebuild

New timing belt, unless you know one on there has been change in the last 40k
Look at water pump, impeller blades can get worn down, compare yours to a new one at parts store or just look on line at what new water pump blades look like.

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

Yes, head should go to machine shop to be cleaned, pressure tested and surfaced.
Pressure test will tell if head is cracked or a valve is bad

If you buy a head gasket kit it will come with new valve guide seals, take them with the head to the machine shop, machine shop may install these for free, included in cost, or for a small charge.

Clean black surface and piston tops, make sure you can still see some cross hatch on cylinder walls and there are no gouges, run finger around cylinder walls, if you can "see" it but not "feel" it then it doesn't matter
Gouges are caused by failing rings, rings move around on the piston to prevent gouging, if one gets stuck then it needs to be fixed, engine rebuild

New timing belt, unless you know one on there has been change in the last 40k
Look at water pump, impeller blades can get worn down, compare yours to a new one at parts store or just look on line at what new water pump blades look like.

Okay perfect thanks! my dad is coming Sunday to fix it along with tune up and all the tubes replaced. I hear there a bigger or stronger radiator to drop in the Ranger do you have any knowledge on that?

 

[tomw]

The 2.3/2.5 does not need any sort of 'heavy duty' or oversized radiator. In some cases, it will not produce enough heat to keep the cab warm in winter.(unless the airflow across the radiator is blocked on one with a leaky thermostat) Even with A/C it doesn't need a larger radiator.
If the impeller on the water pump has eroded blades, then the cooling system was likely not maintained well. The impeller metal can corrode over time, but is unlikely to actually wear away. If you do remove the water pump, inspect the cooling jacket area behind it, around the cylinders, for sediment type deposits. If you can, use a garden hose and nozzle to wash out as much as you can.
tom

 

[Johnnyboiranger22]

The 2.3/2.5 does not need any sort of 'heavy duty' or oversized radiator. In some cases, it will not produce enough heat to keep the cab warm in winter.(unless the airflow across the radiator is blocked on one with a leaky thermostat) Even with A/C it doesn't need a larger radiator.
If the impeller on the water pump has eroded blades, then the cooling system was likely not maintained well. The impeller metal can corrode over time, but is unlikely to actually wear away. If you do remove the water pump, inspect the cooling jacket area behind it, around the cylinders, for sediment type deposits. If you can, use a garden hose and nozzle to wash out as much as you can.
tom

Okay thanks sounds good! will see how much the blades cost if it cheap enough might as well change it while its off, got the gasket set for 50$ along with the 8 plugs and wires for tune up, guy at advance auto was shocked to hear that it had 8 plugs lol.