New dude with a question.

[the_gunslinger]

New dude with a question. After several google searches for problems, I kept coming across this site with some active pages.

I bought me a 94 Ranger Splash with a 3.0L a couple of weeks ago and a couple of problems have crept up. I had an overheating problem and took care of that by back flushing the radiator and heater core (talk about nasty!), but now I have some other problems that have showed their ugly faces.

I think I have a vaccum leak. While driving, when the motor is under a load (acceleration or going uphill), the air blows through the vents like I just the air on.

Another problem is in the A/C. It works fine for about 10 minutes, it keeps cycling on and off every few seconds after that. Sometimes, the relief valve kicks in and blows oily freon everywhere and makes a big mess. Then the A/C doesn't work anymore.

Hopefully someone can fill me in on some of these things.

 

[adsm08]

Now do you mean that the temp changes or the air routing position changes? A vac leak should drop it to defrost or mix, but a temp problem is something else.

Now for the A/C. If the relief valve is blowing off you either have a pressure issue and need to fix it and replace the compressor because those valves don't generally like to be reused after they blow off. The cycling is low charge, related to your relief valve blowing off.

Finally, where are you that you are using the AC in February?

 

[the_gunslinger]

The direction of air doesn't change really if the switch is off it will blow out of the fents. Kisd of at a low setting.

So is the pressure issue elsewhere or could it be related to the compressor?

Houston TX. I didn't really need it, I was just testing to see if it worked. Trying to catch these problems before summer.

Side note: I am the second owner on this truck. It was very well maintained (well... except the cooling system) and most of this truck is all original Ford stamped parts at 120k.

 

[the_gunslinger]

Well, she overheated again on the way home today. I bit the bullet and ordered a whole new cooling system.

 

[adsm08]

Over pressure can come from a lot of places. Usually too much charge or a restriction somewhere. Its possible the drier blew up and it plugging things up.

Postin' from teh Galaxy

 

[LIMA BEAN]

Well, she overheated again on the way home today. I bit the bullet and ordered a whole new cooling system.

"Whole new cooling system" for an overheat? Dang thats like running up the stairs and getting a lung transplant cause you're out of breath.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Pull the water pump and with high pressure water blast as much of the crap out of the block as possible the rust settles in the low spots in the water jacket and makes babies. lift the water hoses up above the hood and fill the heater core with bleach water mix half and half and let it sit overnight then blast it both ways with water. If it springs a leak it was bad in the first place. It is important to get the crap out of the block it acts like insulation and don`t allow heat to transfer into the coolant. Take a wet/dry shop vac and suck the coolant out of the heater core first before you add the bleach unless your putting in a new heater core also. Its possible the A/C has a plugged expansion device or filter/drier and popping the high pressure relief valve, lack of air across the coil is another possibility it sounds like the compressor is still working. The first thing would be test for acid if no acid present hook a set of guages up and see what is happening with pressures and temps. Normally if it goes low pressure it will turn off the compressor clutch to protect it. Get the engine cooling system working correct first then see how the A/C works make sure the duct and evap coil is clean and the doors are working correct, on some systems when you have the defrost on it will turn on the A/C also to remove moisture from the cab. Just thinking about it you may want to change the fan clutch while your at it just for giggles.

 

[the_gunslinger]

ok, so after hours upon hours of fighting with this, I noticed something that I should have seen a long time ago. the fan is the opposite rotation than what it should be. Looking front of the vehicle, the motor rotates clockwise.

After days of internet searching and calling parts stores and dealers, I decided to just convert to an electric fan. The dealer wanted $150 for an 8 blade clutch fan (I have a 9 blade on here now BTW). I picked up an e-fan and wiring kit for $65. Seems to make sense to me.

This truck is a daily driver (DD) and I sit in traffic for 2 hours a day and don't have time to be nickel and dimeing this problem. That is why I just threw everything at it at once. And I'm glad I did. The whole cooling system was all rusted out and clogged up.

The e-fan will be going in today and I'm going to be stumped if this doesn't work. Back flushed the block and cleared everything out. I know the flow is good and everything else is new.

As far as the A/C not working right, I think it has to do with the radiator getting hot and blowing hot air the wrong way through the radiator and into the condenser.

We shall see today!!

Oh! and after replacing all of the cooling system, my heater works fine now!!

"Whole new cooling system" for an overheat? Dang thats like running up the stairs and getting a lung transplant cause you're out of breath."

That is one of the funniest responses I have seen in a long time!!

 

[the_gunslinger]

OK! So, I changed out the clutch fan for an electric fan yesterday. While I was in there I changed the shocks and spark plugs. Ran her around today and she is smooth as silk!! A/C and everything works without any problems! Now the real test will be sitting in traffic for 2 hours!

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Cool your gonna probably need to add some refrigerant when it gets hot enough outside to balance the charge. Also when the A/C clutch enguages it wouldnt hurt to have the fan turn on at the same time. Put a relay on the A/C clutch that turns on the fan when the clutch is enguaged. Does the A/C turn on when you have the defrost running. If it does what it does is remove moisture from the cab when warming up the cab you want the fan running whenever the cooling is on for proper heat transfer out of the evaporator to keep from popping the high pressure relief.

 

[the_gunslinger]

The relay/wiring kit that I installed has a wire that taps into the A/C to come on when the compressor switches on. Score one for me!! Lol! I recharged the A/C when I was still troubleshooting all of this mess, but I'm going to hit it again now that everything is working right.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

It should be just fine you should wait until it gets hot out to check the system above 70 degrees outside check the delta-T. Measure the temp of the air coming out the vents and the temp of the air going in You want to see a difference of 20 degrees minimum when its real hot out.