new dreambeams,now camber way out

[turbojack]

just installed a new set of dreambeams,got em used ( 3mo old) now my camber way out,looks different on each side(that is diff degree`s on left versus right) ---when I take it into the shop for alignment,will they be able to correct this w/off the shelf stuff,or do I have to use dreambeam only "stuff" to correct this? also,I couldnt hook up the swaybar,bracket wouldnt fit the new beams,is there a part in the "kit" that I`m missing,or whats the fix.---sure do like the the "drop" look,now I have to istall the rear belltech shackle kit I have----

 

[Heavyfire14]

 

[doorgunner]

Keep us posted on the fix to the problem.....I want to get a set of 3" drop beams myself....(cutting a coil off each spring lowered mine 3", but it rides like a go-cart since I "lost" the 3 inches of travel by shortening the coil springs...aaaarrrgggghhhh)

 

[JoshT]

Jack please get us some pics. Installing Dream beams shouldn't affect the camber much if any. Way they are designed they physically space the spindles up 3 inches but the suspension geometry stays the same. There are a few things that could have happened but pics will help figure out what. You said you bought used, what exactly did you buy? Was it the beams alone, did they have adjustment slugs installed already or did you use your factory ones? Do you have drop springs (doesn't sound like it)? If the beams came from someone with more/less drop than you have and you are using their camber slugs that may be your problem.

Pics will also help us figure out why your sway bar brackets aren't fitting, not aware ofa any extra parts that would make them fit. To my knowledge the stock brackets should bolt right on with the new beams. On that note how exactly were they not fitting? Would like to try to help you out before you get bent over by a shop, but to do so we need more info and if possible pics (as they say a picture is worth a thousand words).

FWIW I'm putting the exact same beams in my 86 Ranger, along with 95-97 spindles. I bought them used from another member on here. That member also had drop springs, which I also bought but don't know if I'll be running yet. If I don't I'll likely have the same problem you have now. These beams also had what appeared to be factory sway bar brackets bolted on just like they would be on a factory beam. I'll be reinstalling them with the beam though the sway bar I have mounts behind the engine and to the radius arms. I want them there in case I decide I need a larger bar, won't have to pull everything apart to install those brackets.

 

[stmitch]

Lowering any ranger 3 inches in the front will cause camber issues. It should be correctible with some camber eccentrics which can be purchased form any local parts store, or the dealership. Your alignment shop may have some as well.

 

[doorgunner]

Lowering any ranger 3 inches in the front will cause camber issues. It should be correctible with some camber eccentrics which can be purchased form any local parts store, or the dealership. Your alignment shop may have some as well.

YEP....i bought the adjustable bushings & got the caster/camber close enuff myself to get the truck to a trusty alignment shop after i cut a loop off each coil spring (definately a no-no in the long run)....they said 3 inches would be about the max drop for a Ranger....even if I went with dropped beams.

(THERE'S A WHOLE THREAD DEDICATED TO CAMBER ECCENTRI BUSHINGS/ETC IN THE "2WD SUSPENSION FORUM")

 

[mp3deviant721]

I've seen i-beam trucks with 4" in the front. You should be fine up to 5". The way I figure it, the drop beams shouldn't affect camber too much. It's the springs that will get you.

 

[doorgunner]

I've seen i-beam trucks with 4" in the front. You should be fine up to 5". The way I figure it, the drop beams shouldn't affect camber too much. It's the springs that will get you.

yep.....and rattle your teeth on potholes if you cut em down

 

[RangerSVT]

)....they said 3 inches would be about the max drop for a Ranger....even if I went with dropped beams.

This shop doesn't know enough about the TIB Ford suspension... I had about 6 inches of drop on my 96 ranger, I had the dream beams, which I bought brand new, and a pair of 2" drop coils that I bought used from someone somewhere I can't remember, but I know he had em in a V8 ranger, so they settled a little more than normal. As for the swaybar, you need to remove your original bracket off your original beams and put them on your drop beams (This is the way they are designed), as this is what I had to do when I bought my beams new. The eccentrics (or alignment cams) can be had up to 3.5* and can get them from Carquest, O'reilly's, Advance Auto, and I believe NAPA might carry them as well, with Carquest being the cheapest, at around $14 each IIRC. JoshT bought my beams and coils, and I'm sure he will have great satisfaction with them...
Here is just the 3" dream beams with factory coils up front, Flip out back, ranger sitting on 22's...

Here is the drop beams and 2" drop coils up front, flip and 3" blocks out back on 20's...

SVT

 

[JoshT]

This shop doesn't know enough about the TIB Ford suspension...

Yep, I agree completely with that. With these beams installed your suspension (beams, radius arms, springs, etc.) should be in exactly the same position, assuming that's the only thing you changed. The change, where your drop comes from, is that the steering knuckle (and mounting points on the beam) is physically moved three inches higher in relation to the rest of the truck. You should still be able to align the truck with stock alignment cams. Likely scenarios in your case are (1) the PO of the beams had more drop and his eccentrics are still in the beams, or (2) when you installed your eccentrics in the beams the position was not kept. For the first if the PO had adjustable cams the alignment shop should be able to align with them, if not they may need to be changed for adjustable ones. If the second they should be able to align it no problem with what's there.

The eccentrics (or alignment cams) can be had up to 3.5* and can get them from Carquest, O'reilly's, Advance Auto, and I believe NAPA might carry them as well, with Carquest being the cheapest, at around $14 each IIRC.

As mentioned previously there is a thread in another forum about this. I'll throw out a little more info though. There are actually two types of eccentrics available for these. There are adjustable and non adjustable. With an adjustable if you buy say a 3 degree adjustable it's two piece and can be adjusted for any degree from +3 to -3, IIRC it can also adjust caster to some extent. Non-adjustable are just that, say you get a 3 degree of this type, it can only be used as a +3 or -3 degree, nothing in between without affecting caster. Install an adequate range (biggest available) adjustable before getting an alignment and no other eccentrics should be needed, ever.They are a bit more expensive though, I think I paid around $60 for both 3.5 adjustable for first gen that I won't be using now. If you choose to use the cheaper ones you'll have to get it put on an alignment machine first and they will either tell you what size you need or do it for you.

IIRC you can get up to 4 degree adjustable from NAPA (only for the 89-97 beams), the part number for them is floating around here somewhere. If I have to replace the bushings that SVT put in these beams that's what I'm putting in.

JoshT bought my beams and coils, and I'm sure he will have great satisfaction with them...

Got them cleaned, removed the flaking powder coat, and shot them with some Semi-Gloss Black Rustoleum. I know it's cheap stuff, but I used their Professional line hoping it might hold up a little better. This isn't a show truck it will get hit, chipped and scratched, this way when it needs touched up all I gotta do is buy a can at home depot and spray away. Still don't know if I'll be using the springs, going to wait and see how it looks with stock once the V8 is in and settled.

Now if the damn rain will go away they'll be getting installed. Got one beam and radius arm in place last night once it cooled off enough to work on it. Just need to install the other side, and springs then I'll be able to get it sitting on 4 wheels again. So...

Rain, rain go away, come again when I'm at work some day...

Doubt it'll work but it was worth a shot.

 

[RangerSVT]

Actually, those double adjustables are not needed. The single adjustables will still adjust for caster and camber...Think of a circle is 360 degrees, now split that in half, 180 degrees, now split that in half, 90 degrees. You now have 4 quadrents and two hemispheres, the caster adjustment is one hemisphere with positive adjustment on one side, negative on the other, and the opposite hemisphere is camber, positive one way, negative the other....
SVT

 

[doorgunner]

Thanks for the advice fellas....I'm going to need it when I switch over to dream beams.

I already have the 2-piece adjustable eccentrics in my '89 just in case I want to change heigth later on.

With your help, I ought to be able to get it right on the 1st try

I'll keep checking this thread in case you guys post some suspension pics!!!

 

[JoshT]

Actually, those double adjustables are not needed. The single adjustables will still adjust for caster and camber...

Sure, but you can't adjust one without affecting the other.

This is a plain camber/caster bushing.

As SVT mentioned it can be used to adjust camber as well as caster, and actually has about 8 general positions it could potentially be placed in. as follows:

Camber/Caster
+1/0
+.5/+.5
0/+1
-.5/+.5
-1/0
-.5/-.5
0/-1
+.5/-.5

This would be the 8 general positions for a 1 degree bushing, it would vary according to degrees needed. It could be placed in between any of these positions but the same general rule applies. to gain camber you have to loose caster, and to gain caster you must loose camber. Just have to come to the best compromise.

This is an adjustable one:

With an adjustable two piece bushing the holes in each part are offset from center in such a way that you can have both caster and camber adjusted separately. If you need 0 camber and .5 caster you can do that, if you need -1 camber and to +1 caster that's doable as well, hell if you needed 0 and 0 you could get it. I prefer to be able to dial in handling as much as possible, don't want to have to compromise. It may not be important to anyone but me though.

Pick which ever will work best for you.

 

[RangerSVT]

I know the guys at a shop my dad use to work at, and they know how particular I am with my trucks, so anytime I need something done, they let me do it at there shop (alignment and exhaust) and just bill me for the time. I was able to get perfect alignment with the singles, you just got to know about Ford's suspension and how to dial it in. Also, it was never mentioned, but just cause one truck will take 2* to dial it in, does not mean that another truck will. Every truck is different, even brand new off the assembly line...
SVT

 

[doorgunner]

Rangerstv......................................goooooood point!