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2.3L ('83-'97) New Conversion Project: 1990 2.3, efi delete, carburetion and distributor conversion with OEM head and manifold! What??


corerftech

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2021
Messages
308
City
Memphis, TN
Vehicle Year
1987
Transmission
Automatic
Folks, my 1990 Frankentruck has given a few good years of 20 mpg or better after it was resurrected a few years ago from Bubba in Mississippi who deleted nearly the entirety of factory efi parts for use with most of a JC Whitney chrome/speed part catalog.
I had spent months at local JYs to procure enough to complete the OE engine bay. And although a tick lean especially in winter, a rock solid reliable performer.
The day has come to morph the engine into an even more archaic form, with better intrinsic roadside repairability and high reliability. It is a manual trans so I have zero concerns of problems with other vehicle systems. I just completed a similar conversion on a 2001 Explorer 5.0 with some hurdles for technology retreat but fully successful.

The project is this- nobody has a solution for the 1989-91 dual plug head making carburetor easy. Solution is swap heads and regress. I want the DP late model head. There is no aftermarket intake avail not adaptors. There is not room for a distributor under the manifold as well.
I have a solution and it need not have any computer ignition control (albeit optional). It turns the 1990 platform into a carbd, distributed, mech and vac advanced vehicle, like its 1984 older sibling and the Ford Courier, while retaining the OE DP 90 head and nobody pulls the crank pulley either!!

As it turns out the lower intake manifold is ripe for adaptation. It is a dual two runner, equal length unit.
Intake mods: thread/tap all unused ports (injector, etc).
Cut off the ignition module heat sink block. Create a 4150 sized adaptor having the secondary half uncut. This produces a primary two barrel window. Fab a thin wall plenum/port location adaptor from 4150 base plate with a V partition to isolate the primary throats. Install a 600 cfm Edelbrock 1400 series NON AVS2 carb with secondary jets replaced with plugs, and linkage removed. This neuters the $50 donor carb into a two barrel, extremely easy “proper” cfm rated device with Jet and rod range appropriate, two corner idle. It’s a Weber 40 IDF with metering rods for $50 and bowls that will support any HP.

The ignition becomes interesting. I have in hand a NOS 77-82 Courier electronic mag pickup distributor. The distributor is well known to be too tall, any of them are too tall, to live under the manifold. That is——- still wearing a cap, rotor and spark plug wires.

The distributor body will fit, bare.

I will machine off some shaft height to allow the body to be as short as possible. I will lathe turn an aluminum trigger wheel with appropriate arbor to mount in place of the rotor. The wheel will be spindexed on the mill with 4x 1/8” neodymium magnets giving a resolution of 7.5 crank degrees full width and roughly half of that when triggering, spaced 90 degrees.
At two opposing magnets, the underside of the wheel will be milled receive a coil shaped thin magnet of 3/8 inch diameter.

This will give a “two” magnet pole at 180 offset and a “one” magnet pole for the other polar phase. This becomes the discrimination trigger or cylinder ID (CID) signal.

A pair of Littlefuse 55100 hall sensors will be arranged in 90 degree opposition, in an L shape pattern and molded into an epoxy/aliminum sheet form. A module that is NON critically aligned will be created that is user replaceable. This is the pickup device for the trigger wheel.

Interesting: by mounting both sensors/module on the existing gutted Ford/Mitsubishi/Mazda reluctor advance plate, the mechanical and vacuum advance systems operate as OE designed.

In essence, a distributor body based crank trigger with cam sensor is built with high precision, and is timed by hand as is typical with a dizzy. A cap will be machined from plastic that is low profile and flat topped to keep dirt out of the dizzy.

A circuit formed with an XOR and a NAND gate, both CMOS devices, will be fabricated, to interpret the trigger signals and route a current sink to a pair of HEI4 ignition modules. Each CMOS gate has quad devices so only one of each gate chip’s is required for both ignition banks.

The cast aluminum project box has a heat sink side and HEI will be mounted to this. A harness will be made with Deutsch connectors for ease of install and service. Will look a bit like a Duraspark box.
HEI handles dwell manipulation.

This low sophistication ignition box is field serviceable. HEI are roadside repairable. Likelihood of gate failure in 50 years of continuous service is about 1:1,000,000

This box then feeds coil triggers to the stock OE quad tower exhaust side coil. Yes it is a wasted spark system. Uses existing connectors from EFI system removal.

Basis of operation:

Large diameter magnet and associated trigger offers a trigger window of large duration. There are two and these magnets identify a pair of wasted spark cylinders. When the large mags are rising edge triggered far in advance of the spark event, the CMOS will be primed for the second precision event, the precise and narrow pulse from the small magnet and pickup. CMOS routes a pulse to the appropriate HEI. In the event NO BIG MAG is present and the small mag triggers, CMOS routes the pulse to opposite HEI. Dwell for the pulse from mag/trig/cmos is approx 1ms at idle speeds and much smaller at rpm.

This allows HEI full control from 5ms to 30ms dwell with a very short dwell trigger, Ala a reluctor wheel event in a real HEI.

Ignition is a low voltage wasted spark driver. CMOS operation allows for 12v logic level operation and seamless integration into auto electrical.

Back to carb- why a four barrel??? Edelbrock pre-AVS2 carbs are almost free. They are easier to tune than a Motorcraft or Autolite or even a Weber 32/36. Physically large, half of the device goes to sleep and never wakes. I have read many stories of drag racers dropping the secondaries in certain conditions to make runs. The secondary circuit is simple. Throttle blades, Venturi, jets in bowl. Plug the jets, disco the linkage and the primary is now autonomous.

The front crank seal is never violated. Radiator not pulled.

If someone decided they wanted a squirt or other ignition control computer- The trigger wheel gets an additional 12 small magnets evenly spindedexed into the edge of the wheel. The large mag is replaced with a small mag at both locations. This gives sufficient resolution for crank events as a gear down trigger mimicking a 720 degree cycle. The wheel would be a 16-2. Depending on needs, it is easy to go to 24-2 on trigger count. 24 teeth with 2 resets.

I have procured a donor manifold to be the fixture off-car during fabrication. Sensors, magnets, distributor in hand. Gates, HEIs and breadboard in hand. Gates simulated and scoped. Preparing to fab wheel and introduce the dizzy to it for real spin tests in the lathe as varying speeds.

No the system is not as accurate for timing as a real 36-1 crank trigger or similar. But it is far more accurate than the Point based dizzy it is mimicking, vastly easier to install than a crank trigger and for a bone stock 100hp beater truck engine- bullet proof, reliable and field serviceable.

The balance of conversion(efi subsystems) I’ll leave up to the imagination.

I will update with progress. A kit may come from this. Necessity is the mother of invention. I have needs.
 
make it a dual fuel propane and gas carb...
 
For plugging injector holes they make 9/16" or 14mm (don't know which size Ford uses) freeze plugs, makes it clean and easy, just loctite them in place...
 
Just did a mock up mag wheel on the hall sensor specified. Minimum dwell from the magnet at an idle speed is roughly 12ms which is only 3x what can be tolerated. That’s like 100 degrees of crank. At 2000 rpm it shrinks to 5ms which is closer but still too much. Double the rpm and it will probably give 2ms. All no good. Scoping the HEI output dwell time, Chicom junk shit from side a Chinavirus distributor, output tracks input. So 10ms trigger equals a 10ms coil soak. And vice versa. I read a few minutes ago that current HEI don’t adjust dwell. Dwell control may kill the computer less situation.

I can build a delay on two more chips that would give a fixed pulse width no matter what input given. But then if the HEI does nothing to control Dwell, then it’s still deal.

Maybe it will get a computer in the end. I guess OG GM modules really have the proper function but that kills roadside repairability.
 
Well just recalculated dwell. At test rpm of 550 there is 34 degrees of natural dwell from trigger/sensor which is mildly adjustable by gap.

At 2100 that drops to 29 degrees.

Distributor degrees that is. Paralleling points operation and math. It’s actually pretty darned close to right. That is 1100 and 4200 crankshaft RPM respectively. It actually hits the Friggen mark. Back on track. I do believe that is as close as one needs and meets ford basic specs for the Lima. I believe that is a spec of 30-34 degrees of course at cranking speed when tested.
 
Well I have made progress on the project, at least the ignition side.

I have tested a 1977-1982 courier 2.3 distributor, fuel stamped with Mitsubishi. This has a four pole reluctor trigger, mechanical and vacuum advance and is I guess similar to an HEI w/o the module.

I scoped the output and it gives about 2.5 P-P at cranking speed and about 40V P-P output at a few thousand rpm. I had been working toward using simple magnet Hall effect sensors and magnets on a trigger wheel and planning to remove the guts. Using the advance base plate, build a new pickup with two sensors. Cylinder ID and a four pole trigger.
I had to design a simple logic board to utilize the CID and four pole trigger. That led me to adapt to the four tower, Ford EDIS-4 coil. The system is now designed to drive an EDIS4 coil in wasted spark, using a distributor.

The circuit runs a NAND and an XOR receiving signals from two Hall effect sensors. I had an epiphany- what not retain the reluctor for the four pole work and just add a single two tooth window for CID. Essentially replacing the rotor with a steel hub and using a ferrous gear tooth hall sensor.

Then I really simplified it- since the distributor shaft has a flat milled in it to time the rotor as a detent, why not expand that to TWO milled flats, re-clocking to index on the four pole and that would give me a 1/2 inch diameter two tooth trigger wheel.

Essentially the whole of the distributor mods is replacing the cap with a flat aluminum billet piece, have a counter bore in the top with a pocket milled to receive a hall sensor. Cap is milled with a slot externally to house the sensor wires and offer encapsulation and protection. A three wire pigtail leaves the cap and heads for the new ignition box. The OE reluctor triggers all spark events. The 180 opposed hall tooth offers a wide window for a given wasted pair to spark. The other toothed 180 offers the opposing coil a window onto fire and command to inhibit the wrong pair. The reluctor is a narrow trigger, the hall is very wide at 60 degrees.

The NAND receives the four pole and the two pole. The XOR receives the output of the NAND and also the two pole. Their outputs then drive 556 dual timer. Each 555 is a mono stable triggering on rising edge and having the ability to set the dwell period to the required 3.5ms.

The CTRL pin gives a voltage controlled dwell expansion/contraction with rpm changes. Dwell automatically adjusts from 2ms at idle to 3.5 and those times can be adjusted nearly infinitely by a resistor pair or a pot of absolutely needed. Otherwise w/o the CTRL line, I set by RC network, 3.5ms flat 100% of the time.

Each half of the 556 is sent to a 350mw n-channel mosfet to provide current to the GM HEI module. The HEI4 needs about 27ma of drive from the normal HEI reluctor at a trigger voltage of 4.5v. At 2.5v it needs about half that. The mosfet will provide on pulse duty, an amp or more so it is quite sufficient.

The ignition circuit is powered by a 5v regulator running all TTL levels. I tried simulating with CMOS at 12-14v and there is too much level shifting involved. Life is better at 0/5v TTL.

5 wires from distributor:
Reluctor coil (pair)
Back biased hall sensor (3)

The ignition box wires;
12v/ground (pair)
HEI4 outputs (one coil negative line per hei module, two modules total)
A dedicated tach drive signal ( I have to add another chip, a divider to divide the two hall events into one event and then level shift it to at least 12v. I need to research what the ranger needs for tach signal, neg or pos, optimal voltage, etc. I guarantee it won’t run on a TTL even if buffered with lots of drive.

The cap at this point is the only proprietary part. It IS the adaptation.

A heat sink module box housing the CID/ trigger system and a pair of HEI4 Ignitors.

The reluctor is very close to the hall sensor and this may create enough disturbance to effect the hall sensor although it is a differential sensor and is very noise/false trigger immune. If the hall sensor/OE mag wheel fails to reject bad behavior-
A spinning four pointed magnet within a 1/4 inch of the hall sensor may piss it off a bit.

I will build a ferrous wheel, four pole, in place of rotor. It will have two gaps/teeth also milled at 180, top side. The cap will house 2 hall sensors and the distributor shaft will not need to be milled or modified.
Once trigger wheel (rotor replacement) is installed, it’s relatively permanent.

The cap will be the entire sensor package. Carry an extra cap in glove box if you will. Sensors rated at 20billion cycles which is about 10 years continuous duty at 6000 rpm.

Car two replacement HEI4’if you will to field replace the Ignitors.

The module:

TTL 4000 series and 7000 series Texas Instruments logic devices have a 50 year life span.
I will use tantalum caps and metal films in the R side.

This is dumb logic- no cpu, not even an Atmel and PIC uC. It’s DUMB like a dizzy should be. No clock, just simple binary decision making.

Battery reverse voltage protection by diode and 2A fuse at system input. (Someone makes a boo-boo jump starting)

As for the ignition box:

Single layer PC boards with 1 ounce copper. Wide trace as it is working at a snails pace for clock speed. Conformal coated.
Using gold Mil Spec round pin DIP sockets, the logic devices are field replaceable as well, or at least rebuildable on the kitchen table in 5 minutes. They were good enough sockets to be used in space in the 60s, they will do fine in my Frankentruck.
I’ll work out mosfet short circuit protection.

The package provides:

A completely field serviceable ignition system using an optimization of generic parts, including nearly ANY OEM distributor. Off the shelf parts, that are basically dirt cheap. It is wasted spark so for an 89-92 ranger 2.3, you will have a spare coil for the glove box. No added cost!

The distributor fitment remains to be verified. It has no CAP proper and no rotor, no spark plug wires. It is very short and earlier or variable model dizzys may be much shorter and better for adaptation.

Dwell is optimized at 3.5ms for ford coils, fixed duty and precise. Can be adjusted and compensated per rpm change if needed.

My final concern is- can I get to the distributor hole with the EFI manifold still attached, to either install, remove, adjust lock down bolt for timing, R&R sensor cap???

I expect to have the proto done in 60 days and firing test plugs through the entire system on a bench and machine spun.

Why- (not use a microsquirt)?

Well if this fails- it could but it is awful unlikely- I would use the distributor and special cap to simply trigger the squirt. Give it 24 teeth, minus 2 and send it. I would prefer to have a duraspark type ignition. A dizzy, a metal box, a coil. I would prefer to not involve an EDIS-4 and a crank trigger. I would prefer to perform only surgery at the dizzy hole in block. I prefer to have point style dizzy- it won’t fit- well this is damned close and outperforms it all day long. Dwell sucks on a set of points, this is optimal. Low parts count. No harness into passenger areas. It’s a complete system, and runs the engine completely autonomous of any other inputs or systems.
This is 2 MSD boxes that are far smarter than an MSD box, minus the MSD part and the MSD premium.

Anyone out there of repute interested in offering their 1989-92 as a “second test vehicle”? You will have to procure the dizzy- I would have to build you an ignition box and a fitted cap. You would need to video the testing and document results adequately.

Last thought-

For testing- is there any reason that I could not run this ignition in parallel to the EFI (having disconnected the TFI intake module)?

Let computer manage fuel and think for a few minutes it has control over spark- but let the dizzy handle it? I think the concern is fitment of the dizzy with intake manifold installed.

I am not in a position this week to visualize the dizzy hole/manifold interface and if a dizzy can be shoehorned in to the mix. I am concerned stuff will need deleting first which leaves the vehicle stranded in garage. I want to avoid stranding the truck under test in garage. Nondestructive testing is a must.

Thoughts? Interested in being a tester? After me of course!

see ya
 
Last edited:
A photo of the dizzy in hand for project.
IMG_7684.jpeg
 
I wish I had a running 2.3 in a ranger and the knowledge to help you.
Best of luck!
I'm looking forward to your results.
 
I do believe I figured out fully sequential as well, with zero chance of a misfire or crossfire. And I believe the module in the new form will support, variably, wasted spark and sequential, any cylinder combo from 2 to 8, including a 5 cyl volvo or 3 cyl geo metro.

I will be simulating the new circuit.

As well, it need not drive HEI modules (wasted spark, COP, CNP, anything devoid of an igniter) One could use BIP373 or other IGBT type devices as igniters. Will drive LS coils direct with logic outputs in sequential (or any other logic switched coil).

I figure for the roadside repair consideration, HEI4 would be easier for an end user. HEI very expensive though at $30-40 each x 4 for a V8.
BIPs are a couple bucks each, but not field serviceable.

Harping on field service too much though. A factory OE ECU lives for 20 years without issue on those drivers unless you have a severe coil fault. There is no reason I would have any less longevity.

But- using Chicom junk shit HEI4 as found at your LAPS- well a sunset guarantee is a long time possibly.

Tach driver done, can be pos or negative trigger per user needs, and can be a 5v logic with a buffer or ramped up to 14.4 (battery charging voltage) if the tach needs more.
 

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