New car! New problems....

[Exploder_Chick]

Well, gave up on the ranger. Got the new head gasket installed but got the timing wrong and really ferked things up. Got it hot enough to either crack or warp the heads because I was putting at least a gallon of water in it everyday I drove it. So my dad owns it again lol.
Well I recently purchased myself a decent little 94 Probe GT. The people I got it from bought it, fixed a broken steering arm, drove it for a week and sold it to me for about $900 in profit lol. Anyways, it had a check engine light on and we checked it and it was o2 sensor and a something else.... i can't remember exactly but I replaced the o2 and the check engine went away. Well my main problem right now is... The guy said it was just really cold blooded so you had to push the gas pedal down all the way to get it started. Wrong. It floods when you start it so when I push the gas pedal to the floor, it cuts off the fuel to the injectors and it starts. Found this out cause I went to take it to my BFs work to get it cleaned and it flooded the pistons. Took the fuel relay out, turned it over a few times, put it back in and got it started after a few tries. So basically anytime I flood it out, that is what I have to do. When I'm driving it, and I push the clutch in and it slows down under it's own power, it pops and sounds kind of like its intermintent? I can't describe it but it just seems like it's getting more fuel then needs and possibly burning it on exhaust stroke? I'm not sure. It has a little git up and go but I just feel like it should have more for being a GT. But I guess I could be wrong. So far I have replaced the spark plugs and the o2 sensor. I get paid tomorrow and am buying a battery and the rest of the tune up package like cap, rotor, air filter, and oil change.

My question is, anyone have any idea what could cause this? I want to think bad injection o-rings? It's also a little harder to start the longer it sits without being started whish is what makes me think o-rings... From what I'm told, the kid that used to own it drove from Utah to Washington alot because of school. Any idea's would be great! And feel free to ask any questions, I'll answer them to the best of my ability. Thanks!

 

[Exploder_Chick]

Anyone? I'd like t get this problem fixed or atleast get some insight....

 

[TheTopher]

Anyone? I'd like t get this problem fixed or atleast get some insight....

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question, but when an Injector o ring was bad on my Integra you could see fuel visibly leaking down the fuel rail from the injector, which I would assume was giving it LESS fuel.


In my limited experience I'd start with the basic tuneup, also make sure you do a fuel filter change and clean off the throttle body and MAF sensor if it has one.


If you can, check the fuel pressure while you're at it. Also see about nabbing up a copy of the Chilton manual, they're worth their weight in gold when fixing cars.

 

[jhammel85]

I'm having trouble too..Sorry! Does the car just crank and crank when you try to start it?

I would check the plugs to see how dirty they are and possibly check the fuel pressure. More than anything though, if its a manual, It could also be a problem with the clutch lockout switch in the manual trans pedal assy. At least I think thats the right location (If i recall correctly.)

I love those cars....I used to own a 97 Probe. They're awesome cars with a really good engine and trans. Be weary of the dist dying in the 94...I belive 96-97 were the best years for that motor without dist problems. Plenty reliable regardless IMHO.

Check out www.probetalk.com Theyre a good community that might be able to help as well.

 

[feellnfroggy]

It shouldnt be flooding when you push the petal cuz its electronic ignition, the computer control the injectors not the pedal like carb'd cars. The motor is a mazda motor, 2.5 v-6 ibelieve. best thing is to find a good mazda site and ask them, mine was a 4 cyl. Now I will say this, the ford MAF's went bad ALOT on those cars. Unplug it and see if it runs better. If so then its bad.

 

[Exploder_Chick]

Well, like I said when I push the pedal to the floor, i'm told that it sends a signal to the computer to shut off or reduce the amount of fuel put into the cylinders upon starting. It runs smooth and when I said intermittent, I ment kind of like it sputters. I replaced the sparks plugs and it does run better but it still floods. It doesn't leak any fuel so I'm not exactly sure.

And yea, it just cranks and cranks and cranks when it's flooded. Just remove my fuel pump relay and crank it over a few times to push new air through and drain the cylinders of the fuel, plug it back in and it starts right up like it should.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Yes on an EFI vehicle if you mash the pedal to the floor while cranking it shuts off fuel to the engine...

This is an odd problem. I would doubt its te mass air flow sensor just because it shouldnt flood out this bad because of that....

A bad O2 sensor can make it run pig rich....

It is very, very hard to flood an EFI engine though....unless you have a goofy problem like maybe your fuel pump over priming when you turn the key on? Maybe a blown fuel pressure regulator?

....and probes really never had that much get up and go, even the GT's....

later,
Dustin

 

[Jason]

Have you checked the fuel pressure? If the regulator goes bad it can easily hold the injectors open...

 

[Exploder_Chick]

Rusty, Well we replaced the O2 sensor. And when someone says a car is "quick" and it puts you back in the seat, I feel that it SHOULD, but then again my bf had a nissan silvia with the SR20 in it and thats just what I'm used to lol. Any ways, I'll have him check the fuel pressure on it. It's even harder to keep runnin when it's really cold. Such a pain in my ass haha

 

[TheTopher]

Yes on an EFI vehicle if you mash the pedal to the floor while cranking it shuts off fuel to the engine...

This is an odd problem. I would doubt its te mass air flow sensor just because it shouldnt flood out this bad because of that....

Actually if I remember right Jim Oaks had a very similar problem with his 2010 F150. It wouldn't start at all, had it towed to the shop who managed to start it while holding the pedal. Ended up being a bad MAF.


I'll see if I can find the thread.



Edit: Here ya be!

http://www.blueovaltrucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70243

 

[Shran]

Sounds like you've got leaking injectors and/or bad fuel pressure regulator... pretty much what everyone else said

 

[rusty ol ranger]

If its even harder to start when cold it might be a coolant temputure sensor....basically does what a choke does on an Carburated engine, if its reading cold all the time its like chokeing a warm engine, it will flood everytime.

later,
Dustin

 

[Shran]

If its even harder to start when cold it might be a coolant temputure sensor....basically does what a choke does on an Carburated engine, if its reading cold all the time its like chokeing a warm engine, it will flood everytime.

later,
Dustin

Doubtful. I have changed out many of these and never once has a bad one resulted in a flooded engine. It will run very rich, yes, but not flood out.

 

[shane96ranger]

I'm going to say bad fuel pressure regulator. It is very possible for you to check the pressure of the regulator and have it be normal, and that would steer you away from thinking that was the cause. I just had this scenario on my Mustang. I found out it was bad when I drove it around for a bit then removed the vacuum line. Within 5 minutes of me shutting the car off it started leaking fuel out the vacuum port on top of the regulator. So when I went to start it, the vacuum line was full of unspent fuel so it would take a good amount of cranking to burn that up, then it would start and run fine. Check into that, it's worth a shot.

 

[shane96ranger]

Have you checked the fuel pressure? If the regulator goes bad it can easily hold the injectors open...

It would more than likely blow out the diaphragm before it would come out a properly working injector.