New 2.9 won't start

[Shnick22]

I have just installed a rebuilt 2.9 in my 1987 ranger. It's an 89 motor with remanufactured heads on it. I have spark and I have fuel but it will not fire. I have it set to tdc with the distributor pointed towards the number one tower on the cap. Any thing I'm missing?

 

[RonD]

The distributor could be 180 degrees out.

Distributor goes 1 full turn for each 2 turns of the crankshaft, so there are 2 TDCs for #1.
Compression TDC and exhaust TDC.

2.9l Firing Order is 1-4-2-5-3-6

Rotate engine manually until rotor is pointed at #5 and crank is on TDC
Pull out distributor and rotate rotor to #1 then put it back in

You could also just change the spark plug wires on the cap.
Starting at current #1 and then going clock wise
5-3-6-1-4-2

 

[Shnick22]

I tried it both ways with the distributor and still nothing, it won't even try to fire either way

 

[RonD]

Gas Engine needs 3 things to start
Spark(at the right time)
Air/fuel mix near 14:1
Compression

After cranking pull out #1 spark plug and check that it's tip has fuel on it.
Starting fluid(ether) is good to test if lack of fuel is an issue.

Then with spark plug out crank engine to see if you get the "wosh" noise of good compression from that cylinder.
Of if you have a compression tester use that, should be above 140psi

Then bump the starter, with finger on/in the #1 spark plug hole, when you start to feel the compression stroke take off distributor cap and confirm rotor is approaching #1 position.

There was a "starting wire" used on the coil of older engines.
It supplied the coil with 12volts only when cranking, then once key was released from START position coil would only get 8volts.

You could run a temporary jumper wire from battery +, to the + on the coil, that will insure you are getting full 12v when cranking.

This "starting wire" comes from the starter solenoid/relay on the fender well, it is either connected to the "I" on a 4 post solenoid or to the Starter motor post on a 3 post solenoid

 

[bigfatloser]

What was the reason for the rebuild? Was it running before? I ask because I purchased 88 with a non-running motor due to bad heads. Rebuilt/replaced motor and would not fire. Cats were plugged solid, with what I assume was Bars-leak that was added to the old motor by the previous owner. Fought it for almost a week, had spark, checked codes, ect, ect. Only ran after I removed the cats out of frustration.

 

[truckerdawg]

Ditto on what RonD said. Run a compression check with a gauge. Make sure all cylinders are within a few lbs. of each other. If far apart could be improper ring fitment. Heck, I've seen shops miss-bore cylinders.

 

[acole86]

Just a thought. There are two gray wiring connectors on the right side of the engine. Make sure you don't have them swapped.
Did this once. Thought I had them back the right way when I installed the engine but it wouldn't start no matter what I did. I noticed they were the exact same connectors so swapped them around out of desperation and the truck fired right up.

 

[acole86]

Realized after I was working on my 86 that it only has 1 grey connector in it's harness and your 87 and it might not have the two grey connectors I referenced that my 89 has. But still worth a look.