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never outside temp air


Ranger#1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
1,359
Age
34
City
lake havasu
Vehicle Year
1990
Transmission
Automatic
no matter what i try to do if i put it on cold it still blows warm if i put it on hot it blows hot even on cold days it still isnt even close to the temp of air outside and no matter what the air is always coming through the vents always :bawling: it gets anoying
 
nice try but no the constantly blowing thing is puzzeling where does the ranger pull air from the outside
 
Check the function cam on the plenum. Usually plastic (at least on newer cars) and they like to break.

Quick way is to cycle it from panel to defrost and listen for doors to open and close.

As for the temperature, have you checked for refrigerant leaks? Is the compressor kicking on?
 
Pat or Totalled, added a heater core coolant diversion valve from a 3rd or 4th gen ranger to his 1st gen sploder. the system in these trucks have a blend door that doesnt seal off the hot air area very well. his ac temp dropped about 10 deg after the valve addition.
 
I have the same issue on my '87 BII. Outside air, even at the coldest setting, is warmer than ambient. A few questions . . .

Thunder: The diagram you posted - what is it? Gen I? Top or side view?

901wd: How does the heater core diversion system work? Are parts available?

Anyone: If a poor sealing blend door is a main cause, can this be easily improved or fixed? How?
Thanks.

CraigK
 
Craig, I'm not positive of the view on that and the diagram didn't specify. Follow the cables from the control head and it'll lead you right to it. That diagram is a Gen II.

If the blend door isn't sealing too well, you can check to see if the cables need adjustment. These are the adjustment steps for a Gen I.

1) Check operation by moving mode control lever to "PANEL" and then back past "DEFROST" position. When released, lever should bounce back slightly.

2)Drop glove box by squeezing sides together to disengage tabs and let box hang free. Working through opening, remove cable housing from metal attaching clip on top of plenum by depressing clip tab and pulling cable up. See Fig. 2 (the diagram posted after the steps) Cable should remain attached to door cams and/or crank arms.

3)Set temperature control lever to "COOL" position. With cable end attached to temperature door cam, push gently on cable housing (Blue) to seat blend air door(push until resistance is felt).Reinstall cable clip by pushing cable jacket into clip from top until it snaps in.

4)Set mode control lever in "DEFROST" position and hold. with cable end attached to mode cam, pull on cable housing until cam travel stops. Reinstall cable to clip.

5)Set air door lever to "MAX AC" position and hold. Set air door crank arm (White) in down position. With cable end attached to door crank, reinstall cable to clip. Reinstall glove box. With blower on "HIGH" check operation.
Fig.2
 
Gen II cable adjustment steps (Fig. 2 is the Gen II diagram I posted above. Post #5)

Click on "Full Size" on the bottom right of the image.
 
901wd: How does the heater core diversion system work? Are parts available?
CraigK

Its a valve that runs off vacuum. When selected it bypasses the coolant that would go to the heater core. creating 0 additional heat in the airbox. I had an old dodge that had a block off valve that was the temp control, full open was hi heat and it restricted the flow to lower the temp till it closed completely.

My 89 F150 does the same thing, but I didnt mess with it wasn't that hot here this summer didnt use the ac much in the truck.
On my old B2 in the summer, I would remove the heater hoses and connect a U tube to them, Cap off the core inlet & outlet. only heat it picked up was radiant from the engine compartment.
 
did that make a big diff also im thinking the buypass would look wayyyy cleaner what kind of vacume did it run off of engine vac. doesent seem right
 

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