Neutral Position Switch wiring with 96 M5OD

[arrabil]

I'm swapping a 96 M5OD into the 90 BII. What am I supposed to do with the Neutral Position Switch wires since the 96 M5OD doesn't have an NPS? Should I wire them to the Clutch Position Switch? Jumper them? Searching reveals that the 2.9 engine computer uses this signal to set idle so it seems jumpering isn't the right thing to do. Thanks.

 

[AllanD]

Frankly I'd ignore it.

I did for years and while the engine would sometimes stumble at idle
rolling up to a traffic light switching to a 4.0 reduced that problem so
that only a trained/experienced ear can hear it when it happens.

my 1993 4.0 is supposed to have a neutral sense switch.
Unfortunatly NONE of the 1994-up transmissions have them.
I'm currently running a '97 trans.

AD

 

[arrabil]

Allan, can you explain how the engine uses the neutral signal? If the tranny is in gear but my foot is on the clutch, shouldn't the engine stumble the same as without the NPS signal? Or is it then relying on the CPS?

Also, is the NPS signal used by the electric transfer case for shifting into 4-lo?

I bought a 96 tranny cause I wanted the stronger 5th/reverse gear not realizing there was another kink.

 

[AllanD]

I've alwas thought that the NSS was part of a goivernment mandated
upshift light system for which the requirement was eliminated before
the Ranger's actually got it.

But Engineers being engneers they found other uses for that signal.

The early computers looked for it... however it should be noted that while
the 2.3, 2.9 and 4.0 had them early on many 1993-94 Ranger 4.0's don't and I've never seen a 3.0 with one... Go figuire.

which is why I said ignore it.

I'm running without mine.

Then again my clutch switch isn't hooked to my computer either.
My truck is an '87 and the Clutch interlock switch was operated
by a seperate plastic pushrod... you know the one that binds on
it's pivot then snaps off...

Rather than rewire my under dash to install a 1998-up style pushrod
I simply ignored the problem

The extra rotating mass of the 4.0... well it simply doesn't notice.

I've actively TRIED to stall my 4.0 and short of trying to pull away
from a traffic light in third it just won't do it... the 4.0... just doesn't care.

So aside from getting error codes when I run a self-test for the NSS
and the Clutch position switch and usually a cluster of hard codes
for "Lean both banks" I could care less...

"Lean both banks"? my truck has dual tanks and when I run one tank dry
I often get a check engine light, I KNOW what it is so if I find the yellow
light annoying and traffic permits I cycle the key to off momentarily to stop the annoying light.
If I do nothing it goes off by itself in a minute or so...

But then I get error codes for it...


AD

 

[rickcdewitt]

correct me if i'm wrong but can't you just use a top plate from an older trans if you want to retain the nps?the old style has a slightly longer throw at the knob though,about 1/2" each way.it clears the older dashes and consoles but is tight on newer trucks.

i just got my trans back together and stumbled on this thread looking for a way to keep my 2000 shift plate that has no nps. i thought about drilling/tapping it for the switch but i might try allens approach.

my main concern being the impact error codes would have on passing smog inspection(instant fail).

anyway thanks for the right info as always allen and a great site.

it is good to know that it will work even if the smog nazi's will frown.