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need to replace brake lines front to rear


swynx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2008
Messages
2,401
Age
33
City
lewiston idaho
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
The link doesn't work, but I'm assuming you're talking about using pre-flared 70" sections of brake line and joining them together? If so, yes that works fine. Most people that come in the parts store I work at use that method.
 
Still works for me. But any ways yes that is what I was talking about. I just didn't know if the threads would work?

American Grease Stick Poly-Armour - Brake Line
1 year limited warranty
UPC: 77146370076PVF
Coated SteelFor Domestic Vehicles
3/16 Inch Outside Diameter x 72 Inch LengthSAE Inverted Flare 3/8-24 Short Thread

Detailed Description
Superior rust protection with polyvinyl fluorine coating.

Additional DetailsType: PVF CoatedThread Size: 3/8-24 InchMaterial: SteelFitting Type: Inverted FlareOutside Diameter (In): 3/16 InchLength (In): 72 Inch
 
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That line you're looking at has the correct threads for the rear brake hose at the rear axle. However, I just looked up a master cylinder for a 94 B4000. It apparently has metric threads, and they're probably bubble flare. You can buy pre-flared sections of bubble flare brake line, but at some point along the way you need to convert it to double flare to thread into the rear hose. You can buy an adaptor that converts the bubble flare to regular double flare, like this:

KTI-04001__25384.1371239376.1280.1280.jpg

This will allow you to use nothing but pre-flared double flare lines. It just threads onto the double flare line and will thread right into the master cylinder.

You may also be able to buy a small section of pre-flared "adaptor line" that has the bubble flare on one end, and a double flare on the other end. Adaptor lines are typically about 8" long.

Worst case scenario, if you can't find either of those, you can make your own adaptor line (and it doesn't have to be 8", make it as long or short as you want): take a section of pre-flared bubble flare line, cut one end off, and put on a double flare fitting and flare that end yourself. Then you can use the sections of double-flare line the rest of the way back. Or cut a double flare line and make your own bubble flare for the master cylinder.
 
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cheap harbor frieght flare tool works fair, just have to take your time. makes both bubble and double flare. bubble flare is easy.
Myself, grab a few sections of brake line. couple extra fittings(so yo can couple the line toghter., and the flare tool.then you can make the ends to what ever you need rather easy.

do put a couple of spirals in the line, from the master cyclinder to the line has some flex
 
Yeah, that would work. You'd also need a plastic sleeve (ie, filler) so the original plastic frame clips can grab that new smaller line, which is not wire-wound like Ford's was.

Actually, you'd be going back only to the rubber hose atop the left-rear wheel, which has the same (3/8"-24 INV) fittings as that AGS PA372 Steel Brake Line from O'Reilly ( http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ck=Search_N0833_1172618_-1&pt=N0833&ppt=C0066 ). A rubber hose goes from there to the pumpkin.

Does your '94 have RABS, like mine? If so, then its rear-facing output is also a (3/8"-24 INV) fitting. Would you be replacing the other line from the MC to RABS? That MC-RABS line is weird cuz its MC fitting uses metric bubble flare, and yet it goes into the RABS input with (7/16"-24 INV) fitting. Yes, mixed fittings on this line.

Fwiw, my 1997 B4000 info and photos are here: ( http://imgur.com/a/sUnMy ) <== CLICK.
 
Yeah I have that rabs thing in the middle of the frame rail. Plan on bypassing it. I can't get any of the lines unbolted from it. Sheared off the bolt trying to get it off. So I'm going to replace all my brake lines with out it.
 
That was a very handy write up. I used one like it for my front end rebuild. The imgur ones are awesome.
 
Thanks! Yeah, I really like Imgur albums for stuff like this, and I find it really easy to use. Photobucket is hard.

The RABS mounts to the frame rail with just 1 bolt, which seems easily replaced. Maybe the rusted brake line fittings are easier to remove when the RABS is held in a bench vice?

RABS bypass would be easier than removal. I read somewhere that unplugging the RABS valve would turn on the pesky ABS lamp on your dashboard, so you might want to keep the electrical part of it intact?
 
I had a 94 and i just diconnected the rabs under the dash. Worked fine no cel light. OBD1
 

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