Need some t-case help

[The_Dealer]

Well I found out today that my rear spicer shaft is almost at the end of its slip with 4.5" of lift, and I've been tryn to figure out what to do about replacing it. I didn't really want to drop 250 bucks for a new custom shat. With some searching I found that if u use a 1354 front yoke on the rear of the 1350 u can use a stock explorer shaft. Had the j/y do some measureing for me and it seems like it would work. First off they won't sell me just the flange, so where can I go about getting one. Checked online at some driveline stores and nothing turned up. Second question, when I do find a flange do I need to torque the nut to a certaint ft lbs or is it crank it on down? Don't know if there's a certain preload that it needs to be. Tried to search for that and again found nothing. Thanks guys

 

[bobbywalter]

Well I found out today that my rear spicer shaft is almost at the end of its slip with 4.5" of lift, and I've been tryn to figure out what to do about replacing it. I didn't really want to drop 250 bucks for a new custom shat. With some searching I found that if u use a 1354 front yoke on the rear of the 1350 u can use a stock explorer shaft. Had the j/y do some measureing for me and it seems like it would work. First off they won't sell me just the flange, so where can I go about getting one. Checked online at some driveline stores and nothing turned up. Second question, when I do find a flange do I need to torque the nut to a certaint ft lbs or is it crank it on down? Don't know if there's a certain preload that it needs to be. Tried to search for that and again found nothing. Thanks guys

i do that all the time. depending on what t case i am using i can just swap yokes. or like when you swap in a f/s axle and a yoke swap will mitigate the need for a cross joint...1330 on the axle end and stay 1310 on the ranger side.......or if a guy swaps a big joint rear axle into an older ranger with the 12 series joints...just run the big joint slip on the little joint shaft on the axle end.

usually i would run the jeep 208. the joint offset is different on those from the 208f....when i run out of the j cases i have to run the f case. the change up of the slips works perfect and because the shafts were customized and optimized with that in mind.

 

[bobbywalter]

nut specs can vary, i usually do 200 pounds with locktight if i dont get a new nut---new nut always preferred just not always available at the time of the surgery

 

[The_Dealer]

going from pics, the 1354 flange looks like it sticks out farther then my 1350 flange. and the explorer driveshafts dont have flanges on either end. i know the t-case end is a ubolt style flange. but the other end also looks like it has a ubolt style flange.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...equestid=61830

says its 28 1/4" long but the pics shows it compressed. is that how they are measuring it? also once i put the flange on the axle side of it, it will make it a little bit longer. so how are they measuring it, compressed or collapsed? and how should i measure mine to go about seeing how much longer it needs to be? flange to flange or center of ujoints?

just trying to make sure this is gonna do what i need and wont be too short or too long...thanks guys

 

[feellnfroggy]

Why not just have your axle extended? Ive heard of people doing that for very cheap, Im not familiar with the "spicer shaft" so maybe its not possible, but I dont see why not. An extended shaft if properly welded and ground can be balanced just as good as any other.

 

[The_Dealer]

The only driveline store around here said that u can't lengthen a shaft only shorten it. They wanted 50 just to balance it. Are they stupid? Should I go to the one in atl that the jeep guys use?