Need purchase input from the pros please (long sorry)

[Slim]

As the title states I need input from those of you with more experience. I am looking to purchase my first Ranger. I have a few selections I wish further input on from you all.

My highest criteria has been getting an extended cab. Everything else is secondary and i'm not really that picky - I don't care what colour it is, I don't care if it's stick or auto and I don't care if it's a 4x4 or 2wd. Intended usage is to haul my butt to work and back, haul me and gf and mtn bikes to trails, maybe haul a motorcycle (rarely). Winter and summer, just about every day of the year. No intent to offroad or lift, but i'm sure many people start by saying that, so who knows.

It's hard to find trucks around here that are extended cab that aren't either a pos, a rust bucket or being sold by some crack head that wants way too much money (way to much by most people's standards, i'm sure).

The contestants;

'95 4.0 XLT ext 4x4 auto 240K kms. Not bad, drives smooth with no clunks or rattles or anything (very impressed actually). Not bad condition, but windshield has a crack ("oh, I was just gonna throw a sticker over that"), the brake lines under the hood are rotten (because the inner fender covers are missing) and the exhaust manifolds are rotten too. The rest of the truck is pretty darn good, oil sprayed and such. Also, grill replaced, front bumper is crooked, factory fog lights have no covers and paint is scratched from kids' bicycles (not badly, but still). Private sale for $3400 with safety and e-test. I complained about brakes and commented about price despite seller saying he wouldn't go below $3400. This may or may not change (although I doubt it - not much of a seller).


'98 ext 4x4 stick 234K kms. Not bad, have yet to drive it. Dual exhaust (don't know origin). Clean all around, strange "speckling" of rust in select areas underneath. Not much to complain about. Oh wait, yes there is - dealer sale for ..... $4000! (insert cursing here) That's not including a safety or e-test. I need to go back to talk with them and test drive it.


'97 3.0 2wd auto 270k kms. NOT ext cab (but wait). Drove it - drives well, slightly "floaty" but it might have been tires/pressure, not sure yet. I didn't have a major problem with the fact that it's not an extended cab - don't know what it'll be like after 6 months. Truck is clean underneath and under hood (surprisingly so). Paint isn't perfect, possibly worst of the bunch, but still very liveable. Oddly, the key only works in the ignition "one way". Flareside, if that means anything. This has actually been THE truck to beat - i'm comparing all other's i've seen (about 6 now) against it for it's overall condition! Private sale for ..... $2250. That's with a safety and e-test. But wait, there's more! Included is 4 good snow tires!


I'm kinda rooting for the '97 myself. It's the fall back and value buster all at the same time. I kinda surprise myself that i'm willing to sacrifice the comfort, perhaps only temporarily, for sake of value, but with all the crap i'm seeing lately i'm getting tired of BS excuses, games, phone tag and ..... all of it. The '97 can be ready to go in a day or two and I don't need everyone carting my butt around whereas the other trucks will be full of more excuses why it's not ready yet.

Okay, sorry for all the blabbing, i'm done now. Ears (eyes) are open. Your input is greatly appreciated.

THANKS!

 

[Ozwynn]

I wouldn't buy any of those at those prices.

 

[Mark_88]

Hey Andrew...

I was going to reply to your other post about the auto trader but got busy with my Linux studies...anyways...

I forgot to mention rust...and since you said the brake lines are rusted out on one of the above selections...that's something you want to look for in Canada...the salt eats them up if they aren't sprayed, and the worst hit areas are the firewall, the rear of the cab corners, and the box above both wheels...

If you have any experience with finding rust on cars you'll know what to look for...otherwise...when you open the hood look closely at the area around the hood hinges on the firewall and all the way out to the fenders on both sides...and also around the clutch...don't be afraid to take something hard and pointy to them either...because if they are rusting there you might only get a few years out of your investment before having to spend more money or time repairing...

The box fenders aren't usually too much to worry about because you can always replace the box for a couple of hundred dollars from a wrecking yard...

If you like the 97 then it might be a good fit for you...shouldn't be too rusty but the windshields can crack if the firewall is rotted out...nothing to support it properly when that happens...found that out myself when I went to buy a replacement cab...

Otherwise...there are probably plenty out there...

 

[OldJunk]

OUCH!!!!!You got to be able to find better examples, at those kinds of prices!!!

 

[86ford]

ok i am going to compare the prices you posted and try to keep my local (us dollar) prices out of the equation.

the 3.0 is IMO a car engine. it revs high and does not have much low end torque compared to a 4.0. so this mite slant my views

to me the quality of the motor, trans and axles is more important than the body ( no inspections here only e-check (emissions test)). a blown engine, trans or axle can get expensive really quick if its a DD and you dont want to risk getting a almost junk engine or trans from the bone yard.

the color of the oil and smell would be #1 on my list, if it smells burnt, looks burnt or appears neglected in anyway beware.

if the coolant is not the proper color or looks rusty beware. (should be green with all the trucks you mentioned)

if its a 5 speed rev it up to 2500-3000 and side step the clutch, a bad clutch will slip and creep forward. a good clutch will stall nearly instantly.

a automatic is more of a crap shoot, if the fluid looks new (compare it to a new bottle of ATF) you SHOULD be OK but no promises. many automatic transmissions let loose without warning

check the diff plugs for MAJOR metal shavings. most likely they have never been changed and if they have you should seriously think about buying that vehicle because the majority of people dont change diff fluid EVER.

take into account previous owners. if the dummy changes oil out of his 1 car garage at home for a living the truck mite be a hack job. if the guy is a master tech at a ford dealer you MITE have better luck with the truck. when people have the cash to fix there vehicles they usually fix them, when they dont things go neglected like oil changes, coolant flushes, brake parts, diff fluids etc. i did not discuss wear items for the most part because you should expect to replace them on any vehicle sooner or later. but a engine is not a wear item for most people (myself and others around here being exceptions). if it looks abused, drives and looks like it has not seen a grease gun in 40k, the oil smells and looks burnt etc its most likely a junk yard truck not a DD truck.

86

just as a FYI for those that posted before and those yet to come, rust is a big issue here in cleveland BUT usually a rust bucket has far more problems than just a shot firewall or some trashed cab corners.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

check out kijiji,, a very quick scan of kijiji Barrie turned up a few rangers..I seen one outside of Bradford for $850, did'nt stop to look but looked to be in nice shape. may go past there later today and make an inquiry,,,I will post up if I come across anything you may like

 

[Mark_88]

just as a FYI for those that posted before and those yet to come, rust is a big issue here in cleveland BUT usually a rust bucket has far more problems than just a shot firewall or some trashed cab corners.

I agree for the most part with your priorities...now...but my first Ranger made rust a priority...after fighting with it for nearly 2 years to finally get it running right, including a new clutch and short block, the firewall disintigrated...which led me on another 4 year crusade to get my new 88 rebuilt from the ground up...but having done all the other work I was able to transfer most parts over to my new ranger, incuding the engine and recently replace front end...

Don't want Slim to end up getting something that turns out to be a work in progress...

 

[MAKG]

OUCH!!!!!You got to be able to find better examples, at those kinds of prices!!!

The Canadian dollar is worth a bit more than US$0.80 these days.

Is it worth $1000+ to go out west and pick up an '86? They run fine (as long as fuel injected), get a bit over 20 MPG (US), and the only major problems are automatic transmissions (get a stick for ANY RBV), head cracks on V6s (lift the oil cap, look for snot), and rust. That last part is why you go West. Without road salt, you'll find 40+ year old offroaders running around. Not sure of Alberta, but there sure are a lot of 1968 Early Broncos running around Colorado.

 

[snake]

West is nice but it stills snows there. Go to TX or FL and get an older, completely rust-free vehicle. Make a nice road trip out of it.

 

[MAKG]

Snow is not the same as salt. Salt is the issue. Salt is not used everywhere there is snow.

If snow were a problem, where did all those EB's in Colorado come from? There are a LOT of them. Salt is not very effective in mountain areas, and it isn't used in the Rockies or anyplace westward, at least in the US.

 

[Ozwynn]

no but washington uses calcium chloride which is worse than salt.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

they use both here,,calcium chloride I hear is worse then salt. It really sucks either way.My '97 is fairly clean but begining to develop some cancerous body spots. It also makes it very difficult to take things apart.

 

[Ozwynn]

yep, the minivan is a 99 and is rusted. nothing co-operates when its time to take stuff apart. that calcium chloride is nasty stuff.

 

[PickupMan04 FX4 L2]

id keep looking.. that kinda mileage is to high for any of those prices..

 

[Ozwynn]

there was a 98 supercab flareside (splash model?) foresale up the road for $2895. I'll see if its still there later today. advertised as having 5 speed and 3.0L 2wd.