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Need major help


Chuckyc19977

Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2020
Messages
18
City
Delaware
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
I have a 94 splash 3.0 5 speed .... the truck turns over and idles and hell runs down the road then stops after a few min i can start it again but with trouble almost like it isnt getting gas once it gets going qgain it spits and spuuders and back fires.... i put a new fuel pump in it a new fuel filter new plugs and plug wires.... i have noticed it sounds like my exhaust is going not sure if that has anything to do with it..... but I need mqjor help I start a new job making good money and I need this thing fixed
 
Welcome to TRS :)

On cold start a Fuel injected engine should REV up to about 1,500rpm(don't touch the gas pedal)
Then should idle down to about 1,000rpms depending on outside temp, warmer temp lower RPM
As engine warms up RPMs at idle should drop and after 5min or so they will be at 700-750 on a 1994 3.0l manual trans

If this is not happening then it could be 3 things
1. ECT sensor, it tells computer engine is cold so computer sets "the Choke", which is high idle and Rich fuel mix
2. IAC Valve, computer uses this to set idle, its open all the way when cranking engine so engine REVs to 1,500 when it starts, then computer closes it a bit to set cold idle of 1,000rpms or so

3. spark timing, you have a distributor in a 1994 3.0l Ranger and you need to set spark timing manually, using a timing light
You have a remote mounted TFI(ICM) module, it has a SPOUT connector that needs to be unplugged to set timing

Fuel system
On the engine is the FPR(fuel pressure regulator), it has the RETURN fuel line attached and a vacuum hose
Pull off the vacuum hose and check it for gasoline, shouldn't be any, of course, if so replace it
There are two fuel lines coming in from drivers side of engine bay, follow both to the engine and you will find the FPR, looks like a small "can"
 
What were the symptoms last year?
 
Almost the same thing just not the same i would get it running it would shut off after a few sec come to find out the distributor got knocked out of time some how when i changed the plugs and cap i replaced alot of parts last year till i fogured that out thats why when u mentioned getting it back in time I was like oh yea im gonna do that first
 
If its backfiring its almost guranteed to be timing.
 
Ok spout is disconnected and im getting it back to top dead center and im gonna put cap on with number 1 on the cap over the pieces then I just turn rotor till it comes back up to idling correctly right and if i get a timing gun where do I connect it to the number 1 plug wire that goes into the plug or the part that goes into the cap?
 
Yes, timing light connects to #1 spark plug wire, and to battery for power

With spout connector removed you time the engine to 10-12deg BTDC
Take a scotchbrite or similar to clean the degree markings on the pulley
You can put some white paint on a rag tip and rub it into the degree markings, they are recessed so when you wipe it off the paint will high light the recessed marks

You need to time the engine after its warmed up, so set timing so it starts up and then let it idle for 5 mins, then you can shut it off and get set up to do the timing
Most prefer 12deg BTDC

When you plug in the Spout connector timing should advance to about 20deg BTDC

You use the POINTER, and NOT the EYE to set timing, the eye was for a Ford timing tool, a holder for it
 
Cold engine needs to be "choked" which is something the computer does, so leave SPOUT connected and try to find the place, by turning distributor, where is does stay running

Engine stalling or not staying running is not a spark issue unless distributor, coil, or TFI module is bad
Spark timing makes an engine run better, more efficient, and more power
You have about 25deg where an engine will start and run, just not have power or good MPG
 
Yes, once its warmed up shut it off, unplug SPOUT, hook up timing light, loosen distributor bolt and restart

If you are getting misfires or timing light doesn't have a steady pulse, then there is another issue, could be rotor or coil or module
Spark pulse should be steady, no drops
You can use a timing light on any of the spark plug wires to test for a steady pulse, not for timing just to test that, that cylinder is getting spark like it should, steady flash of the light
It obvious when its not steady
 

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