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Need help with trailer wiring


killj0y

Well-Known Member
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Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Messages
1,532
City
Edinburg, TX
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
My credo
Fix it till its broke!
Ok so I wired in a universal wiring harness on a trailer I'm restoring and same for my truck to tow said trailer.

My problem is that I've gotten everything wired correctly on the trailer and it works. On the truck though all lights through the harness work except I have no brake lights on the trailer but they are working on the truck.

In other words the trailer has no brake lights but I did test things and see that the wires for the turn signal don't light up when braking because I have 3 bulbs brake, reverse, and signals. So am I correct in assuming this needs to be wired differently than what the tech section here says? Do I need to splice into the brake light? I spliced in where the harness comes to the test before splitting off to the separate left right tail harness.

Am I missing something? I got brown to brown black to white, orange/blue to green, and lt green/orange to yellow. Running lights work, turn signals work, but when the brake is pressed they don't get brighter. They do get brighter with the turn signal and flash, and they stay lit just not as bright without the flasher or brakes.

Any ideas?
 
If there are separate lights for the trailer or even the truck there may be a need to wire in a little piece that will allow the bulbs to integrate. Cant remember what its called but generally are found on imports with their independent turn signals. Had a simular problem on a trailer when wired for my honda goldwing and the device worked it out.

something like this converter:

http://www.etrailer.com/t1-2001_Honda_Accord.htm
 
Last edited:
hank857:

Why not link him to the Ranger version of the converter :)

http://www.etrailer.com/t1-1996_Ford_Ranger.htm

It's what I used for wiring on my '94 Ranger to tow a trailer back and forth. Best part is - because it just plugs in, no cutting, splicing or tapping required, which I figured was worth the $25.
 
It's because you have separate bulbs for brake and turn signals on the truck, and only one bulb on the trailer that does both.

I ran into the same thing with my 96 Ranger and the converter above is THE solution. It has a little circuit board that converts the 2 bulb system into a 1 bulb system. It is possible to build a converter at home but way easier just to buy one and be done with it.
 
Yes, +1 ^^^

If it is your trailer and this will be it's only tow vehicle than you could rewire trailer and change rear lamps to dual bulb.

OR

You use a 3 wire(left and right turn + Brake) to a 2 wire(left turn/brake and right turn/brake) converter
Seen here: http://www.wiringproducts.com/tail-light-converters
 
It's because you have separate bulbs for brake and turn signals on the truck, and only one bulb on the trailer that does both.

I ran into the same thing with my 96 Ranger and the converter above is THE solution. It has a little circuit board that converts the 2 bulb system into a 1 bulb system. It is possible to build a converter at home but way easier just to buy one and be done with it.
Any link on how to build one I'm pretty good with electronics.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
 
Any link on how to build one I'm pretty good with electronics.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk

If you're good you can design it yourself. Two diodes or maybe four, I forget.
 
Any link on how to build one I'm pretty good with electronics.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk

I had a diagram for it but that was years ago and I can't find it now... but yes it was just a couple diodes if I remember right. If you've got a junkyard local to you, try to see if they have a truck with a converter already installed - might be able to get it cheap, I did that and it cost me $5. Seems like converters for other Ford vehicles will work too, possibly F series, Explorer or van of roughly the same year.
 
I had a diagram for it but that was years ago and I can't find it now... but yes it was just a couple diodes if I remember right. If you've got a junkyard local to you, try to see if they have a truck with a converter already installed - might be able to get it cheap, I did that and it cost me $5. Seems like converters for other Ford vehicles will work too, possibly F series, Explorer or van of roughly the same year.
I'm seeing that on searches. Hmm that sucks my brother in law is hooking me up with like a few dozen diodes but not until later he doesn't come to town until later this year. Don't really wanna order more. Maybe radio shack still sells some
 
Not seeing how only diodes would get the job done???

Diodes allow one way flow of electricity, but have no way to turn that off or on.

You need to stop electricity(brake light power), on one side of the trailer, when that turn signal is on.
But allow electricity(brake light power) when turn signal is not on.

This one is $10: http://www.amazon.com/CURT-58240-Tail-Light-Converter/dp/B001EP0GI6?tag=959media-20

I doubt you could build one for less
 
Not seeing how only diodes would get the job done???

Diodes allow one way flow of electricity, but have no way to turn that off or on.

You need to stop electricity(brake light power), on one side of the trailer, when that turn signal is on.
But allow electricity(brake light power) when turn signal is not on.

This one is $10: http://www.amazon.com/CURT-58240-Tail-Light-Converter/dp/B001EP0GI6?tag=959media-20

I doubt you could build one for less
I'm well aware of what you're saying and I might pick that up actually. For now I located some beefy diodes and am gonna wire them in. It's temporary for sure, but it's something. Basically it will work but the turn signal won't work while braking but my trucks standard so I don't sit on the brake at stops to often so not a perfect solution but honestly where I live most trailers don't even have lights so this is at least a partial solution for now. I'll see about picking up a converter. I bet I could figure this out with diodes and relays I have laying around hmm. I saw a few diagrams using those.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
 
I'm well aware of what you're saying and I might pick that up actually. For now I located some beefy diodes and am gonna wire them in. It's temporary for sure, but it's something. Basically it will work but the turn signal won't work while braking but my trucks standard so I don't sit on the brake at stops to often so not a perfect solution but honestly where I live most trailers don't even have lights so this is at least a partial solution for now. I'll see about picking up a converter. I bet I could figure this out with diodes and relays I have laying around hmm. I saw a few diagrams using those.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk

Why not just plug and play like don4331 suggested.

http://www.etrailer.com/t1-1996_Ford_Ranger.htm

It's right behind the rear bumper on the drivers side. 2 connectors, pull them apart, and put that in between them. Bam, 3 bulb system converted to 2 bulb.

If you're running a different connector, cut the end off and wire that in as you would otherwise.

I did that on mine with this:
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/HM48470.html
 
Why not just plug and play like don4331 suggested.

http://www.etrailer.com/t1-1996_Ford_Ranger.htm

It's right behind the rear bumper on the drivers side. 2 connectors, pull them apart, and put that in between them. Bam, 3 bulb system converted to 2 bulb.

If you're running a different connector, cut the end off and wire that in as you would otherwise.

I did that on mine with this:
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/HM48470.html
Trust me that's the most tempting option but cost was the biggest factor at the moment. I got a lot of things going on and not enough money for any of them. I went with the curt unit mentioned. The reviews are so so but the price is right I'm gonna try it out and go from there. If it works great besides I've already spliced into free wires with taps so no reason not to just adjust that with this unit. I might go your route later down the road when I get a camper or something. For now it's just a utility trailer and I don't wanna spend the money if I can use it somewhere else. But what you mentioned is what I'd like to do eventually.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
 
I believe the old saying goes "Poor people can't afford to be cheap."

If the adapter works then it's worth whatever you paid for it and you don't have to deal with the frustration of the R&D on building your own or fixing it after it's been through the car wash and salty roads for a few years.

I am all for saving money on stuff but nothing irritates me more than when my trailer lights or brakes don't work and it seems to happen A LOT...the simpler those stupid things are, the better.
 
I would never use taps on my trucks tail light wiring (try to avoid them at all costs really)

I used the t-connector, no splices to get ugly down the road (and they will) and I used a connector that is better than most and has the backside filled with epoxy. Still not great, I have one off of a new (11+) Superduty IIRC on my 2002 F-150 that I really tow with that is awesome... not cheap though.
 

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