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Need Help! Lost and cant find any more options


did the leak test. Unplugged the IAC rpms dropped very low, so its not vaccum leak. I went over all the vaccum lines as well few days ago and verified all were good.
 
If engine was fully warmed up then that's good

Do you have a voltage meter and sewing pin?
You need to test the TPS and MAF sensor

With engine off key on
Use sewing pin to pierce the center wire on the TPS
Set Volt meter to DC Volts
Put black probe on battery negative or alternators case, a good ground
Put red probe on Sewing pin
You should see under 1 volt, .69 to .99 volt is spec
If over 1 volt then you will need to adjust TPS, loosen it bolts and turn it to lower the volts, if it doesn't move you will need to adjust throttle plate using the screw on throttle linkage, looks like an "idle screw" but isn't.

If under 1 volt then proceed
With meter showing under 1 volt manually open throttle and voltage should start to go up.
At WOT(wide open) center wire should show above 4.5volts, 4.5 to 5.1v is spec
Voltage needs to be smooth when opening and closing throttle, no jumping or dropping
Put on old TPS and retest if there are issues with new one

The TPS is the "accelerator pump" for fuel injection
On a carburetor there was an accelerator pump, when you pressed down on the gas pedal this pump would squirt in extra fuel to compensate for the extra air as throttle plate opened, to give the driver instant throttle response until Jets could "catch up" to fuel demand.
TPS does the same thing
MAF sensor is slow to react to air flow, when you open the throttle plate air flow at MAF will increase but there would be a delay.
TPS going up in voltage tells computer to give that "extra squirt" of fuel until MAF can "catch up"
So slow throttle response could be TPS issue


MAF sensor test
There will be a light blue/red wire, use sewing pin in that wire, thats for Red volt meter probe
Then Ground the black meter probe, battery negative or ?

Start engine, you should see under 1 volt if engine is warmed up, idle under 1,000rpm
1,000rpm should register about 1 volt
Raise RPMs and voltage should go up smoothly, about 1.5volts at 2,500rpm
MAF like TPS is about STEADY voltage, no jumping or dropping


Answer from PMs
Clogged exhaust system will show up as speed/RPM increases, at lower speed and RPMs engine would be OK but as RPMs go up back pressure builds up in exhaust system because of the blockage, if exhaust can't get out of the head then new air/fuel can't get in, so power starts to drop off and RPMs are limited to the amount of exhaust than can flow out passed the blockage.
You said above 30mph you can accelerate so I would say no, there is no blockage
Working Cats and mufflers can't hurt engine performance, outside of their weight, lol
Rangers have a tuned exhaust as well, tuned for mid-range power
 
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That sounds like a car that I bought back in 2008, almost. I started it up to take it for a test drive, put it in gear, stepped on the gas, and the engine didn't even rev. As it warmed up, it did start to rev, but that was a REALLY scary test drive! I told them I expected it to be fixed before I took delivery.

When I finally picked the car up, they *had* fixed it. The sales person was rather reluctant to tell me that the timing belt had jumped a tooth.

That being said, I'd suggest that you re-time the engine, as others have suggested.
 
I came to realize today. Before I did any work to the truck, the truck ran fine. It was slow and sluggish but no issues. So im assuming the timing is off because thats the only thing I drastically changed! So im going to redue the sncro and see if that was the issue.
 
Drove the truck to work today. Didn't even make it down the road Luckily work is also down the road haha. P0171,p0174,p1131,p1151 are my new codes Truck start sputtering hard and died on me. I tried starting it and moving it into the side street and it barley made it. Going to tow it after work don't know what to do at this point.


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I'm thinking since I don't have the p1309 code that it's possibly the EGR valve that goes into the intake manifold ? I remember taking it off was hard but putting it on was easy. Does it have to sit a certain way?


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. If that isn't seated right would it cause stuttering and lack of power ?


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Also going to check this. Vacuum line to fuel rail. Possible I didn't install it correctly when I tore off the intake manifold ??
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These 4 codes mean the same thing, P0171,p0174,p1131,p1151

Both Banks of the engine are showing Lean condition with Computers calculated fuel mix

So major vacuum leak or low fuel pressure
Low fuel pressure is looking more likely since engine died
Computer will add more fuel, as needed, if there is a vacuum leak, so you might get rough idle or hesitations and Lean codes, but not stalling while driving.
With low fuel pressure computer/engine is simply "running out of gas", so stalls

The Ford fuel pump is in the gas tank and not all that quiet
When you turn on the key you should be able to hear it run for 2 seconds, but only 2 seconds
Repeat turning key off and on to confirm you hear it running each time key is turn on
 
I Can hear the pump, its a brand new pump few months ago, ill double check the pump today by unbolting bed and jacking it up to see if anythign cam untangled
 
You said that you checked over the vacuum lines, but did you check for vacuum leaks anywhere else, such as the intake manifold or air intake hose? You can find these by letting the engine idle while you spray those areas with brake cleaner or soapy water. If the idles increases as you spray a particular area, you have found the leak. Do you hear any hissing from under the hood with the engine running?


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