Need Help, it's my DD.

[shaggys2gen]

ok, guess i will be installing a map sensor in the morning. Thanks for the info everyone, i will post after I get the map changed to let ya'll know if it fixed it. If i do have a wiring issue will it show up in the Diagnostic codes?

 

[bilzy7]

Gl, rely on mine the same. Only vehicle, hope you figure it out, tgod you can troubleshoot...

 

[kimcrwbr1]

When you pull the codes you need to fix the first code received and reset the computer. One bad sensor can throw multiple codes so you need to fix the lowest number first reset the computer to confirm the repair then go on to the next always reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 1/2 an hour. Run the KOEO test and when it starts sending you codes stop the test to erase the memory. Start the motor and run it for 20 mins and then retest when the engine is up to temp and still hot. what you want to see is 11-1-11 the first 11 is the hard faults the 1 long pause is the separator and the second 11 is the memory. Focus on the hard faults and for intermittent faults run the wiggle test it will show a code and store it into memory. It wouldnt be a bad idea and clean all the connectors (elect cleaner) inspect them and put some dielectric grease on when you put them together to protect from corrosion. Pull all the grounds apart sand them and put them back together. If it dont look right it aint. Maybe you can find another computer at the bone yard to test against, if you get the same fault with two computers you can pretty much rule out the computer the chance of two computers having the same problem is slim to none.

 

[shaggys2gen]

Well then I guess I started in the wrong order, I changed the MAP and had no change. First on the list was Code 12 & 13 -- IAC Valve.
I know it controls the Idle speed but How does it control it? from the tack rpm? The reason I ask is because when I do the KOER I can see the idle speed go up then down a couple of times slowly before it starts spitin out codes, so i think the IAC is working just not sure how well.

 

[ronclark]

Well then I guess I started in the wrong order, I changed the MAP and had no change. First on the list was Code 12 & 13 -- IAC Valve.
I know it controls the Idle speed but How does it control it? from the tack rpm? The reason I ask is because when I do the KOER I can see the idle speed go up then down a couple of times slowly before it starts spitin out codes, so i think the IAC is working just not sure how well.

You can take it off and clean it out and make sure it moves freely thy sometimes get plugged up the junk.
The ECU send pulses to the IAC which adds air to the intake to raise the RPM

 

[kimcrwbr1]

+1 on cleaning the IAC it probably dont raise the rpm high enough clean it good and reset the computer and memory also have you cleaned the throttle body take a toothbrush with some fuel and open the TB butterfly and clean the crap off the walls and butterfly at the same time then retest. keep us posted

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Just checking on if you have put a new pcv valve and breather filter if you have one. I have seen guys change every sensor in their rig when all it was was a $3 part.

 

[shaggys2gen]

I cleaned out the IAC valve and the Idle is much more stable but its still popping on acceleration. While I had it off the second time I sprayed some cleaner in the intake ports where the IAC mounts, when I started the truck it was as smooth as could be and no popping or miss at all. But it didnt last long only a minute or two. I did not have time to pull codes afterward tho, any idea's??? I am going to be forced to sell the truck if this keeps up another week or two.

 

[shaggys2gen]

Yes I cleaned the throttle body, not with a toothbrush but soaked in WD40 and then sprayed out with TB cleaned 30 min later.

 

[shaggys2gen]

Well I figured out the # 2, 4 & 6 cylinders are not firing, Getting fire to them but non responsive when I pull these three plug wires. Sounds like an injector problem? Maybe ECM bad? Which pins on the ecm connector should be grounded? Or better yet whats the easiest way to chase this problem?

 

[gsxjay]

fastest and easiest way would be to swap in the 3 injectors that you know are good and see if your miss goes to 1 3 5. but on another note i find it strange that 1 bank of the engine looses its injectors at the same time so the pcm would be very capable of causing your problem. so good luck and us posted.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

What were your compression numbers?

 

[shaggys2gen]

I dug my compression tester out but have not had time to pull the numbers yet, ive still havent gotten a day off work yet to be able to take the time to look at it, 30 days in a row. I actually pulled the plug wires sitting in the parking lot of my work and found out that when I pull the 2-4-6 it makes no change on how it runs. I remember reading somewhere that it was batch fire 1-3-5 injectors fire together and 2-4-6 fire together, so I thought I may have found my problem but I dont really know what could be causing this??

Ive already chased the grounds, They'r all hooked up correctly. I have split the loom on all the wiring to check for breaks in the wires. Unpluged all the connectors and cleaned them. What next?

kimcrwbr1, I should get this weekend off work and I will have time to check the compression.

 

[2813josh]

Do you have access to noid lights to check if the injectors are getting pulse? My truck was doing something similiar, it would run like complete garbage and then every once in a while smooth out. Turns out I was losing injector pulse because the ECM was FUBAR. Try lightly tapping on/wiggling the ECm with the truck running and see if anything changes. Can't say if this is your problem but possibly..

 

[shaggys2gen]

I actually tried to wiggle the connector a couple of days ago, it didnt make a difference. I will see if I can get a noid light this weekend.