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Need help hard to start


ingram0812

Member
Joined
May 16, 2014
Messages
14
Vehicle Year
2002
Transmission
Automatic
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 V6. I am somewhat a hobby mechanic. And I have a little bit of know how. Anyway I recently changed the following..

IAC valve
Throttle position sensor
Fuel filter
plugs and wires
cleaned MAF
Flushed radiator

It had a high idle now its fixed, but it takes forever to start and I mean forever and sometime around 5 times of cranking. please ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED.
 
Sounds like fuel pressure. Do you cycle the key on and off 3 or 4 times and then start it? Do a fuel pressure test. It is easy. Takes 15 minutes.

Check for codes randomly.

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ok thanks I will check for fuel pressure. If its low then what do I need to do? Kind of out of my expertise on this one.
 
ok thanks I will check for fuel pressure. If its low then what do I need to do? Kind of out of my expertise on this one.

You replace the pump in the tank. It is not to tough. Removing the bed is the DIY way to go. I would buy the entire unit, not just the pump.

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unit meaning regulator and pump or what.

In your truck the regulator is in the tank and part of the unit. If your pump is bad I would replace the entire "unit".

If you cycle the key on and off 4 times, will it start up?

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There is a valve on the fuel rail for testing. Hook a gauge to it and do a KOEO, KOER and a pressure hold test. Report back.

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Could just be a bad fuel filter (monday morning model) if you're getting bad fuel pressure.

You're not missing any major vacuum lines from the work?
 
all lines are good, I will try the 3 to 4 times and then start. If it does start easy is that the fuel pump. What if it does not start easy and does the same what is that.
 
If priming it a few times works, then we know the pump can build pressure. However, the fuel rail may not be holding pressure, which is why it needs to be primed a few times after it has sat for X amount of time (depending how large the leak is).

Check the fuel filter connections to ensure that it's not leaking from the new filter. Are the lines dry rotting or otherwise failing? You played with them so it may have enlarged the cracks enough for air to get in, but not for fuel to get out.

Does the truck run the same, better, or worse when it actually starts up since you did the mods/fixes?
 
Ok turned key on 5 times. Tried to start and it did better but still cranked about 5 to 6 seconds to start. Do you think I should just replace the whole pump unit
 
I turned key 5 times and it did a little better not much still took over 6 seconds to start. Lines look good from what I can tell. Should I just replace the whole pump unit. Also pump is only staying on about 2 seconds then quits.
 
I turned key 5 times and it did a little better not much still took over 6 seconds to start. Lines look good from what I can tell. Should I just replace the whole pump unit. Also pump is only staying on about 2 seconds then quits.

The pump is suppose to shut off after a few seconds. That us why we had you cycle the key. There is a good chance it is the pump but I always do the pressure tests first. It takes 10 minutes to do. Harbor freight sells them for $20 or most stores loan them out.

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There is a valve on the fuel rail for testing. Hook a gauge to it and do a KOEO, KOER and a pressure hold test. Report back.

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^^^^^^^

Relieve the pressure, screw it on and turn the key to KOEO. You will have to cycle the key a few times. Then after it goes as high as you can get it start the truck. Then turn it off and see how long it holds. Post the 3 outcomes!

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Ok where can a I get a gauge to test it. Kind of sounding like it's out of my league a bit. I was about to either drop the tank or pull the bed off. I have a new pump already.
 

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