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Need help getting to run properly


Takoda

Forum Member

Joined
Dec 10, 2024
Messages
15
Points
101
Age
27
City
Rockingham
State - Country
N/A
Vehicle Year
1985
Vehicle
Ford Ranger
Drive
4WD
Engine
2.8 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Total Lift
None
Total Drop
None
Tire Size
235/75R15
Hello, everyone. Have an '85 2.8 4x4 ranger. Have had for a year but didnt run most of the year. It was said to be about 178000 miles on it, said it needed a carb which they had the wrong one. Bought a rebuild kit and installed factory carb. Truck didnt want to run when I first got it so hence the rebuild kit. Since then I've had a rich problem and not sure how to fix this issue. If I pull the accelerator pump hose off it leans out to better running situation and also revs higher with added fuel like its supposed to rather than just dying out with extra fuel and accelerator pump still hooked up. If I could get some thoughts that would be great.
 
Welcome to TTS, Takoda!

Some of of our members with carb experience will be sure to assist you as their schedule allows.
 
Welcome to TTS, Takoda!

Some of of our members with carb experience will be sure to assist you as their schedule allows.
Thanks so much.
 
It seems there was a flurry of activity in other threads and your query got pushed down.

Can someone with carb experience help this fellow out?

Thanks!
 
Not an expert by any means on carburetors, however, I was just having a rich condition on my '84 BII and the first thing I will ask you is if you've checked the spark plugs themselves to validate the rich condition? Just trying to gauge where you're at on this.
 
Not an expert by any means on carburetors, however, I was just having a rich condition on my '84 BII and the first thing I will ask you is if you've checked the spark plugs themselves to validate the rich condition? Just trying to gauge where you're at on this.
Didn't show a rich condition but more like fowling. Changed out plugs to a set i had taken out when I got it. Did change them when I got it. I assume rich because of it wanting to die at idle when sprayed with brake cleaner. Can try new plugs if you think it'd help. Just dont want to fowl more brand new plugs. Lol these are the last ones I took out. And all look just like this one.
 

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Without knowing much more, I'd say you were probably right to change out the old plugs anyway-- unless I have documentation to indicate otherwise, as a habit I always do full service on any vehicle I buy, down to the last drop of fluid. In this case I doubt a spark plug change is warranted.

Will you tell us what happens when you start the truck, especially what comes out of the tailpipe?
 
Without knowing much more, I'd say you were probably right to change out the old plugs anyway-- unless I have documentation to indicate otherwise, as a habit I always do full service on any vehicle I buy, down to the last drop of fluid. In this case I doubt a spark plug change is warranted.

Will you tell us what happens when you start the truck, especially what comes out of the tailpipe?
I did do a service on count of antifreeze leak and the amount of time it sat. Which also warranted the carb rebuild. And not much comes out. But its very rough at idle. Ive messed with the air/fuel screws a bunch but they are sitting a turn and a half out as I believe is the setting.
 
I did do a service on count of antifreeze leak and the amount of time it sat. Which also warranted the carb rebuild. And not much comes out. But its very rough at idle. Ive messed with the air/fuel screws a bunch but they are sitting a turn and a half out as I believe is the setting.
I can also check again when I get off to be sure nothing comes out the pipe
 
I'll make a few other suggestions while I'm here. They're just starting points.

Misadjusted choke?
Carb float level (I had this issue at first)
O2 sensors
Fuel pressure
Vacuum leaks
EGR valve stuck closed
Temp sensors
The plugs would typically be black or sooty, there will probably be a raw fuel smell especially out of the tailpipe, and the tailpipe may expell black smoke if it's running very rich.

Again, not an expert, but these are things I can think of.
 
I'll make a few other suggestions while I'm here. They're just starting points.

Misadjusted choke?
Carb float level (I had this issue at first)
O2 sensors
Fuel pressure
Vacuum leaks
EGR valve stuck closed
Temp sensors
The plugs would typically be black or sooty, there will probably be a raw fuel smell especially out of the tailpipe, and the tailpipe may expell black smoke if it's running very rich.

Again, not an expert, but these are things I can think of.
I will check into these things over the next couple days and get back here. Thank you
 
I can also check again when I get off to be sure nothing comes out the pipe
Just a small puff of white smoke came out of the tailpipe pipe when I left work.
 
Someone can chime in, but I suspect that it goes black when it's very rich as opposed to just slightly.
 
Did your kit have a silicone or leather accelerator pump seal? In the old 1948 world the original was leather and the rebuild kits are all trash, they don't work right. I rebuilt my carb 3x before I gave up and swapped the accelerator pump seal back to the old leather one. (I had a problem where it would bog down and want to die if I touched the accelerator at all).
Your first post details some around the accelerator pump, but I am not following it exactly.

I would also ask how you settled at the best idle mix and adjustments. 1 turn from either top or bottom sounds way off (at least way way off at my elevation). I learned to use a vacuum gauge to set your idle mix adjusting slowly and incrementally until you achieve highest vacuum from an old codger that was born and raised on carbs.
 
Someone can chime in, but I suspect that it goes black when it's very rich as opposed to just slightly.
That was my impression as well. Just thought it might be rich on count of wanting to die with brake clean.
 

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