Need help! Frustrating 3.0 Money Pit

[Just_Randy]

I have a 1997 Ranger 3.0 4x4 5-speed

I had a p0401 (EGR), p0340 (Cam Sensor), and p1443 (Not sure what this is,,, I've read it could be as simple as a gas cap).

I put a new DPFE EGR thingy on. I put a new cam synchro (a rebuilt oem from autozone) and sensor on. The truck runs EXACTLY the same. Rough idle and stumbles a bit just off idle. When I pull out of the driveway it doesn't want to go until I get the revs up.... Then it takes off! Upper mid-range and topend pull strong. Its prone to overheating as well.... Especially if the AC is on.

So, today I removed the EGR tube and cleaned it really well. I verified the EGR valve is working. I also removed and cleaned the MAF sensor with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and gentle compressed air (it didn't look dirty anyway). Still no change.

I have nice steady vacuum (I have a vac gauge in the cab while driving). I have good compression. Nice clean plugs. No obvious electric problems.....

What do I do next? I feel like I'm just throwing money away and the truck never runs any different.


Btw,,, here are the pics of my cam syncho n sensor.... You'd think it would run a little different after fixing that! But nope.

 

[AllanD]

Ok, what I REALLY know about EEC5 is possible to write inside a matchbook
with a crayon.

But did you time the new cam synchronizer on installation?

Also when you say it only runs well when you get it going define?
At what rpm does it start to pull well?

AD

 

[Big Jim M]

From the looks of them I'd think you insttalled the WRONG sensor..
Big JIm

 

[Just_Randy]

Ok, what I REALLY know about EEC5 is possible to write inside a matchbook
with a crayon.

But did you time the new cam synchronizer on installation?

I follwed this exactly: http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2004/techtips.htm

I used a compass and lined it up with 26 degrees BTC and then cirlced around to the other side of the damper and made a mark. The rest was pretty straight forward.

Also when you say it only runs well when you get it going define?
At what rpm does it start to pull well?

AD

About 2500 rpm or so is when it kicks in. Under that there is a major lack of power. Its almost like somebody turn the brakes off at that rpm. I know the 3.0 doesn't pull well anyway under 3000, but I think this is a little too much of a lag.

 

[Just_Randy]

From the looks of them I'd think you insttalled the WRONG sensor..
Big JIm

I was thinking the same thing when I first saw them, but a friend of mine works at autozone.... so he's not the typical goofballs you run into. However, that doesn't mean their computers aren't wrong.

I figured the longer arc didn't really matter because its the change from "no metal" to "metal" at 26 degrees is all that matters.

Also, the Ford parts numbers cast into them match exactly. So, that made me feel a bit better.

 

[Just_Randy]

See.... The part numbers are the same.

 

[StreetRanger01]

Have you checked your IAC Valve. When the truck is running just unplug it and you should noticed a difference in how it runs. If it doesn't run worse then that could be your issue. Also, this may sound really dumb but make sure your air box is closed properly. I was having an issue with my truck running back and it turned out to be the air box was just not on completely, couldn't even notice without really paying attention to it.

 

[Just_Randy]

Thanks, I'll try that as soon as I get it all put back together. I'm replacing a rear main seal now.... That's a BIG job! I had to use a scissor jack to push the tranny away from the engine because there is a cross-member that is riveted to the frame. It would barely squeeze thru.

I can tell not much thought went into designing this truck. Its like they just took parts laying around n decided to try to make a truck out of them. I like the looks of the truck and the way it drives, but NOT the engineering. There are as many "known issues" as microsoft has with its OS!

 

[Big Jim M]

I'm sorry Randy...But I just cannot see how those two syncros can do the same job. The worn one seems to to be so different from the new one that from here the new one cannot replace it.. Mayhaps the ford guy has one to look at?
Wouldn't be the first time the part numbers were incorrect for a particular engine..
On the other hand you have them there to look at so you are prolly a much better judge tham anyone looking at the photos.
Big JIm

 

[Just_Randy]

The only way I could know for sure is to understand how the sensor works. Why did the original sensor have only 45 degrees (or so) of metal while the new one had a full 180? What's the job of the sensor anyway??? There's already a crank sensor and the cam n crank are hooker together! Its about like having a speedometer on the front and back wheels of a bicycle.

 

[Big Jim M]

The only way I could know for sure is to understand how the sensor works. Why did the original sensor have only 45 degrees (or so) of metal while the new one had a full 180? What's the job of the sensor anyway??? There's already a crank sensor and the cam n crank are hooker together! Its about like having a speedometer on the front and back wheels of a bicycle.

Yeah! My point zackly.. Maybe we should find out what IS going on with that sensor.. WHY would so many degrees be different in the two? If you can find another new one somewhere else maybe there is a diference..
Big Jim

 

[thegoat4]

The cam synchro sensor is a hall-effect sensor. It senses ripples in its magnetic field due to the flag passing by. The engine is only interested in the beginning of that blip, not the end of it, so the flag can be just about as long as you want without being a full circle.

Ford probably went with a wider flag to prevent the failure you see in the old sensor. That narrow flag could get folded over and crash into the sensor pickup. The new flag won't fold over without having to be ripped loose.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall-Effect

[edit: as far as having two sensors--one for the cam, one for the crank--the crank spins two full revolutions per one revolution of the cam, so there's no way to put a tone wheel on the crank that'll let you know whether #1 is on TDC compression or TDC between exhaust and intake. And trying to read engine RPM from the cam sensor, with its one flag whirling at 1/2 speed, would be too inaccurate. ECMs like to know egine speed on an as-close-to-instantaneous-as-possible basis. So, one sensor for engine speed, one sensor for timing.]

 

[Big Jim M]

The cam synchro sensor is a hall-effect sensor. It senses ripples in its magnetic field due to the flag passing by. The engine is only interested in the beginning of that blip, not the end of it, so the flag can be just about as long as you want without being a full circle.

Ford probably went with a wider flag to prevent the failure you see in the old sensor. That narrow flag could get folded over and crash into the sensor pickup. The new flag won't fold over without having to be ripped loose.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall-Effect

[edit: as far as having two sensors--one for the cam, one for the crank--the crank spins two full revolutions per one revolution of the cam, so there's no way to put a tone wheel on the crank that'll let you know whether #1 is on TDC compression or TDC between exhaust and intake. And trying to read engine RPM from the cam sensor, with its one flag whirling at 1/2 speed, would be too inaccurate. ECMs like to know egine speed on an as-close-to-instantaneous-as-possible basis. So, one sensor for engine speed, one sensor for timing.]

Seems to me you aren't thegoat..You are the MAN.. You have splained it well..Thanks.
Big Jim

 

[Just_Randy]

Yes, well done goat! Thanks!

I was thinking the longer arc didn't matter. I figured as long as the beginning lined up with the 26 degree mark on the crank, that's all that mattered.

...And I totally spaced the fact that TDC is different on compression and exhaust and there's no way to tell that from the crank alone.