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Need help determining drop


Jebadoo

Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2011
Messages
17
City
Central PA
Vehicle Year
1994
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
2" maybe?
Tire Size
245/60/14 Rear, 205/70/14 Front
My credo
4 Rangers so far. I work IT and enjoy the torture.
I recently purchased a 94 Mazda B3000 2wd long bed that runs REALLY decent however, it was lowered in a really janky partially unknown way.

Supposedly there are some sort of Jeep coils in the front and only one leaf (the middle one) was removed in the rear "to make it ride better". I need someone to take me measurements of a stock (or close to it) one from ground to middle of the wheel arches.

My measurements are as followed:

Front ground to middle of wheel arch: 27 1/4"
Rear ground to middle of wheel arch: 27 3/4

The truck has 205/70/14 on the front and 245/60/14 on the rear. A pic of the truck for reference:

truck.jpg


I really dont want to go back to stock suspension just to turn around and lower it again eventually if I dont have to. I'd rather just replace the shocks with the proper length ones and put new bushings in the rear springs. It also needs aligned because the toe is out I believe and there's noticeable camber in the front

224bfa4b-e427-49e2-ba1f-7a3da535f00c.jpg
c4187bf1-9352-459a-b000-3d64f97d4823.jpg


Thanks!
 
You are going to have trouble getting it aligned. It may be possible with different camber bushings that have a greater range of adjustment. But the TIB front end doesn't lower or raise politely by changing springs. The springs they put in have a lower load rating. So, they changed the load capacity of the front suspension. The best way to lower a TIB suspension is with different or modified axle beams, OR with offset steering knuckles designed for lowering it. Not sure if anyone even makes lowering knuckles for it. I have heard of people getting "dream beams" for lowering it.

On the rear, again, with that leaf missing, your load capacity is changed. It would be better to reinstall the missing leeafs and flip the rear spring hangars and shackles or switch to having the springs mounted under the axle instead of above it. The easiest way to do that is by swapping in an Explorer axle which has all the brackets already set up for a "spring under" design.

 
wow, they really lowered that truck. other than the camber on the front, it looks good.

fix that front and i would run it that way. thats how i want my truck to end up, or lower if i can get it.
 
Honestly the camber doesnt bother me, with proper toe, itll probably be fine. But it's running stock length shocks and theyre all blown out due to the drop.

If my measurements from the other guys are right, I think it's a 2/5 drop or like 2/4.5

Its within 1/2" front to back, so its almost 100% level lol
 
Honestly the camber doesnt bother me, with proper toe, itll probably be fine. But it's running stock length shocks and theyre all blown out due to the drop.

If my measurements from the other guys are right, I think it's a 2/5 drop or like 2/4.5

Its within 1/2" front to back, so its almost 100% level lol
Camber, caster and toe all work together to give proper performance, safety and minimal tire wear. Proper length shocks would also be a wise choice. These trucks can be lowered without sacrificing safety and tire wear. But, if you're rich and don't care, go for it. Its your truck. I'm just trying to answer questions and provide info so you can do it right. Once you get the geometry correct, these things are pretty easy to align at home.

 
Yeah, dreambeams are pretty much the only way to lower a tib truck and keep proper camber. Shocks and springs are both stock length with that method. There not exactly cheap.. but still super reasonable considering what they are.. 550$ or something.

Stock length shocks aren't a problem with your setup by the way.. it's still operating within it's engineered range.. just lower.
 
Camber, caster and toe all work together to give proper performance, safety and minimal tire wear. Proper length shocks would also be a wise choice. These trucks can be lowered without sacrificing safety and tire wear. But, if you're rich and don't care, go for it. Its your truck. I'm just trying to answer questions and provide info so you can do it right. Once you get the geometry correct, these things are pretty easy to align at home.


The other option is just return it to stock all around, which I'm tempted to do so I can use it like a truck again lol
 
The other option is just return it to stock all around, which I'm tempted to do so I can use it like a truck again lol

Booooooooo!

Need a truck to do truck things? That's just an excuse for a 2nd ranger 😀
 
I think i am just going to return it to stock and just throw 225/70/15s on it.

It's only got a 3.0 and 3.45s so I can't go too big
 
I think i am just going to return it to stock and just throw 225/70/15s on it.

It's only got a 3.0 and 3.45s so I can't go too big
That will work. Is it auto or manual? 3.73 or 4.10 gears behind that 3.0 and it'll be a fun truck to drive.
 
Looked and it's lowered way too low, it's sitting on the bump stops in the front.

That's why it rides so rough
 
find a 4.10 rear end. thats what my 3.0 has with the 5 speed and its fun to drive, not a dog at all.

and you can unscrew the bump stops form the front to get another 2 inches of clearance between the arms and the frame. i took mine off last weekend
 
find a 4.10 rear end. thats what my 3.0 has with the 5 speed and its fun to drive, not a dog at all.

and you can unscrew the bump stops form the front to get another 2 inches of clearance between the arms and the frame. i took mine off last weekend

I'm going to get the suspension back to stock and start there. I'd love to switch to 3.73 or 4.10 but that will be later on down the road. I kinda like the fuel mileage at the moment.

I'm not going to remove the bump stops and see how it does for fear it may lower it even more (most likely) and make it impossible to get a jack underneath it again lol
 
what do you get for gas mileage right now? i get 19-21 doing 80-85 on the highway. my in town gas mileage is not as good because its all stop and go driving waiting in long lines to get on base. and its only 2 miles from my house to work with the first 3/4 mile of it being bumper to bumper line. i get like 16 in town with the no fun driving i have for work
 

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