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Need help bleeding clutch


RescueRanger

Well-Known Member
Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Nov 14, 2009
Messages
53
City
NM
Vehicle Year
2000, 89
Transmission
Automatic
Okay i put in a new clutch disc and slave and when i open the bleeder on slave the fluid does not gravity thru very good it just trickles so i open bleeder then have wife push clutch pedal then i close bleeder before she lets up on it and fluid will come out but it still doesnt flow out on its own very well and when trying to put it in gear with truck running clutch pushed in and it doesnt grind but it doesnt fall into gear either its kinda tough to push in you kinda have to jiggle it a bit but when truck is off it will go into gear easily so any ideas on what i need to do thanks
 
Drive it for a few days. See if it bleeds itsself. It won't always get perfect with the bleeder screw. It isn't really meant to be bled like brakes.
 
I had to replace the line on mine and after a few days of sitting on its own (with bleeder closed) it bled itself - these are a pita - and may recommend bench bleeding - or removing the entire master and line and bleeding then reinstalling - but mu vote is just keep trapping on the line and it will eventually blurp up air bubbles.
 
you still have air remove the master from the firewall tilt it upside down and then bleed it.its a pain that way but look at how the hoses are.air gets trapped in there.
 
There is an excellent video on UTube offered by Perfection Clutch on how to bleed this brake system. It is a bench bleed video, but you will see how the air gets trapped. I suspect when you opened the quick connect coupler to replace the clutch, some air got in. I moved up the pressure hose towards the master. It is trapped in one of the bends on that hose. I suggest taping the hose bends, the plastic bends, while you have the bleed screw opened, hopefully the bubbles will move down the hose, thru the slave and out the bleed screw. If this fails, try removing the master from the firewall as stated earlier in this thread, and point it down and try to bleed again. It is possible to remove the master from the vehicle with that long clutch rod locked into the master, but WOW, really hard to get it out and back in. I did it 2 weeks ago, but I wouldn't want to try it again for fear of breaking the rod or the master. I agree with the others who said drive for a few days, because trapped air will eventually move, and then it might bleed out in a few days. But go see that video to understand what you are dealing with.
 
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thanks for all the info, I checked out that video and it is very informative. this vehicle is not my daily driver so right now it is just sitting in my garage so this weekend I may try to bleed it some more and then next week I will try driving it to work everyday, so does it do any good to have some one push in on the clutch and open the bleeder or is it better to just gravity bleed and tap on the line?
 
okay so I ended up pulling the master cylinder out and bench bleeding it per the you tube video I got some air bubbles out and it got to where I couldnt push in with a screw driver so put it back in and tried gravity bleeding thru slave and it feels a little better but it still hangs up a bit going into gear I dont know maybe Im being too picky but it seems like it should go in a little easier also when you pump the pedal you can hear the master cylinder and it sounds like it might be sucking air back in? how can you tell if the mc is bad?
 
drive it for a few days. If the problem persists, replace the master cylinder, just because its a lot easier than the slave to change.
 

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