Need Advice... DANA 30 SAS...

[bullitproofranger]

Hi everyone, I need advice on something. I have a '90 Ranger XLT 2wd LB, 2.3 and 95% I have an M5od, I want 4wd on my truck because I would like to have an advantage come snow and ice time, and in spring/summer I would like to be less worried going in mud. My plan is to use a Dana 30( I am aware of some of their flaws) because it seems to be cheap and dependable enough to have a decent 4wd setup with. Problem is I am not sure on a few things, can I go with coil springs or would leafs be simpler? The Central Axle Disconnect, if I have no vacuum line running to it, when I engage 4WD will it turn 1 or both front axles? I want to keep the swap as simple as possible more so with the steering, could I keep my front tie rod or could I use the on from the vehicle I pull the axle from?

 

[dangerranger83]

If I were you I would try to find one without the CAD on it. Leaves would be easier but you already have the coil buckets on your truck and everything beasiclly lines up with coils. It just depends on your level of fab. skills, budget and what you want. Look up some SAS threads on here.

 

[rangertoy]

If you do get a d30 with the CAD on it , there is a kit that you can buy that will convert it to use a cable (kinda like a manual choke cable), from what I understand the best years to get a d30 is a 96-98 XJ jeep. I would use coils, but I like coils, leaves are easier though. When you get the front end try to get one with all the steering still on it all you have to change is the TRE at the pitman arm to a end from a ranger. PM me if you need any help will gladly give advice.

 

[Toreadorranger]

If the axle has CAD on in dont bother with the cable kit. Get a axle shaft from a non CAD axle and make a block off plate for the CAD unit, or if you want to be really cheap. Shim the shift fork over so that it is always engaged.

Leafs arent easier if your already setup for coils, get some weld on wedges and stock radius arms from a ford.

 

[bullitproofranger]

So a Dana 30 will pretty much "bolt up" with coils with little modification? I just want to be able to do the swap with as little modifications as possible and have basic 4wd(until I get more $$$). Also just want to clarify, I could use the Dana 30's tie rod and adapt it to the rangers steering arm? I just want to be safe with this setup, because this truck will be a daily driver.

 

[dangerranger83]

The D30 is pretty much a "bolt in" thing with coils and a little bit of fab work. Yes you use the D30 steering linkage and it will hook up to the rangers pitman arm as long as you get a ranger tie rod end and put it on the D30 steering linkage, if not you will have alot of play in the steering. As for the part number for the tie rod end I dont know about that as I am still doing research on that due to me doing this swap next spring or mabey this winter in my garage.

Oh ya this is my 1000th post so hope it helps you out.

 

[bullitproofranger]

Thanks all, I do plan on coils now, thanks for the tie rod setup info, I just didn't want to go down the highway someday at 75 mph and all of a sudden my steering fails!!! I will post a thread when I start putting it on the ranger, it may be a couple months though.

 

[Rangeraddict]

For The steering I do believe you can use the front left?? TRE from your factory steering just cut some threads off of it and you are good to go. not 100% sure on what side its from but it needs LH threads

 

[kroussinoffroad]

none of my tre's were correct
for now i plan on cutting my drag link and and the jeep to match then welding and sleeving it for now until i can get the high steer kit from terra flex which will convert it to 1tone tre's

 

[Ozwynn]

if you haven't already bought a D30

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67137

and

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67135

 

[bullitproofranger]

Would it be easier to weld a couple of brackets on the D30 to use the stock (2wd) radius arms, or to try to adapt the cherokees type of setup to my ranger(I would perfer radius arms), oh yea would I have to modify the crossmember for the drive shaft?

 

[kroussinoffroad]

well my sas is well under way if you want to check out my radius arms. its in the rbv under destruction forum listed as 94 b4000 dana 30 swap.. by the way i got the tre to work cant remember what side i used but i had t o spread out the coupler with a punch to get the threads to start

sorry if this is concidered jacking someone elses post

 

[bullitproofranger]

Don't worry about thread jacking, that thread of yours has give me a little bit better idea of how I am planning on doing it! by the way your trucik doesn't look half bad for a 94, mines a 90 and at first glance it looks like something someone might take to the scrapyard (paint, clearcoat is peeling off, bedsides are a disaster, the front clip is not so pretty either, but after I fix a few things on the 2.3 It should be driveable, but not street legal though)

 

[bobbywalter]

now that the long arms have come down so far in price, i cant see guys not running the 410 mopar jk axle with the locker in it....best 1600 bux you could do in imo. its stronger then a reg 44 and will have a shit ton of support eventually.


but the d30 is way way way cost effective now.....guys can realistically do this swap for 6-800 bux nearly bolt in. actually it is bolt in depending on how you do the frame/ t bar mount.


personally with a 4cyl daily driver i would run a cad axle so i can keep d shaft vibes down.

 

[Mudhound]

A reason that the JK axle is not so popular, even with the Jeep crowd is that it uses the BIG chevy bolt pattern, 5 on 5. It is also an odd ball width for the majority of folks to run, as you end up having to get the matching axle to keep your track width anywhere close to equal, and parts for it are still stupid priced, as it is a new player to the field. I do agree, that with time, the cost of parts will come down, but the initial headaches of ownership are overweighing, I feel.