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Need a metal workers opinion on what to use.


Agree with Jolene, the thin stuff may be strong enough but it is a PITA to weld.
 
I couldn't see the sketch that was posted, but having just installed the oem brackets they're cast iron and beefy.
In my google searches i came across this photo of someone who fabbed their own brackets and used harbor freight lights.
29254

Looks like they just used a quarter inch steel angle. Seems sturdy enough to me.
 
I couldn't see the sketch that was posted, but having just installed the oem brackets they're cast iron and beefy.
In my google searches i came across this photo of someone who fabbed their own brackets and used harbor freight lights.
View attachment 29254
Looks like they just used a quarter inch steel angle. Seems sturdy enough to me.

I had found this one also, here on TRS, and put a link in one of my posts. While one bolt to the bumper bracket would hold the light like this guy did, my fist thought is, wont the angle iron turn shifting the light to one side a bit? I would have 2 easy options: 1. tack weld the angle iron to bumper bracket to hold it still, not may favorite option. And 2. make the bracket longer cut and beat the angle into it then weld the seam and use the second bolt hole. While it's more work the bracket wont turn and it would be usable on other brackets. The previous owner hit a a sand pile and tweaked the bumper so new brackets may be in the future but welding this project to the old ones seems a waste. At least that is my thoughts.
 
I had found this one also, here on TRS, and put a link in one of my posts. While one bolt to the bumper bracket would hold the light like this guy did, my fist thought is, wont the angle iron turn shifting the light to one side a bit? I would have 2 easy options: 1. tack weld the angle iron to bumper bracket to hold it still, not may favorite option. And 2. make the bracket longer cut and beat the angle into it then weld the seam and use the second bolt hole. While it's more work the bracket wont turn and it would be usable on other brackets. The previous owner hit a a sand pile and tweaked the bumper so new brackets may be in the future but welding this project to the old ones seems a waste. At least that is my thoughts.
The oem brackets use the second bolt hole, so your option #2 would make better sense. You could also just bolt the same size steel angle into the first hole and bolt some flat stock to the second hole, tack where they meet and weld on the outside. Makes it easier instead of beating the angle into a long piece to begin with.
 
The oem brackets use the second bolt hole, so your option #2 would make better sense. You could also just bolt the same size steel angle into the first hole and bolt some flat stock to the second hole, tack where they meet and weld on the outside. Makes it easier instead of beating the angle into a long piece to begin with.
Thanks, now that you said that it make mores sense and less physical work to tack flat stock to it.
 
OK here's the update to this project. The valance is in, painted and installed.

Before the face lift...
qV9DzXjh.jpg


Without paint...
aqksaBih.jpg


With paint... Yea not a huge difference but at least now its not a different color than the rest of the trim on this truck. You can really see the difference between the bumper strip and the new valance's factory color. ?
MDuABb2h.jpg


Ok I know my phones camera really is the next best thing to useless but it works... kinda. When I went to get this phone I asked for a Moto Z so I could get the camera attachment but walked out with a $200 bottom of the barrel phone... Hind sight is 20\20 right? SO back to the proper subject:

Just ordered up a set of smoked lights (link)that should be here this Thursday. ( does the little happy dance ) Once here I can mock up the lights so I can then decide how to make the brackets. I'm looking at this weekend to really "start" fabricating up some brackets.

(EDIT) resized pics for better visual.
 
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those 3 pics look no different, but lighting, to me.
 
Yeah you might want to get some zoomed in pictures where the sun isn't distorting the brightness
 
those 3 pics look no different, but lighting, to me.
Ok to help make it easier for everyone I'll point out the differences:

1st pic, Just after I got the truck, still has the the 2WD valance and splitter, Right head light is yellow, Crack in the chrome above the grill with missing and fadded chrome trim around the directional's.

2nd pic, Has 4X4 valance (color grey/tan-ish), right headlight replaced, Still has the damaged Chrome trim ( look just to the right of the ford logo on the grill and you will see the crack in the chrome trim)

3rd pic, Valance painted Black, All new chrome trim, new right headlight, painted the raised inner part of the grill purple to match rims ( grill looks thinner at a distance now), painted bumper strip so everything matches. Still need to order up the plate holder though.
 
Yeah you might want to get some zoomed in pictures where the sun isn't distorting the brightness

Its my camera its like a 5mp, the quality is atrocious.
 
Yours came out really nice where as when I tried to restore my right headlight the yellowing was on the inside. So for ease and not wanting to try and split my lens and housing I just replaced it, $20 for a TYC from Rock Auto made the decision so much easier. The original owner of my truck chose to replace the driver side because of yellowing, adding in my headlight adjusters were cracked and froze I chose to replace it all rather than fight with it.

From what yours looked like, from your pictures and details from when you got it, yours has gotten some serious love also. :headbang: I'm interested in seeing your truck evolve.

As I was replacing the passenger side head light I came across some tattletale signs that that corner, passenger side, has been fixed/repainted. There was body color paint on the adjusters for that corner, from the factory there wouldn't be any, which means at the minimum this corner of the truck was repainted... Kinda bummed because I was hoping it was factory paint but on the bright side though, the original owner took good care of it.
 
Yours came out really nice where as when I tried to restore my right headlight the yellowing was on the inside. So for ease and not wanting to try and split my lens and housing I just replaced it, $20 for a TYC from Rock Auto made the decision so much easier. The original owner of my truck chose to replace the driver side because of yellowing, adding in my headlight adjusters were cracked and froze I chose to replace it all rather than fight with it.

From what yours looked like, from your pictures and details from when you got it, yours has gotten some serious love also. :headbang: I'm interested in seeing your truck evolve.

As I was replacing the passenger side head light I came across some tattletale signs that that corner, passenger side, has been fixed/repainted. There was body color paint on the adjusters for that corner, from the factory there wouldn't be any, which means at the minimum this corner of the truck was repainted... Kinda bummed because I was hoping it was factory paint but on the bright side though, the original owner took good care of it.
Thanks I appreciate that!

Yeah makes sense, better to just buy new when they're cheap enough. I just wanted to see if I could do it Haha. Mine were easy enough. I've posted a bunch on my IG, just trying to capture the process. At the end of the day, the small details matter, at least for me. Maybe I'll do a build thread, I'm not decided yet.

Yeah the truck could have had a respray or the corner may have had an incident. Either way, if it's not super noticeable on the outside you're good.
 
I stopped at my local Tractor Supply and grabbed 2" X 48" X 1/8" thick angle iron for the brackets. They didn't have a shorter piece so I had to grab the 48" or drive a few towns over to go to Ribco Supply for it. Tractor Supply was quicker and cheaper because of price of gas, disabled and on a budget here so frugal is the word for this project. Splitting the angle iron down its spine gave me the flat stock I needed to weld in to use the second bolt hole. The First thing I will need to do at this point is mark the bolt hole for the fog lights... Need them first so holding pattern till they arrive. Sadly I only had a small amount of flat black primer so they temporarily got sprayed purple till fully welded at which point I will have picked up more flat black and flat black primer for finish painting.
0eTqHsr.jpg


I almost feel like I'm in one of Edgar Allen Poe's poems on this project, Step by step, Inch by inch it is getting done.... A Rap, Rap Rapping At The Door (hoping that it's the lights being here)

If any one is interested in making a set: The angle Iron (2" wide and 1/8 thick) is 3-3/4" long and Flat stock is 1-3/4". I will need to cut and grind the angle in the flat stock but I need the angle Iron bolted first to know the angle needed, sadly in a holding pattern at this point. Ugg I want to keep going on it!! Excitement sets in here in my domicile.
 

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