My wifes Honda is making noise Uhghh....

[Jim Oaks]

My wife has a 2001 Honda Civic.

I hate it.

For the last year it's made this strange noise at the left front wheel turning. It sounds like something rubbing on metal. Thin metal, like a brake backing plate. You only hear it at higher speeds like going around a bend.

Now, the noise is more constant and sounds like a thumping noise when she slows to a stop. There isn't any pulsating in the pedal.

Someone told me a year ago that it probably needed a new left front axle.

I don't know anything about front wheel drive cars.

Anyone ever worked on a Honda Civic?

 

[dusto2]

check the outer cv joint if it happens on turns more than likely its a torn boot that is missing all its grease common thing for high mileage ones done lots of axles in front drive cars

 

[Mark_88]

+1 -- Those boots tear easily after they get old...just did my Suzuki and one side cost $400...but the civic CV should be less....

 

[dusto2]

ya about 100 to 120 pending were you go alot of them are being made brand new now so you wont get a core charge those are the ones my store sells here

 

[Hahnsb2]

I would also say CV joint.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Hmmm....

Looks like Autozone wants $90.00 for a 'CV Halfshaft'.

Wonderful. I need to get new front brake pads for the F-150 too.

I told her I would look at it tomarrow.

 

[srteach]

A click-click when turning one way or the other is what indicates CV problems. You can get a CV boot kit and replace the boot and grease if the joint is not too bad. They cost about $18 from carquest, should be similar cost with other stores. The boot replacement is only worth it if you have a torn boot, and the CV joint is in decent condition.

To remove the axle, release the lower control arm (both ball joint and bottom of the strut), remove a 1 1/4 inch ( I think that's the correct size) nut off the axle shaft (center of wheel, and has a bent part of the lip to keep it there), lever the suspension outward and yank the shaft out of the transaxle.

If you want to re-pack the CV joint, put the axle in a vise and beat the outer joint off the axle (literally, it's kept on the shaft by a circular spring, which is replaced as part of the kit). The cage / bearings can be removed, the cup cleaned, and put back together, put the supplied grease back in the cup, and shove it back on the axle. Put it back in the car.

It is easiest to buy a replacement half-shaft. Then you don't have to disassemble the shaft, you just replace it. I have literally done these 4 times each on different cars, not as a job. PM if you need help from 3000 miles away.

 

[dusto2]

if it is already making noise its shot a new boot is a band aid on a wound that needs stitches

 

[Jspafford]

Shame you didn't check that boot when you first heard the noise. If the metal clamp that holds it tight was loose you may have been able to repair it before it let all the contaminants in.

Assuming that is the problem.

 

[kunar]

i dont think its an axle shaft, that would be more of a "click click click" under acceleration with the wheel turned. put that corner on a jack and check for free play, i suppose it could be a bearing. other than that i would be checking for something in the brakes. maybe something dragging or moving around because something is worn out.

 

[snake]

If you have to remove the shaft, once it is ready to come out it must be pryed out of the transaxle. It has a spring clip inside- you just get between the tranny and the inner CV with a big screwdriver and pry it out against the clip. Getting it back in you have to shove the hell out of it until it clicks in place. Make damn sure it is locked back in before you put it all back together. Easily checked- if you can pull it back out without being pried it ain't in there correctly. This is NOT a hard or bad job or even time consuming. Don't be intimidated because its a jap car.

One more thing, if you don't buy a pre-assembled unit, put everything back in place without connecting the big inner boot clamp. Once it is all back together, make sure there isn't pressure or vacuum in the boot and then install the clamp. It should keep unneccesary air pressure off of the boot and aviod premature failure. Honda boot clamps are easier than most- they work like fire extinguisher brackets- lean a corner in, fold over and secure. You will see after this job that Honda does keep their stuff simple.

Edit- don't take those bolts off of the struts or it will need a front end alignment. You have to remove the tie rod end and disconnect the balljoint, but NOT the strut bolts! Do it right and the front end stays in line.

 

[flyingbrick]

A click-click when turning one way or the other is what indicates CV problems. You can get a CV boot kit and replace the boot and grease if the joint is not too bad. They cost about $18 from carquest, should be similar cost with other stores. The boot replacement is only worth it if you have a torn boot, and the CV joint is in decent condition.

To remove the axle, release the lower control arm (both ball joint and bottom of the strut), remove a 1 1/4 inch ( I think that's the correct size) nut off the axle shaft (center of wheel, and has a bent part of the lip to keep it there), lever the suspension outward and yank the shaft out of the transaxle.

If you want to re-pack the CV joint, put the axle in a vise and beat the outer joint off the axle (literally, it's kept on the shaft by a circular spring, which is replaced as part of the kit). The cage / bearings can be removed, the cup cleaned, and put back together, put the supplied grease back in the cup, and shove it back on the axle. Put it back in the car.

It is easiest to buy a replacement half-shaft. Then you don't have to disassemble the shaft, you just replace it. I have literally done these 4 times each on different cars, not as a job. PM if you need help from 3000 miles away.

Just drain the trans fluid first, ask how i know.

 

[mkpecor]

look under the car and see if the boots are ripped, but ya when cv boots rip and if you let it go for a while the axle will start makeing a racheting sound, click, click , click, they are a itch to get out some times.

 

[Capt Jay]

click, click, click=cv axle
grind=bearings

On a Honda they are both relatively easy to change. If a cv boot is split, change it NOW. I used to check the cv boots every time I did an oil change. Just check in the valleys of the boot for tears. If you do have a cv joint going bad, change it, they will eventually lock up and the car won't move.

Good luck

 

[Crashtest84]

I would almost bet on a hub bearing and brake pads, my old car did that kinda. What it ended up being was the hub bearing was wore. It allow for enough movement that the brakes would drag just enough to make noise and if your brakes still have the wear tab that could be your problem.