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My son needs some help


Blueox

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
269
City
Winona, MN
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Automatic
I am in Texas and he is using my truck in Minnesota. He lives with me because of issues I cannot discuss here.

Any way, I gave him my name and ID and he will be on the forum asking about a starting issue. His name is Rich and please help him out. It is really hard to do this 1,500 miles away.

I told him to use the search function.

Please help him out.
 
Update

My daughter had used the truck to pick him up at an airport about 120 miles away. Worked fine. On the way home, she filled with gas she found at $2.89 per gallon.

Now he has a starting problem. It will start and kill, then a second time, and finally run the third try. He drove about 4 miles to get some beer (go figure). When he got back in the truck he had the same problem on the first start. I asked if it had warmed up? He said it was blowing warm air. Well that sure doesn't tell me much. It was cold out in the low teens.

No cel but I asked him to go to O'Reillys to see if he had a pending code. None.

I suspect bad gas. So I told him to put a bottle of the Chevron product in the tank to see if it helps.

When I left for Texas I did not have any problems, so I thought. I remember using the remote start a couple of times when it was cold out. It is programmed to try three times. One time it cycled all three without starting. This happened only once.

So I am thinking there are only three things to look at: 1) Idle air control; 2) MAF; or 3) Air temp sensor. Now wouldn't I get at least a pending code if one of these malfunctioned twice in such a short time?

Any thoughts on this? Help would be appreciated.
 
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Water in the gasoline happens, esp. common with cheapo gas. When that water freezes in the lines or inside your filter, the ice plugs up the lines and you will get such issues, and also stalling. That's why ppl add some gas line anti-freeze (a.k.a. "dry gas") into each tank of gas during winter.
 
Yes, gasoline issue would be first thing to go after, add "heet" or similar to fuel tank.

No on the IAC valve, it is just for idle issues, and since you didn't notice idle issue first that wouldn't be worth checking.

Air flow and air temp are the same sensor, the MAF sensor.
Since computer is in Open Loop when first starting I wouldn't think MAF would effect starting.
You can unplug the connector on the MAF sensor and then try starting, if it starts right up then MAF wiring could have a problem.
You will get a CEL with MAF unplugged, and engine will start and idle fine without MAF but won't drive very well, lol.

When engine starts(without touching gas pedal) does idle go up to 1,500 and then drop back down to 1,000(cold engine) or 750(warm engine), that is the computer testing the IAC valve and then reading data from the ECT(engine temp) sensor.
As engine warms up idle should go down from 1,000 and end up at 750, ECT sensor is working as is IAC valve.
On a cold engine only the MAF, ECT and TPS(throttle position) sensors are used, O2 and other sensors are ignored until engine warms up, computer uses pre-set fuel/air mixes at this time.

I guess the easiest thing to do would be to get a spray can of Ether(starting fluid) and spray it into the intake(pcv hose or power brake hose) and then crank engine.
If it fires up then fuel was the issue, bad gas or CPS(cam position sensor), or Fuel pressure leak, try turning key on(count to 3) and then off, repeat 3 times, and then try to start engine, if it starts right up then you have a pressure leak.
CPS times the injectors

If it still takes 3 cranks with starting fluid then spark is not starting, CKP(crankshaft position) sensor tells the computer that the crank is turning so to start the coil(spark).
CKP sensors rarely fail, and if they do they fail completely, no start, not slow start.
And CEL would be on.
Weak spark can be a voltage issue, any history of wiring problems, or any engine work where ground straps might not have been put back on tightly?

Also just to see, unhook the negative battery cable for 5 minutes, then reconnect it, that will cause a reboot of the computer and force it to relearn sensor parameters, anytime you change or clean a sensor you should do this, but also if there is a problem, reboot .....just like your home computer, lol.
 
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Thanks. I suspected gas also. I will have him read the full post. You would think that with 10% ethanol, water wouldn't be a problem. But crud plugging a fuel filter could. But then the truck would be stalling out and he would not be able to drive it at highway speeds above 45. I did have watergas in a 1980 vintage car. Would not go far or fast. A can of heat and about 20 minutes, fixed. Didn't buy from that station again.
 
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2.89 a gallon for gas? freaking 3.60ish here for cheap gas.

since he just put gas in Id siphon out a couple of gallons and let it settle

2nd thought would be fuel pump/pressure. given you say it takes 3 times to get a chug out of it.
 
My son finally got some Heat in the tank with know quality gas. Works fine now. Go figure.

Thanks to all for the help.
 
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Figured out the problem when I got back from Texas. It was the Idle air control valve. Really dirty. Cleaned up and running the way it should.
 

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