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My SAC (Solid Axle Conversion)


looks fricking sick man. have you wheeled it yet and how does it drive on the road?

im down in oregon aug 18 to 25 if im near by could it be possible to come by and take a look?

:icon_cheers:
 
you used the normal radius arms?



not a good idea if you did. cant really tell from the pics.


thats a little different then what tom campbell did but basically the same deal, but he did the arms correctly.

wouldnt take long to fold them up like a cheap tent if done incorrectly.
 
you used the normal radius arms?



not a good idea if you did. cant really tell from the pics.


thats a little different then what tom campbell did but basically the same deal, but he did the arms correctly.

wouldnt take long to fold them up like a cheap tent if done incorrectly.

So right now they are the original radius arms. We just had the time and money to get the axle done first. We know it isn't good to have it like that and we are going to change it soon. It drives awesome on the road. As long as my bro doesn't try to flex out, there wont be very much strain on the system. So it is fine for now.
 
it wont take much to crack the ears off of the arms...keep a close eye on that.


but on the other side...it will be easy to three link it at least.
 
it wont take much to crack the ears off of the arms...keep a close eye on that.


but on the other side...it will be easy to three link it at least.

Will do thanks.
 
Wow! Gotta say that's better than McGuyver could ever do. The thought to do the same thing crossed my mind but then the axels I have now kinda jumped into my hands. I'm subscribing!
 
tom campbell did a good job on this years ago for a comp buggy....i tried to find some pics but so far not happening.

might be able to dig a number out for him.
 
Please tell me those bolts pictured aren't what you used for the steering and track bar?
 
thats what it looks like......

another concern....why didnt you weld all the joints on the axle? you stitched it every couple of inches, which leaves areas of higher stress...
 
Doing this also creates another problem. Axle clearance when going over obsticles. It's a nifty idea, but ill planned out. If I were going to do this, I know I'd be doing it right ( 1 ton steering, beefy extended radius arms, etc.). IMHO, it looks slapped together.
 
I'm not endorsing the material used to do this, but it is a pretty ingenious to fab a solid axle from an ifs, using the correct skills as well. The material looks to be about an 1/8", 3/16" at the most. I would have used 3/8" at the minimum. It would be a very good idea to get a piece of 3" square tubing and replace the flat plates on the passenger side the pumpkin. Even .250 thick square tubing would be 75% stronger than the material you have now. Might want to think about that when pull it back down for the ra's. I definitely like the idea you have though. Keep up the ideas :icon_thumby:


SVT
 
with the radius arms hooked up and beefed a bit i think it will be ok for light wheelin with the tires he has now.

if he steps up the power though.....it could get frustrating. locked and harder wheelin would be real sketchy.


i think i could fold it up with my ol small block in a matter of minutes with heavy 35's

built with svts specs it would last indefinitely though....just normal shaft busting from there. the way it is now the shafts could twist it up.
 
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=37_82&products_id=770



heim%20stub%201k.jpg




also i suggest to consider something like this for steering on the street please and toss that junk you bolted your steering up with. is it even grade 5? 8 is the way for public roads and steering for most us.
 
Hey guys thanks for all the comments! So right now how the vehicle sits is just temporary just to make sure the idea would work. Now that i see it will i can beef it up some lol. New radius arms new steering bolts and so on.. the steel is all. 25" and i feel it is pretty strong. I will show you the steal with a tape up too it if you really want lol. But so ya the welds were never full length... i was told too stop the welds every little bit to prevent long breaks and warping of the medal. But if every one thinks full welds would be better then i can do that. Thanks for the ideas! And like i said it is far from finished lol
 
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