My Ranger won't start

[tacstar]

Ok, I just swapped a motor from a 2001 Ranger into a 2000 Ranger that I bought with a blown motor. I swapped fuel injectors so they would work with my harness. Other than that, and the exhaust manifolds, everything went fine. I replaced the Cam Synchronizer as a preventative measure.

The truck now won't start. It does crank. I believe every sensor is hooked up (I've checked soooo many times). The truck has spark- I have observed spark at each spark plug. The fuel rail has 58 lbs of pressure.

I'm at a loss...I've spent a ton of time trying to diagnose the problem...I need ideas. Help!

 

[Rearanger]

Do you have voltage to each injector and if so how much?

 

[tacstar]

I haven't checked the injectors specifically. How much voltage am I looking for? Are they powered with the key on? Thanks.

 

[locovaca]

Did you make sure to get the CPS lined up correctly? If it's off it won't start but would spark.

 

[Rearanger]

I haven't checked the injectors specifically. How much voltage am I looking for? Are they powered with the key on? Thanks.

Injectors are fired by ECM grounding circuit. At the injector plug you should have constant 10.5 volts or greater with key on. Test at least two injectors, one on each bank. If you've got volatge then you'll need to determine if the injectors are firing. Without noid lights the best you can do is feel the click at each injector as it opens/close as you crank the engine. You could try using a long screwdriver with the tip against the injector and the handle against your ear.

 

[tacstar]

I found that I have about 12.3V on each fuel injector bank. I couldn't hear the injectors click while the engine was cranking....It was too loud while turning over. Any other way to check the injectors?

 

[Rearanger]

A stethescope may help but I find them too sensitive and pick up surrounding sounds. You could see if there's raw fuel on the spark plugs. Ford outlines a fuel pressure test while cranking and looking for pressure drop to assess if fuel is being metered into the intake. You could also spray starting fluid into intake and see if the engine fires, but be careful as starting fluid is very volatile. I'm assuming the injectors are not firing and since you are getting spark and have fuel pressure do you know the ECM is a good unit?

Edit: I assume you have compression?

 

[tacstar]

Alright, I got it running. Poorly, but running. I believe the problem was the IAC valve. I also cleaned the MAF sensor, but it did start with the throttle to the floor before the cleaning. But it spits and sputters and backfires.

I might have put my canshaft synchronizer in 180 degrees off. I can't remember now if the last time I messed with it I left it in correctly. I experimented with what I thought was the right way and 180 degrees around.

Is it imperative that the camshaft sensor connector be pointed 38 degrees left of the engine center line? I've heard both. Alldata thinks its important. I don't have the synchronizer alignment tool, but it doesn't seem neccesary. (as I say that with a poor running truck- LOL). Thanks for any help.