My New House & Workshop

[Jim Oaks]

The guy that was going to try and come out today hasn't called me.

 

[Roert42]

The guy that was going to try and come out today hasn't called me.

I’ve had a lot of issues try to get quotes for stuff as well.
Leave five voicemails. Get one call back, but no one ever shows.

 

[Curious Hound]

I’ve had a lot of issues try to get quotes for stuff as well.
Leave five voicemails. Get one call back, but no one ever shows.

I never could have imagined running my business that way. Even when I was extremely busy, I at least called people back. If I made an appointment with someone, I showed up. That's just common decency.

 

[Uncle Gump]

My guess is after the ice storm and freezing temps... these contractors have more work then they know what to do with right now. Probably charging premium prices too.

 

[Roert42]

My guess is after the ice storm and freezing temps... these contractors have more work then they know what to do with right now. Probably charging premium prices too.

Why take a job that sounds like a bunch of bs from the outset when you have people spoon feeding you a bunch of gravel work?

 

[Jim Oaks]

Huh?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Why take a job that sounds like a bunch of bs from the outset when you have people spoon feeding you a bunch of gravel work?

Gravy?

Gravel work varies from sit on your butt and drive slow to get out and shovel hard heavy objects.

 

[Roert42]

Gravy.

 

[Jim Oaks]

I like gravy on biscuits.

 

[Rick W]

@Jim Oaks I’ve been scratching my head, and the crapper really is in the exact dead center of (my opinion) best/least expensive option. It’s dead in the middle of where I’d move the wall out.

So, a question:

To move the toilet, obviously the 3-4” drain in the ground is the biggest issue. To move it, you have to saw cut a 24x24 hole and a 12” trench to wherever you want to put it. It’s not difficult, but it’s a few days work. Would you consider that? If so where would you move it?

Obviously the least expensive quickest option is to work around it. I hope to have a couple ideas tomorrow. Burned out tonight, don’t even have the energy to piss off the Redhead.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Well clearly the bathroom was in the back corner of the original building. I really don't want to mess with moving the plumbing.

Not really sure where to turn. I'm seeing pole buildings for under $20k that are bigger than what that guy quoted me yesterday.

Something I wish I had now was a carport to park my F150 under. I worry about it getting damaged from hail. It's a real problem in Texas.

So the interior height is 7'6". Not idea for a garage, but I could find a use for it.

I wonder if I could modify the ceiling joist in the rafter and raise it up to gain some ceiling height?

If I can't convert the building in to a garage, I like the idea of adding an addition on to the building to use as a garage.

 

[Rick W]

All understood. We can plan on a cover for the 150.

God bless Texas. If there’s no permit/no inspection, I come back to just pulling down the wallboard on the ceiling (some or all) and having the exposed trusses. Pressure wash it all before you start finishing. If you’re going to mess with more than 1-2 trusses, you might as well bump the whole top up. You’ll probably have close to 8ft clear.

On the shabby trim, I come back to accenting the building with the house siding including that trim. A little more work now, no more rot and painting, ever!

I sent my number, happy to help, but I’ve got 20-30 quick questions that will help me zero in. It’s a process I’ve done many times.

First question, however, is how long do you plan on staying there? 20 years plus? If so, you want to do it in a way that, even if you can’t do it all at once, you can do it in stages without doing anything twice.

And, in general, if you’re not using the building yet, you can save a lot of money doing a lot yourself with 1-2 helpers in stages: dig and pour the foundation for the bump out before demo. Build the trusses yourself before demo. Frame the rear stub wall and the new front tall walls in pieces before demo, etc., stage everything & the materials. Then, it would be a 1-2 day job to cut the roof, demo, put all the erector-set pieces up and plywood on the top. Stapled tar paper will keep you dry and it could be shingled in 1-2 days (or ten evenings).

& did I mention you should start scouring Craigslist for used garage doors and pedestrian doors? Do it, buddy! If you don’t use them, you can sell them for what they cost or more. Google salvage yards for them too. Hint: if you chat with the guys at the concrete yard, salvage yard, hardware store, etc., you can probably identify 2-3 carpenters or small contractors.

I’ll sketch up something & a process whether you do it over a month or two or contract it for a few days.

Again, don’t get frustrated. You’re in charge, you’ve got your own castle & kingdom, you may just simply have to adjust the plan ;-). Trust me, He’s on your side, He’s at your side. Chat with Him a little for His thoughts and guidance.

Gosh, I worried for weeks and weeks if mine would ever get done. That was 22 years ago (& I’m still working on it!!).

Rick

 

[Rick W]

& before I get the thing drawn up, see if you can get some friends and neighbors and pick that building up and spin it 180° so the bathroom is not in the way...

 

[Jim Oaks]

I didn't buy the house thinking I'd move again. I'm 53. I'm tired of moving. For now I plan to stay here.

I like the idea that I could just start building something and not have to have permission or a building inspector looking over my back.

Would it be cheaper to build a stub wall versus laying more block? I honestly don't understand why someone can't lift the roof, lay 3 rows of block, and set the roof back on it.

The guy that came out said it was to much work to clean up my trusses and reuse them.

I know I could do the block work myself to close up those alley doors. Probably put a window in their place. Need to figure out why the rear two corners of the ceiling sag down some.

I could probably close up the step cracks in the block with cement epoxy in a caulk gun.

My question now is would it be easier and cheaper to just build a garage addition on to the side of the building. I'd really like to attach it and tie the roof in to the existing roof. Plus it would mean I'd only have to build 3 walls instead of 4.

I've done framing before. The trusses would be a challenge.

 

[Curious Hound]

Adding on sounds like an easy idea. Trusses wouldn’t have to be a problem. They’re not expensive to order.

I built a 16’ x 20’ room on my house years ago. My wife’s uncle and I set the 20’ trusses in place ourselves without a crane. Ordering them was fun. I told them what I wanted. Then when it was time to approve the drawings, I asked the designer to tweak a couple things. He did that and they turned out perfect for me. You can have scissor trusses made to give more headroom in the middle without having to build tall side walls.