My motor is a figurative block of ice.

[soul_justice]

So it was pretty cold here in TN today, and I've noticed this problem before on similarly cold days- my temp gauge barely moves above the "c" hash mark. I haven't tested the sender yet, but seeing as we've also had some 70 degree days here in the last week and it was reading what is normal for my truck (around n-o in "Normal") I assume the sender is probably fine. I have done the following:

Changed tstat w/ 192* oreilly brand
Radiator hoses are new
No engine codes since computer was changed

When running the heater this morning it was warm enough to keep me comfortable but it wasn't boil-your-skin-off hot like every other car I've driven. The last time I checked the heater hoses about a month ago the inlet hose was hotter than satan's testicles and the outlet was a little cooler. I bring this up because I have a Tripminder wired up in my truck and when the gauge stays cold it runs like shit but if I stick some cardboard on the rad it gets up where it should be and suddenly I'm getting 25 mpg avg doing 75 mph down the interstate.

What should I look for? I've done some searching and see these 2.3s like to run cold but I doubt Ford shipped cardboard with a blue oval printed on it and the words "For winter use only" when they were shiny sitting on the lots

 

[Kenneth S]

One thing you can do is take the fan off of the engine, and put an electric fan on the radiator. Here in Texas in the summer I only need to run the electric fan when sitting in traffic. I run the electric fan off of toggle switch so I can control the temperature. Even when it gets really cold here I have to cover about 1/3 of the radiator, and rarely use the electric fan.

 

[soul_justice]

I've considered that, but wouldn't i also need to upgrade to a higher amp alternator? Electric fans take quite a bit of current to run. What fan would you recommend in that case, as well?

One thing you can do is take the fan off of the engine, and put an electric fan on the radiator. Here in Texas in the summer I only need to run the electric fan when sitting in traffic. I run the electric fan off of toggle switch so I can control the temperature. Even when it gets really cold here I have to cover about 1/3 of the radiator, and rarely use the electric fan.

 

[RonD]

I know the newer Limas(ford 4cyl) are using a 208deg t-stat, see if you can find one of those.

While Ford didn't ship a piece of cardboard with the big blue oval with each Lima they sure did get alot of complaints about running cold in the Northern states, hence the 208 deg t-stat

192/195 deg is simply not warm enough for the Lima in cold weather, heater barely gets hot enough.

A gas engine should run between 210-230 deg for best lubrication and best MPG, below that is a waste of fuel.
So while card board may not be factory it does work.

 

[Kenneth S]

I've considered that, but wouldn't i also need to upgrade to a higher amp alternator? Electric fans take quite a bit of current to run. What fan would you recommend in that case, as well?

The stock alternator works just fine, when I got an electric fan for mine I measured the radiator in my truck, then hit the salvage yards, and found one that fit pretty close (I've done forgot what car I got mine off of).

 

[Mark_88]

My truck throws out great heat. I used to have to put cardboard over part of the rad (the distributor side was dual purpose) but since I changed the rad (new) and put in a 192* t-stat it's been fine...but that reminds me...I think I had to dilute the anti-freeze this summer so I'd better check it again before it gets too cold.

I usually have to turn the blower down once it gets warmed up...last winter it was pretty good...but while I'm doing the upgrades I might try to insulate the floorboards better...

 

[simpler=better]

The electric fan is a great upgrade, it can be done right for around $60.

FWIW, my ultragauge reads 170*F when the needle just hits the "bracket" line above "C" The lower edge of the thermometer picture is between 180*F-190*F. Haven't gotten her up above 190* in this weather, coincidentally my e fan has not been on in a while either

Anyone have a part number or reference for a higher temp tstat? I'd love to crank up the heat.

 

[Kenneth S]

195 degree thermostat, Stant Part No. 45829
192 degree thermostat, Stant Part No. 13820

 

[ab_slack]

I know this may sound like stupid and contradictory, but when I have had problems with heat not working well, and sometimes even low temperature gauge, I found my problem was the coolant being radically low.

It wasn't that the engine wasn't getting hot or coolant staying cool, it was just that the coolant wasn't circulating thru the heater core and around where the temperature sensor was making it seem like it was cold.

 

[Mark_88]

I know this may sound like stupid and contradictory, but when I have had problems with heat not working well, and sometimes even low temperature gauge, I found my problem was the coolant being radically low.

It wasn't that the engine wasn't getting hot or coolant staying cool, it was just that the coolant wasn't circulating thru the heater core and around where the temperature sensor was making it seem like it was cold.

That is actually one of the main causes of "no heat" so it is on the point here...

Other causes are thermostat not working properly or set to open too low (temp wise), air in the system, water pump not working, heater core plugged...and probably a few more that I can't think of right now...

 

[soul_justice]

I keep an eye on my coolant fairly often and I haven't noticed it dropping. It is at the proper level when both hot and cold. It was 17 degrees here this morning and I checked the fan clutch, i could move it but it had a lot of resistance. This was before I ever started the motor before I left for work. Maybe my fan clutch is toast?

 

[ab_slack]

I keep an eye on my coolant fairly often and I haven't noticed it dropping. It is at the proper level when both hot and cold. It was 17 degrees here this morning and I checked the fan clutch, i could move it but it had a lot of resistance. This was before I ever started the motor before I left for work. Maybe my fan clutch is toast?

Fan clutch will always feel somewhat stiff especially cold. The clutch isn't involved in temperature regulation. On the long shot, if it was the fan clutch then things should be find just letting it sit at idle since at idle the fan should be turning.

The clutch disengages the fan at high RPM to reduce engine load and because usually at higher RPM there is air coming thru the radiator from moving.

The biggest symptom of a bad fan clutch is noise. As you rev the engine the fan should get a little louder and other engine noises will drown it out. A stuck fan and the fan noise will go a long way to drowning out the rest of the engine noises.

Anyways sure the fan can improve cooling, but coolant temperature in the engine is regulated by the thermostat. As long as that is good, it should come up to temperature, but RonD has a good point that blocking off part of the radiator may help that process if the engine has too much cooling available.

As far as fluid level I never been very trusting of the level indicators in the overflow which I figure is what you are looking at when you refer to hot and cold levels. I could see that if all air was out the siphon effect would cause it to indicate, but it always seemed to me that if fluid level got low, the level would move up and down a little as air in the system fluid and air in the system heated up, but what showed in the overflow tank was basically an isolated bit of fluid not really connected with the actual level.

Recently when working on my 87, I noticed that I could easily sqeeze my upper radiator hose as if it were empty. I don't know if it always should have fluid or not, but that seemed odd, my overflow fluid level looked fine.

Anyways since I hadn't started it yet, I opened the radiator cap and couldn't see any fluid. The level was well down. Took a couple gallons to bring it back up and I am not even sure I got all the air out. Needless to say I was totally fooled by looking at the overflow and not having looked inside the radiator.

So if you haven't popped the radiator cap and looked, been relying on the overflow, sometime, when engine is rock cold, before you start it pull the radiator cap and take a look.

 

[Kenneth S]

An electric fan gives you benefit of not moving any air thru the radiator, and over the engine if you have the habit of letting the truck sit idling to warm up to where a clutch fan even when in good working order will still be moving air at idle when it's cold.

 

[dasrider]

Hmm, I'm having the same issue as the OP. My dad and I changed the timing belt, radiator hoses, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs and a slew of other maintenance items this past weekend on his '94 Ranger with 385,xxx miles. Put everything back together and she purrs like a kitten (well as much as these 2.3L will purr). After running the truck 30-40 min to burp the air out, the temp gauge never moved much off 'C'. The heater was blowing warm air though.

I got a little too excited pouring coolant back in the rad and just let it chug in there, which I'm sure introduced all kinds of air. We let it run for a good 30-40 minutes with the radiator cap off, letting it burp. Thing is, the t-stat never opened as the upper radiator hose never got hot coming off the t-stat housing. The coolant was also only lukewarm to the touch in the radiator.

Now here's a possibility - I had to disconnect the right hose (when viewed from the front of the truck) of the heater core to reroute it around another hose during the timing belt procedure (don't ask). Would removing it from the core when the truck was cold and coolant drained introduce air in the circuit somehow?

I have read elsewhere about air being stuck at the top of the coolant circuit at the heater core hoses. That t-stat was such a b!@$% to replace I really don't want to have to take it off again.

 

[simpler=better]

195 degree thermostat, Stant Part No. 45829
192 degree thermostat, Stant Part No. 13820

Thanks, I was hoping for a 210* somewhere in there.

Will a duratech tstat fit a lima?

Relative to the thread:
170*F is usually right at the "-C"

Yes I have a CEL(P0401) and no I don't know why my charging light is on. No, that's not 128miles to a half tank on a 2.3 (is actually ~160...still terrible though)