my junk pile

[odie1969]

Hey canyon critter, I was wondering where you mounted ext radius arms? I bought a sweet set for cheap, here is all I bought,

any help with finding the spot to mount these.
Also You played with the prerunner scene more than I have, All I know is that these came off a bronco ii but do you know what kind these are, there is no part number on anything so far. thanks

 

[84projectFORD]

kinda looks like autofab brackets and rad arms. I would really suggest you mount those limit staps seperate of the shocks. a single sheer setup like that over time weakens the bolt and causes it to break and since your shock runs off that bolt, there goes your shock too. now thats if your constantly jumpin it are really off roadin it. if your mainly on the street you should be ok.

 

[odie1969]

cool ya I was planning on running the strap, by itself. but at this point my truck died, wont crank or nothing I have no power any where.(yes I checked my battery cables but I'm go to recheck my neg cable) SO at this point I have to get this pig running again so I can take it to get emmision testing, and then the suspieon gets redone. with superruner 5.5, dana 44/50 hybrid ttb, and then the ext radius arm and king bypass. for the rear I will be doing the 64'' spring swap. then the pig will be done exept for the interior.

 

[84projectFORD]

sweet! what 64" inch swap? teh giant kit or a chevy swap? Be sure to really check you batt connections. i actually just had a truck in the shop that had teh same exact simptoms you say, it turned out to be broken wires under the insulation on the positive cable so try puttin your key to run and wiggling the wires to see if you hear anything turn on. could be a bad ground on frame also.

 

[odie1969]

Chevy I'm not a big baller like some people around here, I been looking around to try to find a good deal on cl for them. but ya it sucked it was running great, just getting things squared up to take down to emmisions, and paint it, so i pulled the battery (it was just sitting on the fender with a bounge,) So put in a battery try, placed the battery in the truck to move the truck out to wet sand it, it cranked like three times, but the fuel pump was not pumping so got out reset the interia switch and then nothing not cranking at all, kick the ingntion to run and and lose all power, gauge wont light up and nothing, even lose power to the obdii port cant even pull codes. so ya its a wire isssue somewhere,

 

[danger88ranger]

Chevy I'm not a big baller like some people around here, I been looking around to try to find a good deal on cl for them. but ya it sucked it was running great, just getting things squared up to take down to emmisions, and paint it, so i pulled the battery (it was just sitting on the fender with a bounge,) So put in a battery try, placed the battery in the truck to move the truck out to wet sand it, it cranked like three times, but the fuel pump was not pumping so got out reset the interia switch and then nothing not cranking at all, kick the ingntion to run and and lose all power, gauge wont light up and nothing, even lose power to the obdii port cant even pull codes. so ya its a wire isssue somewhere,

I had the same problem, on the driver side near the washer/coolant reservoir their is a main power wire to your fusebox, mine had a bad connection their and i would get random blackouts like what you just said.

 

[84projectFORD]

Chevy I'm not a big baller like some people around here, I been looking around to try to find a good deal on cl for them. but ya it sucked it was running great, just getting things squared up to take down to emmisions, and paint it, so i pulled the battery (it was just sitting on the fender with a bounge,) So put in a battery try, placed the battery in the truck to move the truck out to wet sand it, it cranked like three times, but the fuel pump was not pumping so got out reset the interia switch and then nothing not cranking at all, kick the ingntion to run and and lose all power, gauge wont light up and nothing, even lose power to the obdii port cant even pull codes. so ya its a wire isssue somewhere,

haha oh believe me, i anit no baller. To all my friends im a red neck. i consider my self more high class white trash lol. bein in college i dont make too mcuh money, thats why i busted my ass over the summer to make enough money for the ranger and some little spendin money when school starts. funds have kinda ran dry after the purchase of the 64" kit but im set on what i want and know what to save to get it whether it takes a month or a year she will get there

 

[odie1969]

well I got pissed tonight with my truck just sitting there so I went a looked in the wireing around the battery, found my connections to be a little loose but not bad, so then looked closer at my ground and found that the wire had started to seperate at the junction, pulled it all back together and wala we have fire in the motor, so now to finish the paint and off to the inspection. god this will be a joy watching the inspector try to figure out how to smog it, as a 04 with the obd2 or the 87 with the sniff test.

 

[canyoncritter]

def. not autofab radius arms, all autofab radius arms for the rangers I have seen are built in to a "triangle"...

You can see the old style in this pic

and here are the new style

As you see how the two end come toghter, is what I mean about a triangle.




the radius arms look more like "1st gen" camburg arms to me, from back in 98-00'ish era.Or possibly about the same era Mcneil.But if thats the piviot bracket I see off in the corner Id bet more on the older camburg stuff.post up beter pics and might be able to get a better ideal.

normally radius arms from that era mounted right behind the front cab mount in general.how much longer over the stocker are they?


Since your going to use drop brackets and cut up a set of D44 beams I take it, I would hang the brackets and the beams, and meassure out the wheel base to make it equal side to side, and mount the radius arms.Just keep a eye on your caster as welll when your doing it.

Also that tab on top of the radius arm look more like just a limit strap tap.

odie, Im not telling you not to or anything,but bypass shocks are alot of money unless you find some used at a great deal.And myself I really dont thing you will "need" them.If your thinking you need them so you can open up the tubes and let the truck flex"wallow" around in the rocks on the trail and then have a decent handling on road I belive you could proably get away with opening the bleed holes in the pistons of some smooth bodies,as at slow speeds most the fluid gos threw the bleed holes vs the valve shims....as teh valving pretty mostly comes in to play when you get a fast rod speed so to say........just a thought and something you might want to look in to..
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84, The Saws need a rebuild bad.leaky seals all around, but I also picked them up at a good price knowing they were going to need a rebuild.
The FOA's ...well i bought them used and *grind teeth bite tounge*......long story.Ill just leave it at "my set had problems" and both sides are trying to pass the buck.But one side is being stand up and taking care of me....but yeah the shock has to be striped down for the part that need to be replaced.

Dont get me wrong, they are a good shock for the buck...But myself Im just sour on the whole exp. I have had with "this" pair of shocks.


I put I add on graigslist today for my 3% recycled air,(figured if the was breathing over the air comp.) and that how it was good for the env. to put it in your car tires and that is "could even get your better MPG"...at 5 bucks a tires.....I got 6 replies before my add got flagged lmao..... IF i dont post for a week, please Email al gore asking where I am lol.....

and face it your were a baller when you bought those springs, you were bawling that they cost so much haha....

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So odie keep a eye out on here when I do the FOA tear down and rebuild.As it is the same thing for those kings you have.As I rember you were asking me questions before when you first got them and this will anwser all the questions you have/had in general.

 

[ckblum]

I like this thread, but could I rob it quick and ask a quick question? Knowing you guys got experience and all. Is there any way to cheaply extend a D35? D44 knuckle swap? Mostly I wanna know if I can extend my track width up front without putting in wheel spacers and wearing out bearings and ball joints prematurely.

Cool builds though, I was thinking about getting some FOA shocks since they are more affordable and I wouldn't be racing or anything either.

 

[Sunk]

I like this thread, but could I rob it quick and ask a quick question? Knowing you guys got experience and all. Is there any way to cheaply extend a D35? D44 knuckle swap? Mostly I wanna know if I can extend my track width up front without putting in wheel spacers and wearing out bearings and ball joints prematurely.

Cool builds though, I was thinking about getting some FOA shocks since they are more affordable and I wouldn't be racing or anything either.

Somebody just asked this recently on here.... You can do the D44 knuckle swap, or run a FW D44.

 

[ckblum]

Running full D44 gear is a little overkill for me. Too much work and fab to get it fitting and cycling properly. How hard is the knuckle swap?

 

[CopyKat]

The Knuckle swap will not net you any width increase that is noticable.

 

[canyoncritter]

I like this thread, but could I rob it quick and ask a quick question? Knowing you guys got experience and all. Is there any way to cheaply extend a D35? D44 knuckle swap? Mostly I wanna know if I can extend my track width up front without putting in wheel spacers and wearing out bearings and ball joints prematurely.

Cool builds though, I was thinking about getting some FOA shocks since they are more affordable and I wouldn't be racing or anything either.

Other than doing the work yourself there is no way to really strech the beams out for cheap.

The most affordable shop I know of with a over all good rep, and stand up guy is Chad McNeil.

Nothing wrong with FOA's shocks really. alot of bang for the buck.

 

[odie1969]

I like this thread, but could I rob it quick and ask a quick question? Knowing you guys got experience and all. Is there any way to cheaply extend a D35? D44 knuckle swap? Mostly I wanna know if I can extend my track width up front without putting in wheel spacers and wearing out bearings and ball joints prematurely.

Cool builds though, I was thinking about getting some FOA shocks since they are more affordable and I wouldn't be racing or anything either.

there is no way to do it cheap that I know of, The only way I can think to extend the beams would be to have some one cut near the pivot point and weld in a new piece to strech the beam, after that you will have to get new axle shaft made to for the new length, after that you will have to fab a new spring mount to move the spring out from the frame for the new length. again this is just a idea of what you would have to do, not truly sure you can move the driver side out with out interferance from the drive shaft. So I know you really don't the d44 but really only fab work you would have to do is move the spring perch as you would with the dana 35, new steering as you would have to do with the d35 and get the passager side shaft shortened by 1-2 inches,($100-150) to get shortened, I would imaigan getting all ne longer shafts would be around $500-600 so If you want to go wide I would do the d44 swap, you might try to ask your question at dezertranger.com that is almost all prerunners with good info. they might be something over there that we have not talked about yet.
here is a pic from junkie about the d44 strech