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My idea of a Shelby Ranger if there would have been one.


Engine's looking sooooooo clean in there, and I see that Hedman sticker in there!

Although if it was me... I'm sure I'd have raped the paint on the firewall WAY worse than that. That is why mine is all undercoated! =P But again, this build is looking unbelievable. Kudos, my vote for TOTM when it gets there!
 
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Those Hedman headers are they the flat flange style at the collector or do they have the ball socket? I've got the older flat flange ones and I had to modify them to get them to seal properly. If using the compressed paper gasket on the head, then plan to pull the headers off and replace the gaskets. The paper ones will blow out on you and leak within no time. I've had better luck with the stock wafer steel manifold ones, I currently run.:icon_thumby:
 
They have ball sockets... I am hoping it will be a while before they start to leak.. them bolts are a sob to tighten up... I broke one and had to weld another bolt in to get it out.. I still don't think they were the right thread pattern for the heads... Any suggestions on what to plug the o2 hole on the left side.. Mine only has 1 O2 on the right...
 
Engine's looking sooooooo clean in there, and I see that Hedman sticker in there!

Although if it was me... I'm sure I'd have raped the paint on the firewall WAY worse than that. That is why mine is all undercoated! =P But again, this build is looking unbelievable. Kudos, my vote for TOTM when it gets there!

Thanks Andres! I figured to to be worse than that but I got lucky... I didn't think it would even go in with the tranny bolted up!
 
They have ball sockets... I am hoping it will be a while before they start to leak.. them bolts are a sob to tighten up... I broke one and had to weld another bolt in to get it out.. I still don't think they were the right thread pattern for the heads... Any suggestions on what to plug the o2 hole on the left side.. Mine only has 1 O2 on the right...

Bolts are an M8-1.5. Plugging the other O2 I just found a steel rod/bolt that was the correct dia and welded it on.

I didn't think it would even go in with the tranny bolted up!

Been there done that but it's not the firewall that was of consern. It was the core support lip. Accidently bent it up with the crank pulley.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by multiranger
I didn't think it would even go in with the tranny bolted up!

Been there done that but it's not the firewall that was of consern. It was the core support lip. Accidently bent it up with the crank pulley.

Yeah I did that coming out of the other ranger... I found jacking up the back end gives a better angle to go in at... The chain that I had bolted to the head is what hit the firewall not really the motor it's self... But hey stuck that extra Horse Power on and all is good with the world!
 
Dash is kind of in.. Still have to put the all the screws in... Changing the interior color to tan from gray.. That is one of the reasons I used gold on the engine.. The main reason is no one had the color I really wanted.. I decided to paint the Grant GT gold because it reminds me of the 77 or so Trans Am.. I am a huge fan of 60s and 70s cars.. I am shooting for more of the old classic design to be put in.. I just have to get some ideas..

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You have Frank the dog in your vehicle too!!!!!!!!!! We have one in our family van and hes been in 3 different vehicles and almost out the window a million times. Oh and the dash lights look great too. Thanks for the advice on how to fix my cab corners and I did rate this a 5 star, had to do it your doing amazing work.
 
You have Frank the dog in your vehicle too!!!!!!!!!! We have one in our family van and hes been in 3 different vehicles and almost out the window a million times. Oh and the dash lights look great too. Thanks for the advice on how to fix my cab corners and I did rate this a 5 star, had to do it your doing amazing work.

Frank has been with me the whole time I have been doing the build! Only thing he seems to agree every time I ask him something.. Thanks Danger! I would come over and teach you anything you want to know about bodywork if I could... But I will try to tell you the best I can with what we got... Honestly I was suprised at how much "metal" is in the old Rangers.. I could have got a tailgate for next to nothing but chose to fix a factory gate just because it is so much heavier... Based on that, fix what you can.. If you can't find used origional in the JY then get the tie one on ( tiawan)cheap crap as a last resort..
 
Frank has been with me the whole time I have been doing the build! Only thing he seems to agree every time I ask him something.. Thanks Danger! I would come over and teach you anything you want to know about bodywork if I could... But I will try to tell you the best I can with what we got... Honestly I was suprised at how much "metal" is in the old Rangers.. I could have got a tailgate for next to nothing but chose to fix a factory gate just because it is so much heavier... Based on that, fix what you can.. If you can't find used origional in the JY then get the tie one on ( tiawan)cheap crap as a last resort..

Tell me about it. My truck had been wrecked before I got it and they replaced the passenger door/fender with cheap crap, horribly lightweigt garbage. I put some original parts back on, definitely heavier duty stuff. I paint at a body shop and the crap they make today can't even compare. Even newer Rangers are still pretty hefty compared to everything else out there.
 
Tell me about it. My truck had been wrecked before I got it and they replaced the passenger door/fender with cheap crap, horribly lightweigt garbage. I put some original parts back on, definitely heavier duty stuff. I paint at a body shop and the crap they make today can't even compare. Even newer Rangers are still pretty hefty compared to everything else out there.[/QUOTE

Here is another way to do a repair.. As I said use weld through if you have to weld. Get the repair close as you can then grind off the entire area that needs body filler just as you would... Instead of putting filler directly on the bare metal you can prime it with PPG DP90... Make sure you clean it good.. That is the proper way to do it if you really want to prevent rust... Work the filler just as you would then recoat it with DP then prime it as usual... keep all bare metal under DP... That proceedure came straight from the instructors from PPG that certified me...
 
Tell me about it. My truck had been wrecked before I got it and they replaced the passenger door/fender with cheap crap, horribly lightweigt garbage. I put some original parts back on, definitely heavier duty stuff. I paint at a body shop and the crap they make today can't even compare. Even newer Rangers are still pretty hefty compared to everything else out there.[/QUOTE

Here is another way to do a repair.. As I said use weld through if you have to weld. Get the repair close as you can then grind off the entire area that needs body filler just as you would... Instead of putting filler directly on the bare metal you can prime it with PPG DP90... Make sure you clean it good.. That is the proper way to do it if you really want to prevent rust... Work the filler just as you would then recoat it with DP then prime it as usual... keep all bare metal under DP... That proceedure came straight from the instructors from PPG that certified me...

thats the way i do my body work. i just use rust defender primer, the body fill. rust defender, then i use this product called iceing, its a polyester glaze that goes on super thin and fills little imperfections in the body works. then i just coat the iceing with you standard laquer primer. the reason i use laquer is it dries quick, sands easy, and doesnt build up much.

then i do my base/ clear.
 

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