CopyKat
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2007
- Messages
- 2,274
- Vehicle Year
- 1987
- Transmission
- Manual
Nah not at all.. I am trying to figure out whay SAS means!!![]()
Solid Axle Swap.

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Nah not at all.. I am trying to figure out whay SAS means!!![]()
Engine's looking sooooooo clean in there, and I see that Hedman sticker in there!
Although if it was me... I'm sure I'd have raped the paint on the firewall WAY worse than that. That is why mine is all undercoated! =P But again, this build is looking unbelievable. Kudos, my vote for TOTM when it gets there!
They have ball sockets... I am hoping it will be a while before they start to leak.. them bolts are a sob to tighten up... I broke one and had to weld another bolt in to get it out.. I still don't think they were the right thread pattern for the heads... Any suggestions on what to plug the o2 hole on the left side.. Mine only has 1 O2 on the right...
I didn't think it would even go in with the tranny bolted up!
You have Frank the dog in your vehicle too!!!!!!!!!! We have one in our family van and hes been in 3 different vehicles and almost out the window a million times. Oh and the dash lights look great too. Thanks for the advice on how to fix my cab corners and I did rate this a 5 star, had to do it your doing amazing work.
Frank has been with me the whole time I have been doing the build! Only thing he seems to agree every time I ask him something.. Thanks Danger! I would come over and teach you anything you want to know about bodywork if I could... But I will try to tell you the best I can with what we got... Honestly I was suprised at how much "metal" is in the old Rangers.. I could have got a tailgate for next to nothing but chose to fix a factory gate just because it is so much heavier... Based on that, fix what you can.. If you can't find used origional in the JY then get the tie one on ( tiawan)cheap crap as a last resort..
Tell me about it. My truck had been wrecked before I got it and they replaced the passenger door/fender with cheap crap, horribly lightweigt garbage. I put some original parts back on, definitely heavier duty stuff. I paint at a body shop and the crap they make today can't even compare. Even newer Rangers are still pretty hefty compared to everything else out there.[/QUOTE
Here is another way to do a repair.. As I said use weld through if you have to weld. Get the repair close as you can then grind off the entire area that needs body filler just as you would... Instead of putting filler directly on the bare metal you can prime it with PPG DP90... Make sure you clean it good.. That is the proper way to do it if you really want to prevent rust... Work the filler just as you would then recoat it with DP then prime it as usual... keep all bare metal under DP... That proceedure came straight from the instructors from PPG that certified me...
Tell me about it. My truck had been wrecked before I got it and they replaced the passenger door/fender with cheap crap, horribly lightweigt garbage. I put some original parts back on, definitely heavier duty stuff. I paint at a body shop and the crap they make today can't even compare. Even newer Rangers are still pretty hefty compared to everything else out there.[/QUOTE
Here is another way to do a repair.. As I said use weld through if you have to weld. Get the repair close as you can then grind off the entire area that needs body filler just as you would... Instead of putting filler directly on the bare metal you can prime it with PPG DP90... Make sure you clean it good.. That is the proper way to do it if you really want to prevent rust... Work the filler just as you would then recoat it with DP then prime it as usual... keep all bare metal under DP... That proceedure came straight from the instructors from PPG that certified me...
thats the way i do my body work. i just use rust defender primer, the body fill. rust defender, then i use this product called iceing, its a polyester glaze that goes on super thin and fills little imperfections in the body works. then i just coat the iceing with you standard laquer primer. the reason i use laquer is it dries quick, sands easy, and doesnt build up much.
then i do my base/ clear.