My first engine rebuild, 5.0 HO. lots of pics and questions

[baddad457]

I just pointed out the swear word

It is a good idea though

It's how I did it on my swap. The hardest part was replacing the cam gear, but that wasn't hard at all, just a tad intimidating in making sure I positioned it correctly on the dizzy shaft.

 

[Boggin]

Want an easy ignition system? Use a steel geared points distributor (you'll have to do the gear swap yourself though) and refit it with a Pertronix unit (two wire hookup) Or buy a Pertronix distributor and drop it in (or any other aftermarket distributor of your choice)

so what would the points distributor have to come from? a carb'd 302?
and is this the pertronix unit your talking about?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/PerTronix-Di..._Accessories&hash=item231103659b#ht_500wt_922

 

[JuJu1289]

I used a HEI distributor I got of ebay for like $45. Are they big? Yes. Is it worth it IMO? Yes. Plus it puts out a 50,000 volt spark which is in the ball park with those MSD boxes.

 

[Psychopete]

I think you're trying to take the hard way out on this LOL. I can get the 85 Mustang dist for 50 + 15 core here, and it's in stock too. It'd be new, and just drop it in and wire it up. Just be sure to take in your TFI dist to cover the core charge.

 

[shane96ranger]

I think you're trying to take the hard way out on this LOL. I can get the 85 Mustang dist for 50 + 15 core here, and it's in stock too. It'd be new, and just drop it in and wire it up. Just be sure to take in your TFI dist to cover the core charge.

Then he would also need the ignition control module, harness, and a coil still. That one above is all in one, 3 wire hookup (if you want a tach).

Don't get me wrong, I'm all about using all Ford. This way is easier, and actually cheaper. Jeff likes cheap.

 

[Psychopete]

He could use a gm hei module (dime a dozen) and his stock tfi-iv coil. More than one way to skin a cat. Wouldn't be surprised if he had a module and coil lying around.

 

[baddad457]

so what would the points distributor have to come from? a carb'd 302?
and is this the pertronix unit your talking about?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/PerTronix-Di..._Accessories&hash=item231103659b#ht_500wt_922

Yep, any carbed 302 application, I'd use a new reman points distributor though, then refit it with a steel gear from Summit Racing. Ford Racing lists the gear, Summit sells it. Two wires to run, one to each side of the coil.

 

[Flash Gordan]

Boggin, I got a couple questions. First, what are you throwing the 5.0 in? That would determine what distributor you could use. Second, are you pulling the pistons out to replace the bearings and rings? I need to dig up the pictures, but I had to replace the motor twice in my 79' Frankenstang. The original engine took a crap and instead of trying to find another 79' smog blower, I bought a 88GT and installed that motor with a Edelbrock intake and Holley 600. Pretty soon that motor sucked a hose clamp down the intake and left a serious dent on the number one piston head and cracked the cylinder wall. A friend of mine at the time had a spare 5.0 out of a 90GT. So I bought new bearings, moly rings, and gaskets, used the 90GT block and found a spare piston. Threw it all back together along with the Edelbrock and Holley. When I originally swapped in the 5.0, I used the original 79' distributor. I really need to find those pictures.

 

[Boggin]

Well my brother told me that the rod bearings in this engine are shot. Seems like this is gonna be an expensive project, maybe i should just tell my buddy ill take his 4.0/m5od for 50 bucks. I would really like to have a 5.0 though
Any thoughts on cost and work in replacing rod bearings?

 

[Flash Gordan]

Rod bearings are cheap. Just be sure to mic the tolerances or use plastigauge. Cheap insurance to keep your short block running nicely.

 

[baddad457]

Well my brother told me that the rod bearings in this engine are shot. Seems like this is gonna be an expensive project, maybe i should just tell my buddy ill take his 4.0/m5od for 50 bucks. I would really like to have a 5.0 though
Any thoughts on cost and work in replacing rod bearings?

You can always use that short block for a trade-in core and buy a fresh reman shortblock. Sometimes you can get by replacing the bearings, but that really depends on what the old bearings & crank look like to start with (plus the piston bores as well). Really a job for someone who's experienced in building motors to do this right. If the bearings aren't installed correctly, it can be a complete waste of time and effort.

 

[Boggin]

Yeah, so its probably not my thing. Ill keep this thread though for when i find another 5.0.

Another thing, what is the difference in short block vs long block assembly?

 

[Flash Gordan]

A short block is just the block, crank, pistons, and rods. Nothing more. A long block is all that plus the heads. Some companies also throw in the oil pump into their long block kits. Some don't.

 

[shane96ranger]

Jeff, that link I PM'd you is a short block (from Latemodel Resto). You would just need to put a cam and an oil pump in it. It's all assembled when you get it.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Then he would also need the ignition control module, harness, and a coil still. That one above is all in one, 3 wire hookup (if you want a tach).

Don't get me wrong, I'm all about using all Ford. This way is easier, and actually cheaper. Jeff likes cheap.

I am still using the factory e-coil with my duraspark setup, worked great until I burned 6" of tach wire (it cut through the insulation on the dash) Another $15 coil and it is working great again.

My original module was $4 at a JY, I got a new one after the swap so it would look better and threw the old one under the seat for a spare. It ran great for 4 years. JY pigtails are cheap, mine was free off of a old 400 that was sitting around.

There is an older cap that doesn't use the big collar and cap, if/when I change cams and have to get different wires I might switch to that style for a cleaner look, if it isn't the same it looks the same as a points distributor cap.

I already had DS set up on my 2.8 so it was unplug the 2.8 dizzy and plug in the 5.0 dizzy. For my setup, nothing would have been easier.

They showed both the cast iron gear and steel gear in the online parts lookup deal, for an extra $30 I got a rebuilt dizzy instead of a little gear that would have had to hand fit to the distributor.