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My Bronco 2


yeah, i'm still thinking.....

jeep coils on either axle could be done. no problem..
i want the best on road ride if possible. it is first and foremost my daily driver.

the thing about the d35 is, i could put it in right now, w/ the RC drop brackets (pivot, sway, RA) and then upgrade later.. all i'd have to get is the lockouts.

get the swap finished and then upgrade them.. ya know? lol.

think i might try the d35, i'm gonna think a lot more before i do tho.
 
well posted the d30 for sale on my local jeep forum. if it sales, d35 it is lol.. if it doesn't sale, i'll continue to save money to build it. maybe....

but as its looking right now in my head--
d35, 4.10's(if i can find them cheap, if not 4.88's), custom extended radius arms, steering of some sort(probably modified superrunner, but i'll just use what i have at first), and maybe try to find some jeep coils, make my own disconnects...

its not final yet. i'm not saying for sure i'm not doing the SAS. not yet at least...
 
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I've got a d30 too. I'm saving it for my tan B2. I want to sas it,but might go with a D44.

Why are you backin off the d30?
 
D35+Jeep coils>SAS
 
just b/c strenght wise, there's not a lot of difference.
i'm not scared of the d30 at all, not for my plans.
just wanted to throw around the idea of the d35 for an easier swap, maybe a little less money. and the more i look at it, the more i realize i DD my truck so much more than i'll ever wheel it. i don't wanna mess up the body of my truck and i only plan on 33's. so sas is not "needed".. i've read a lot of stuff, and i've seen other people like disciplerocks up here using the ttb and flexing it like crazy.

i wanted sas simplicity, that's why i wanted a d30, but now that i read more-- and learn more about the ttb (and have plenty of people here to give us advice) i kinda realize i can do the d35 and do whatever i wanna do w/ it. i could still sas in the future when its not first and foremost my DD.

like i said-- i'm not scared of the d30, i just want an easier (possibly cheaper, hopefully) swap. its not set in stone yet that i'm not doing the d30... if it sales, it's gone, so it won't be a d30 lol.
 
D35+Jeep coils>SAS

can you give me a quick rundown on how yours is set up? different parts you have, what you would buy, what you wouldn't waste money on? :icon_cheers:
 
oh and what xj coils would i need for 33's???
 
If you can find it, look for the link in 4x4Junkie's cardomain page, he outlines everything he has used for his BII.

IIRC he is using Skyjacker XJ coils, modded coil buckets, custom long arms, an ARB locker, HD jeep D35 lockouts, & full circle c-clipsspicer 5-760's for u-joints. And a modified superrunner steering system. & Bilstein 12" travel shocks?

He pulls tons of travel too...
 
alright. i'm looking for it now!
 
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/702959/1990-ford-bronco-ii
found it!

so its
rancho axle brackets, reinforced
skyjacker xj coils -- skyjacker #JC60F
bilsteins shocks on extened mounts (can use f250 mounts, they are cheap!)
extended radius arms (i kinda plan on a joint at the frame, would it help?)
modified k-link steering (i'll have to research this a little more)
 
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I am running 6.5" Rough Country XJ coils. I used F250 shock mounts for enough travel. Currently still running the ZJ steering, but I am tired of bandaiding it so a Stonecrusher style setup is coming soon. Also run a sway bar while on the street. Might not have to with dual shocks though.

Greg (97TrailRigDD) is running BDS XJ coils because they have a higher spring rate and he cut them down for a 4" lift and still gets lots of flex.

Do some research. There are a couple good informative threads that Junkie has quoted and/or stickied.
 
And I think you are making a good choice. Run a D35 for now and save your money. Then if you still want to SAS, you can go with a better axle than a 30.
 
Basically for the k-link you just cut off the mounting bracket, clean it up, then weld in a another piece of 3/4" thick flat bar, 1, 1.5, or 2" wide to drop it down like so. I needed 2.5" of drop, so I welded in a 2.5" x 7" long piece:

0308011937.jpg


41d2cbe7.jpg


97df8fc7.jpg


You are just basically trying to get the tie-rods level with the amount of lift you have. So once you figure that out, then you can buy the appropriate piece of steel to weld in.

For me I wanted the ultimate in durability so I reamed those two holes plus the ones @ the knuckles for chevy 3/4 ton TRE's/DRE's and run 1.25" OD 0.219 wall tubing for tie-rods, tapped 7/8-18 so the TRE's/DRE's just thread right in.
 
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oh wow thanks for all the info, there's a lot of info here for just the one day i've started talking about this lol.

and actually this is the quote from MSJ that i said earlier on why i've made this choice
"i gotta get away from this d28... main reason, i've already broke it trying to hunt out of my truck. on 30's..
i didn't say it wouldn't get wheeled, just its first and foremost my DD. i need a truck that i can dd and hunt and trail ride in. i can't do a dedicated wheeler yet, i don't have the money-- or a place to put it other than pontotoc then i can't get to it often enough. if i have a dedicated wheeler right now, i need a tow rig or i'd need insurance on the wheeler to drive it back and forth from the trails/hunting ground. so that's not an option right now either. i'm not at a point in my life where i can have a dedicated rig.

basically i decided i don't wanna sas b/c of the money, i want a stronger axle that's not gonna break my bank account. i should be able to do the d35 swap, w/ some money left over to start saving for the tires."


but thanks to everyone that has helped give me info today. i'll read it all tonight again and make sure i understand it all. and see what i gotta start buying to the the axle swaps finished.. maybe i can get both swaps finished before school starts back, or i'll just drive the explorer to school a week or so.
 

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