My 99 FrankenRanger build

[Ranger Jakob]

I'm new to TRS. My name is jake and about 5 months ago started lifting my 99 ranger xlt 3.0 manual 4x4. Right now she is sitting on 37x12.5x17 mud claws. I put a 4.10 rear end from a 99 explorer, 6" skyjacker leaf springs, 2" lift shackles in the rear. Dana 30 from a 95 wrangler with 4" skyjacker leaf springs and 2" lift shackles in the front.

The truck went from power steering rack and IFS to a full jeep front end with a steering box from a 99 Durango. Had many problems along the way, most of which I've overcome. Having a couple finishing up problems I'd like some ideas on.

The way the steering box is mounted, I tried the pitman arm facing the rear of the truck but it's angled up so once the custom drag link was done it was bump steering pretty bad as well as axle wrapping when the brakes are applied. I will be adding a leaf soon to fix the axle wrap but the bump steer problem has me stumped. I have to flip the pitman arm 180 degrees so it faces the front of the truck to stop the bump steer but even a stock pitman arm won't work because of limited space between the front diff and the steering box.

I bought a flat pitman arm for a 72 jeep cj5 which will work but I can only use it with a steering box to match it.

My big question is; does anybody know if the 72 cj5 box will bolt up to the same spot as the 99 Durango box or 98ish Cherokee box? The cj box has an extra bolt hole but otherwise looks exactly the same. Before spending the $250 on a cj5 box I'd love some opinions and I can provide pictures.

 

[Grey_04]

welcome to trs. we want to see more pics of this beast.

 

[Kirby N.]

Idk about those boxes. I know a tj box and a 98 ish Durango box will swap and the Durango box is an upgrade. Can't you buy it from a parts store and return it if it won't work? Also, why are you stuck with a matching box and pitman arm? If it is the keys on a pitman arm, many boxes share the same keyed pattern. Also, you can fix the keys with a file so they will work with anything.


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[Ranger Jakob]

The whole problem is how I had to angle the steering box. I'll have more pics soon. The box is just so close to the front diff that the only pitman that will work is a completely flat one. Only one I found is the 72 cj5 one I mentioned. Splines are exactly the same as the Durango box needs but the opening where the splines are is about 1/8" too small diameter.

 

[Ranger Jakob]

At my shop right now.

 

[bobbywalter]

i prefer to go over the rail, and like the ford 77-79 f150 and bronco steering box and prefer the feel of the saginaw style 2wd chevy box quite a bit better. you can take the dodge gen 1 style plate and make a real nice mount with those to use the gm box. eventually i may go back to the gm box when i do some hydro assist....

of course with the narrow axle you are using, an over rail steering gear can have a few drawbacks depending on where you mount it. but it is workable.


generally the use of toyota and nissan style boxes when doing these particular combos get the nod the most often due to the ease of it.

from there looking into the triton powered e series steering boxes if you want to stay inside the rails can make for some powerful steering with great feel.

if you stay over rail though...when you feel like plopping in a hemi or a big block later on, there wont be any issues with it.

the braking situation is a separate issue, i am not following that all the way as explained to this point, need some better input.

 

[Ranger Jakob]

I've figured out pretty much everything now I believe. The ranger has an 86 cj7 gear box and pitman with a steering coupler welded to the end of my stock ranger intermediate shaft. The pitman is facing the front of the truck now to eliminate the bump steer and the add a leaf and spring clamps will eliminate the axle wrap I'm getting. Pics up soon if TRS allows. I haven't been able to post anymore pics, the uploads fail every time.

 

[bobbywalter]

so you have been driving it with these previous combinations? when you say bump steer what are you describing specifically?.?. left right darting with brake dive or over-understeer as it corners and cycles the suspension on bumps?? is it kicking the wheel 20 degrees or just a few degrees?

your shackles are too long for a driver in my experience without a well placed/built trac bar. the stilt-ing from that alone will cause classic bump steer, as the frame rolls over quite a bit before you get reaction to the tires.


shackle angle, lever length, along with actual working spring angle and alignment parameters can cause some issues while braking. combined with the wrong spring rate shit can get out of hand in a hurry.

arm off set/drag ratio, death wobble and bump steer are all situations that can bite ya in the ass when your mismatching things.

the boxes your using are not as easy to work with as the styles i mentioned. i like the ford boxes. of course if you want to stay real low in ride height then the inside rail box is the way to go.

your rig looks to be a mid build so i would bias to the outside style steering boxes. it nets the longest possible steering and trac bar lengths which make for better steering and handling potential all around.

combine that with a later set of grand knuckles for a semi hi-steer potential depending on how you set the links up and whether spring under or over and pack thicknesses etc.

i would need more info and pics to see what exactly your working with.

but theres more ways to skin this cat than you can shake a stick at...


over rail bx

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

TRS will host a limited amount of pics. Use a photo hosting website and link the IMG image in your post.

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