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My 97 F150 page


The weather finally decided to give me a chance to give this thing a tune-up. I honestly think it's quite possible these are the original plugs, and I know the wires are original. Just a little note (I will post this in the full size truck forum) that you can indeed use plug wires for a 96-97 Mustang on these F150's. They are a little shorter, but really quite manageable. I bought the Motorcraft WR-5938 wires, and used the Motorcraft SP-432 (AGSF-32FM) Finewire Platinum plugs. The threads were much longer on the new plugs, which caused a panic at first. Then I realized the seat was in the exact spot as the original Motorcraft AWSF-32P plugs (they no longer make these from what I understand). The plugs I took out all gapped out at .64 to .85 - not good for my MPG's.

Here's a couple photos of the plugs I pulled out:

The electrode is deteriorating (melting) on this one:
2012-03-24_19-30-39_523.jpg


Look at the gap:
2012-03-24_19-26-25_597.jpg
 
I was doing some reading on these things (in a quest for better mpg's) and came across a very interesting mod. The factory intake has a snorkel thing on it with a diameter of maybe 2 inches. The mod is to remove that restriction and add a 3 inch piece on there. So, I used a 3 inch rubber coupling, and a piece of 3 inch PVC pipe, about 3.5 inches long.

Here's the factory unit
2012-04-19_18-24-45_942.jpg


Comparison with the new piece, you can see the extreme difference in size
2012-04-19_18-24-28_317.jpg


I had to use about 1 inch of the factory snorkel to get a secure clamp, I failed to take a photo of it. But basically, I cut an inch off and it's under the clamp on the coupling.
2012-04-19_19-13-54_787.jpg


I also had to taper the end of the PVC to fit it into the hole in the fender well
2012-04-19_19-14-06_847.jpg


Showing the fit into the fender well
2012-04-19_19-15-18_37.jpg


Project complete
2012-04-19_19-18-19_509.jpg


I will report back with more info. I filled it up right before I did the mod. I got a measly 13.5 mpg last tank =(.
 
I didn't really notice a whole lot of difference with the Gotts mod (what you did) Milage and as a whole power stayed about the same.

In fact, I may have lost a tad of bottom end. :dntknw:

It is really hard to tell when you have to reset the computer and it goes into old fart mode though.

I used a lathe to turn down the pipe on mine, it worked pretty good :icon_thumby:

I don't remember if it is the 4.6 or the earlier trucks in general, but the air filter inlet port was about 3" on my truck, it was a lot smaller on my brother's '97 4.6. It has been at least four years since I did that so I don't remember the specifics. Where yours sucks down on the air filter housing side mine is about the same as the pipe side. He ended up getting a CAI instead because he didn't trust it.
 
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I'm trying to get some maintenance stuff done now, because I really don't know what the PO did and didn't replace. I got some Valvoline 80W-90 to get the differential fluid changed on the front and rear. I also got some Precision 231 U-Joints today, and got quite a deal on them IMO. O'Reilly Auto Parts matched Autozone's price for the Duratrash Gold U-Joints because the warranties are the same. I went and looked at the Duratrash joints yesterday, and they said Made in China on them. BLAH! The lady seemed offended when I told her just to put them back on the shelf.

Anyway..... these Precision 231's are normally priced at $23.99, and I got them for $14.99 a piece.

:headbang:
 
So.... I got the differential fluid changed today, and then decided to do the u-joints. Son of a gun if this thing didn't drop a bunch of gear oil out with the driveline . So, the pinion seal is bad. Also, I cut/bruised the piss out of my finger whilst attempting to get the old u-joints out. So I'm going to take it to the driveline shop Monday morning.

Blah....

Sent while I should be doing something else
 
The U-Joints are in, and it's like a new truck. I highly recommend Precision U-Joints. There are little noises and vibrations it was doing that I hadn't really noticed - gone now. The biggest issue it cleared up was the occasional clunk it made when I took off. I've also got some POR-15 on the way to fix the radiator support, and a couple other areas - and also got the pinion seal sitting in front of me here. I ordered the damn speedy sleeve at the same time, but it got shipped from New York to Utah, and somehow it shows it is in Honolulu Hawaii right now on the USPS page.

AND.... I just ordered some new rotors and pads (Raybestos) for it.
 
I've got more goodies =). The rotors, pads, pinion seal and sleeve, as well as the POR-15 kit all arrived now. I'm on one hell of a skimpy budget (about $5,000 in hospital bills coming), so I'm gathering things when I can. Next is calipers and hoses.

2012-06-15_18-57-01_879.jpg
 
I had a little bit of time to work on it yesterday, so I hurried and put the brakes on. It stops better than before, and so far there's not any squeaking. I took a pic just prior to spraying brake cleaner on the rotor.

2012-06-23_12-37-54_848.jpg


The PO told me he had just put new ball joints on it a few months before I bought it. The uppers say "MOOG Problem Solver" on them: (the control arms were still silver when I bought it)
2012-06-23_12-37-44_233.jpg


EDIT: Here's the Moog bulletin on what the difference between factory and their "Problem Solver" ball joints are:

Click me ------> http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_27045_Ford_Truck_Control_Arms_En.pdf


I also noticed the lowers are serviceable now as well. So, I'm guessing they are replaced at the same time.
 
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My buddy called me this morning and said "come over to my shop, I've got something for you". So I went over there thinking it was his usual gag where he gives me the latest issue of Mopar Magazine. Fact is, he said "that box over there is for you". Low and behold, he bought me a brand new radiator. He said "I looked until I found one that wasn't made in china, and ordered it". Last winter he let me store my Mustang at his shop, and he rebuilt my T5 trans while it was there and wouldn't let me pay him then either. I'm blessed to have some pretty dang good friends.
 
Cool thread Shane...I've been thinking about an F-150 lately...looked at a couple but didn't like what I saw (rust)...they are nice trucks and can probably pull more than my current Ranger...was wondering about the 4.2 engine since there seems to be quite a few with that option...

Want to get good gas mileage but still have some pulling power
 
Cool thread Shane...I've been thinking about an F-150 lately...looked at a couple but didn't like what I saw (rust)...they are nice trucks and can probably pull more than my current Ranger...was wondering about the 4.2 engine since there seems to be quite a few with that option...

Want to get good gas mileage but still have some pulling power

It's a decent little motor. The only complaint I am aware of is they get hot easy. I saw a thread over on F150 online on how to upgrade to the 4.6 radiator (link below). So it is curable. The 4.2 is very rare around here, so I never actually drove one.

http://www.f150online.com/forums/v6-engines-including-ecoboost/351408-2-row-radiator-upgrade.html

EDIT: BTW, the radiator he uses in that thread is the radiator my truck came with. Mine has a tiny tiny pinhole leak (nothing ever hits the ground) where the plastic tank is crimped - and it gets up to temp quickly, and never budges. Even when it's 105 degrees outside and the A/C is on.
 
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Well, I got my new Elm 327 OBD-II reader today. I am also using Torque Pro with it. I don't know how accurate the thing is, but I did a dyno pull with it just for the beans of it. Now, I've said since day one that this truck just seems to have a little more juice than the other F150's I drove. It seriously felt every bit as (if not more) strong as any 5.4 I drove. It also felt much stronger than the other 4.6's I looked at. This thing had me at 271hp at 4800 rpm's.

Like I say, I realize it's just an app and a reader, so it might be clear off. We are going to put it on my buddies Terminator on Monday. Then my brother wants me to put it on his M3. We'll see how those turn out.
 
did you ever dyno this thing?!
 
My truck? Just with the OBD-II scanner.

Sent from a Commodore 64 using a 300 baud modem
 
Well, I got my new Elm 327 OBD-II reader today. I am also using Torque Pro with it. I don't know how accurate the thing is, but I did a dyno pull with it just for the beans of it. Now, I've said since day one that this truck just seems to have a little more juice than the other F150's I drove. It seriously felt every bit as (if not more) strong as any 5.4 I drove. It also felt much stronger than the other 4.6's I looked at. This thing had me at 271hp at 4800 rpm's.

Like I say, I realize it's just an app and a reader, so it might be clear off. We are going to put it on my buddies Terminator on Monday. Then my brother wants me to put it on his M3. We'll see how those turn out.

I don't know if it is at the rear wheels of flywheel... but that is alot IMO for a fairly simiple engine that was originally rated somewhere just north of 200hp.

A CAI and a custom tune is good for 50hp at the rear wheels on a new 5.0 Mustang, and they have variable cam timing.
 

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