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My 91 Ranger the stRanger


Looks good. There should have been 4 self taping screws to put in the cupholder/switch panel. When you go to wire the switches you will have to drill out the rivets to access the back of the switches. That color is making me want to take mine out and re paint it.
 
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I finally got this pig. ZF5 47 from a 96 f250. I bought it off ebay 2 months ago. The original one I bought the salvage yard noticed a crack and sourced another from a different yard. They sent me that one and it was an M50dr2... So here we have the third transmission 2 months later. And they didn't want the m50d back so I have that laying around now...
 
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well I guess I will finally update this thread. I got the ZF5 in. It was a beast. I had to massage the trans tunnel a little bit even with the 2'' body lift. Also I had to cut the ears on the bell housing to make it fit. It was an extremely tight fit but I got it in and made a new trans mount and a new tcase support. I had to redo my headers and collectors with the zf5 in. I ditched the custom ones I made since they couldn't work no matter how I tried, and put some hedman 88400 headers in. Then I made a nice y pipe with 2.5 from the collectors and 3'' from the y pipe back and dumped it out the side in front of the tire.
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I used a stock 1991 ranger master for the clutch, but I used a 96 slave cylinder on the transmission. This was the first pain in my ass. The 96 slave has an orangey/yellow quick disconnect and the 1991 clutch line looks like it should fit but it doesn't mate with the slave. I then tried a 96 clutch line and it fit in the slave but leaked like a faucet from the master. Then I tried a 1993 clutch line, it fit the 1991 master and had the right orange/yellow aluminum quick disconnect for the slave and worked.

I then promptly went wheeling and it ran great and sounded great. Unfortunately that is when I ruined the engine.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-E0r1YwswU
I was just messing around in some loose sand doing some donuts and noticed the temp climbing a bit so I went over to park and meetup with the rest of the group. When I stopped, smoke came out of the engine bay and the passenger 02 bundle fell onto the collector and caught on fire. I extinguished the fire and thanked god nothing else lit. I let it cool down and started it back up and it seemed to run fine, even with the destroyed 02 wire bundle. I wheeled it the rest of the day and crawled all over the place. When we got out of the desert and hit the road, I had pretty much no power it felt like and little acceleration. I limped it home and figured it was the 02 that melted. I fixed the wiring and replaced the 02 and still no power. Compression checked the engine today and across all cylinders I have 40-45 psi. Surprisingly it doesn't smoke out the exhaust. The oil smells like gas though. So my rings are shot across the board. And thats where I'm at now.
 
That sucks. Hope you get it sorted out.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
so im planning on doing this swap this winter, couple questions

1 whos radiator did you use? im not into having the rad in the bed

2 how hard was the painless harness to figure out? at the moment i plan on thinning out the factory one
 
how goes the engine repair grunizzle?


I got most of the engine taken apart but it's still sitting in the truck. I'm just waiting for some more time then I'm yanking it and really seeing what's up with her. I've been really busy with a new job and being a newly wed


so im planning on doing this swap this winter, couple questions



1 whos radiator did you use? im not into having the rad in the bed



2 how hard was the painless harness to figure out? at the moment i plan on thinning out the factory one



I used speedways universal radiators for a ford. Pretty nice construction it seems and cheap as well.

The painless harness I got was already assembled but I had to chase a few wires here and there to add some things and it follows the ford diagrams in color code. It would be really easy if you got one and had to make it yourself. I would definitely get a painless harness again
 
Sorry I haven't updated this in a while.

So I've been chipping away slowly at this. I ended up buying a house and that ate all my funds and time. No shop, but it has a side yard for parking.

I pulled the motor a few weeks ago, had tons of carbon built up in the cylinders and the rings were shot.

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Dropped it off at the machine shop, acid wash, all new bearings, crank polish and cylinder hone.

Today I dropped it back in and began hooking it back up. Should be running hopefully this weekend

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I have the engine in, I took a lot of time to tidy up and secure wiring. I also remade all my fuel lines to stainless steel braided lines with AN fittings for quick connect/disconnect as well as longevity and durability. (pics to come)

I have to finish the new muffler I decided to use and then tidy some other thigs up and it should be ready to fire.
 
Well It has been a long time since Ive updated but I'll get this thread back on track.

Just after getting the new engine running we bought our first house so my time has been tied up in that pretty much since then. Luckily the holidays and the immediate household projects are over so I can work more on this.

Well, during the engine install I upgraded all the fuel lines to stainless braided hoses and AN fittings for serviceability and durability. My favorite part was getting AN fittings that adapt to the ford "quick connect" garbage that was on the stock fuel rail to AN. While building these fittings I also planned to install a fuel sending unit in the fuel cell. Thank god I did. I opened the fuel cell to find this:
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The hose that came with the fuel cell from the manufacturer was supposed to be submersible. Clearly it was not. So then I had to completely clean it out and search around town to find some of the proper fuel line. NAPA is the only carrier and it is $30 for one foot of it and it only comes in 1 foot increments.:mad3:

Anyway here some pics of the fancy new fuel lines
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I also took out the flowmaster I had been running and put an Aeroturbine 30/30 in and I also added a braided flex/expansion joint to try and combat my collector flanges from loosening up all the time.

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The motor runs good and the truck is driving again. Here is a shot of the truck in its new parking spot at our new house:

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So that is it as far as progress. I do have a trip with a group here in Albuquerque to Moab the first week in May so updates will be coming soon. My wife said I cannot go unless I cage it, so I'm going to be busy!
 
So I have been getting ready for my trip to Moab, first week of May I'll be there 7 weekends left, I have a lot of worked planned. I mainly have been collecting parts so on my week off it will be a ton hours thrown into this thing.
Here is some of the parts and plans:
I acquired a big bearing 76 f100 9 inch housing to match my front axle for free and decided to build that. 35 spline chromo shafts, grizzly locker, strange nodular dropout, 4.56 gears, 1350 yoke, disc brake kit and a ruff stuff pinion guard
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Also, this decided to show up to my house the other day:
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I got the 9 inch together today and welded on the disk brakes also. Pretty stoked to throw it under the truck. All it needs is perches, shock tabs, brake lines and diff fluid.

It is also getting an exo cage, more updates to come soon!
 
you like that aero more than the flowmaster? most flow masters have a ton of drone.
 
you like that aero more than the flowmaster? most flow masters have a ton of drone.

The aero is 100 times better than the flowmaster. I had an aero 25/25 with the 4.0l and my friend convinced me to use a flowmaster when I did the v8 swap, I hated the flowmaster, it had tons of drone. The aero is nice during cruise rpm and sounds good when I get into it
 
every month i see more people across the forums switching from a flowmaster to an aero with happy results.

i bet you like the zf5 ratios a lot more than that 3 speed as well..
 

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