Mushy Clutch Pedal

[RaptorRanger]

Hey guys,

The clutch pedal on my truck is getting pretty sloppy... I have to push it to the floor to be able to shift into gears, which is becoming difficult.

The clutch pedal moves in with ease until about 2 inches from the floor. I checked the clutch fluid resevouir, and it was full. I didn't see any leaks around the master cyclinder when I popped open the hood.

Any ideas? Can the clutch pedal assembly be adjusted?

 

[RaptorRanger]

bump

 

[RaptorRanger]

After doing some reading, I think it could be the master cylinder going bad, or there is air in the hydraulic system. Thoughts?

 

[Great_Big_Abyss]

I had the same problem with an Accent that I had. The seal around the piston inside the bore was cracking/failing, which mean't I was losing pressure in the clutch line.

this is probably your problem. Just try shifting without the clutch until you can get it fixed. You really only need the clutch to get started and stopped anyway.

 

[Bajabronco]

Sounds like there is air in you system from something, for starters you could bleed it,

First off, check for leaks at the slave, and at the junction where the slave clips into the hydraulic line.

There's a proper method to bleed the clutch, it's not some magic thing. You don't have to pull on it or gravity bleed it or change it out for another or blah blah blah insert dumb idea here....

The proper way:

1. Put the master in the truck after being bench bled. Hook up all the lines, but don't bolt it to the firewall or hook up the pedal

2. Make sure the reservoir is full, and tilt the master so that the part of it that is closest to the front of the truck is as high in the air as you can get it. The rear portion that you can see from in the cab should be down as far as possible.

3. Clamp a set of vice grips onto the rod, and have a second person firmly hold the master sturdy and at the desired angle from the engine compartment.

4. Get a third person to crawl under the truck and get him/her to follow proper bleed procedure while you manually pump the master cylinder. This should be just like bleeding the brakes. The second person, who is under the hood, should monitor the fluid level.

Using this method, it doesn't take more than a minute or two to see results. Get the third person to close the bleed valve, and then try to press the rod into the master cylinder. You'll be able to tell when its properly bled.

I've bled Ranger clutch systems at least 25 times using this method, and it's never failed to work.

that should take care of any air in the lines, if it comes back, you know you have a leak somewhere and that either the master, the slave, or the line in between is bad. If this is the case it may be worth trying the master first as you have to pull the tranny to get to the slave.