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multiple error codes


Joined
May 19, 2010
Messages
8
City
Owasso, Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
I've had my 93 ranger for about a month now, givin to me from a family friend. Its been running rough since I got it. It sat for 2 years, for really no reason. I am 2nd owner, and the truck has 85K original miles. I have ran about 5 tanks of gas through it, since I got it. I replaced the plugs and wires, which had never been changed, as well as the fuel filter, oil change and filter. I do need to change the air filter, just cause I want to, but it was replaced before it was parked.

The truck idle is rough, feels like it has a miss. On the hwy its sluggish, hard to keep at 70 MPH, and if I close the throttle it will slow down pretty quick. Today the CEL came on...I been waiting for it honestly. I got these three codes:

157-Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded - MAF

172Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control

223-Dual Plug (DPI), SPOUT or IDM circuit fault - Ignition Systems

I am familiar with the first two codes, and those are parts I already had plans to change. The third one I am not so sure of. Can anyone give me some advice where I should start with it?
 
when I first got my 2.3 it had been parked for a little over 2 years too, it had a squirrel nest built in the air cleaner box, stuff in the tail pipe from mice I guess and not only that, but a colony of bird nests in the radiator area.... make sure nothing is clogged or dry rotted out like a vacuum line bit in two or rotted... It could be a number of things, but look for the obvious first.
 
forgot to mention, make sure all plugs are tight (the electrical connectors) around their components, such as O2 sensor, Air sensors, MAF, etc.... anything could have gotten a little loose or who knows what ... then again, mine was parked outside... was yours?
 
Yea go through and check all the connectors for corrosion and put them back together with a dab of dielectric grease look for bare or burnt wires especially the O-2 sensors. The spout is part of the dizzy wires. And check all the grounds and sand them metal to metal. Once you look that all over good erase the memory and then disconnect the battery for 1/2 an hour then run the engine for 20 minutes at medium speeds and run the codes again when the engine is hot. Do that before you buy any parts and see if the same codes come up. Then you can change parts one at a time lowest number first and always erase the memory and reset the computer every time you change any part. If you just start changing parts It can get pretty spendy and the codes are in order one bad part can throw multiple codes so addres the codes in the order received.
 
Ok so today I changed the O2 sensor, I already had purchased it, so I put it on. Truck really liked that. Still seems like it could have some more power. Also today I had the truck running and disconected the MAF and there was no change in the engine at all. When I connected it back the engine stumbled and just about died, but then came back. I looked at the MAF and it looks real dirty. I don't know weather to clean it or just get a new one. As for the DPI issue, I didn't have time today to deal with it, but when I left class today, after being on the HWY noticed the miss feeling when i stopped at my exit. will look into it further this weekend
 
go buy some MAF cleaner and some torx saftey bits and clean the MAF sensor. I'll bet the dirty MAF was the reson for the o2 sensor code as well.

as for code 223- i'd start by checking the coil packs, and having the ICM checked at a local parts store.
 
I would like to thank you all for the advice.

Today, I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, and then I cleaned the throtle body and the EGR valve. EGR passage through the intake manifold was a complete restriction, I had to use a long drill bit to push the build-up out of there. threw on some new gaskets and put it all back together. The stumble on acceleration is gone, and it seemed to run a little bit better, but it still feels like it has that miss in it at idle, and at top RPM's like in first just seems like the engine is really working hard, but the output to the wheels don't seem to match. Going to take it to the locally owned exhaust place down the street to have the cat checked out. Also will take the ICM to the parts store tomorrow. I did take the ICM off today and cleaned the screws up. Also noticed that my negative battery cable needs to be replaced.
 
Ok so today, I had the ICM tested, it checked out good on 5 tests. tomorrow will take my coils in for testing. Also tested the fuel pressure, here are the results. After I got it connected I turned the key on engine off, didn't get much of a reading, so i turned it off and on again and it started to climb a little bit, so i continued to turn it off and on till I got to 40 which was as high as it would go, that took 6-8 times....is that normal? then I started the engine when the pressure was at 40 PSI, it then dropped down to about 31 or so and steady while climbing RPM's. Could someone tell me what I should be expecting from my fuel pressure tests please?
 
Ok I just had the coils tested, and they are in specs, also the fuel pressure is good as well. Not sure what else is the issue. I feel like I am jusdt talking to myself here.....is there anyone here with some other advice?
 
the fuel pump should prime to 40 psi the first time you turn the key, but it's within specs when running. when was the last time you changed the fuel filter?
 
I changed the fuel filter the day I stated this thread on the 19th. The fuel was kinda slight brown color, but I wasn't too worried about that. I just put some zip ties on my throttle cable, I noticed there was some slack, but didn't make a difference, just able to get to WOT now. I kinda thought it should prime up to 40 at the first try too, but I read in a few places that you have to do that, so not really sure if its normal or not. I'm almost at my wits end here....I think I will replace the fuel pump, because I already have to change out that fuel filler neck, GRRRRR. speaking of...GrRRRR is the sound my fuel pump makes when it primes before start, instead of a nice bzzzzzzz, like all my other fords.
 
Well I am going to take the ICM back to get tested again, I did some reading last night and noticed alot of people said that they had theirs tested like 7-8 times before it showed fail. When I had mine tested, they only did it 4 times, and the unit was not hot...just slightly warm. I am notice my truck getting worse when its hot. I think this is the issue so we will see....
 

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